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M1-S & CP-C1 misaligned...

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  • M1-S & CP-C1 misaligned...

    Hi all,

    For a while I’ve thought my 5D2 wasn’t sitting true on my M1-S with CP-C1….it’s difficult to show in a photo, but to my eyes the CP-C1 isn’t sitting flat against the underside of the camera. I’ve even removed the 4 rubberised anti-twist pads thinking it could be those.





    Has anyone else had this problem? If this is the case, would this angle off true on this axis have any effect on the NPP settings?

    Stu

  • #2
    There is definitively something not correct here ! May you post a picture of your camera under ? without plate attached ! It might be due to plastic that is under the camera not being completely flat or slightly curved !
    Retired Nodal Ninja Distributor
    Blog: http://www.skivr.com

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    • #3
      Is the anti-twist pin preventing the plate to be mounted flat?

      Nick
      Fanotec
      We listen. We try harder.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by nick fan View Post
        Is the anti-twist pin preventing the plate to be mounted flat?

        Nick
        Hi Nick,

        That was the first thing I tried removing the anti-twist pin thinking it was that not making the plate to sit flat.....

        Stu

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        • #5
          As far as I can make out, the bottom is absolutely flat and level:




          I even shaved off 2 small "lugs" that I thought were causing the problem:



          I tried again without the anti-twist pin, but the gap remains:



          If I can't cure this, I'll have to go back to my NN4 or RS-2.....but want to stick with the M1-S as is the more "precision" of the set ups I have and I can leave the rig mount on when using the R1 / R10 for pole work because, of course, the lens ring moves 90 degrees for mounting on the RS-2.

          This is the first problem I have ever encountered with a NN product - and boy, have I tried / own them all: NN3, NN4, NN5, R1, R10, RS-2, M1-S!

          Any other suggestions? Could it perhaps be the mounting screw on the camera itself?

          Stu

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          • #6
            not sure of the source of issue based on the info till now. This could be due to the tripod socket is too shallow or the screw of camera plate being too long. Put a cardboard of about 0.5mm think between the camera and plate to see if it is flat. then we can find out the reason. For this issue, please use email for support. my e mail is nick"at"fanotec"dot""com.

            Nick
            Fanotec
            We listen. We try harder.

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            • #7
              it seems an issue with cameras. I measured the angle between the lens mount and the base of my 5DII and 7D. 5DII is tilted by 0.3 deg and 7D is tilted by 0.7 deg.
              It is generally assumed the base is orthogonal to the lens mount and hence lens axis. This is NOT true!
              Thx for bring this to my attention. It means a camera plate for panoramic head will need to compensate for this tilt, at least for some Canon cameras.

              Nick
              Fanotec
              We listen. We try harder.

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              • #8
                The misalignment is not an issue as long as the camera is in the exact same spot each and every time you remove/replace your camera. This is why you need to know how to calibrate your rig and not rely on published numbers. Published numbers are a good place to start, but are not the end. If your camera moves around each time you take it off, then there is an issue. This example also shows why you cannot rely on pointing the camera straight down in order to set the lower rail. Calibrate your rig, go out and shoot some panos and share your results here. If the misalignment is not acceptable to you, switch over to a lens mount system. I switched all my pano gear over to the lens mount system many years ago and have not looked back.

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                • #9
                  Forgot to add: The center line of the camera does not need to be parallel to the vertical arm. As long as the NPP is directly over the center of the lower rotator, you should be fine. Remember that the purpose of a pano head is to rotate the lens around the NPP no matter the orientation of the camera to the pano head, not to hold the camera plumb and square to the pano head arms.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DennisS View Post
                    The misalignment is not an issue as long as the camera is in the exact same spot each and every time you remove/replace your camera. This is why you need to know how to calibrate your rig and not rely on published numbers. Published numbers are a good place to start, but are not the end. If your camera moves around each time you take it off, then there is an issue. This example also shows why you cannot rely on pointing the camera straight down in order to set the lower rail. Calibrate your rig, go out and shoot some panos and share your results here. If the misalignment is not acceptable to you, switch over to a lens mount system. I switched all my pano gear over to the lens mount system many years ago and have not looked back.
                    The camera is in the exact same spot every time - as it is mounted to an M1-S using a CP-C1 plate...! And I know how to calibrate my rig and get within 0.5mm, and don't reply upon "published" numbers ever. This thread was never about calibration, more about the fact that I'd just expected the camera to be square and plumb on all axis to the pano head, that's all...

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                    • #11
                      As long as the camera is mounted securely, goes back in the same spot every time and you are getting good panoramas, no need to worry about the gap.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DennisS View Post
                        As long as the camera is mounted securely, goes back in the same spot every time and you are getting good panoramas, no need to worry about the gap.
                        I am surprised the camera base is not square to the lens mount. This can be an issue if the lenses one use differs a lot in length. It is generally accepted the NPP is perfect for a error of 0.5mm.
                        For my 5DII, the tilt is 0.3 deg. That means a difference of 95mm on the upper rail will cause a change of 0.5mm on the lower rail NPP setting.
                        For my 7D, the tilt is 0.7 deg. That means a difference of 40mm on the upper rail will cause a change of 0.5mm on the lower rail NPP setting.

                        Nick
                        Fanotec
                        We listen. We try harder.

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