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R20 w/ Tokina 10-17mm lens ring - rail setting

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  • R20 w/ Tokina 10-17mm lens ring - rail setting

    hi all. I have a travel writer / photographer client who wants to capture 360s on a trip to Lapland next month - and wants me to process / publish for him. He already owns a Canon 6D so I've recommended he buy a Tokina 10-17mm and R20 kit: https://shop.nodalninja.com/r20-2-5-...otator-f6171v/. Can someone tell me whether the rail settings for the R20 will be the same as for my set up of the same lens but on a R10 - i.e. 16mm?

  • #2
    The differences in rail settings are detailed on this page (halfway down): https://shop.nodalninja.com/r20-7-5-...te-pkg-f6177v/

    John

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    • #3
      Hello Stalwart,
      If your client buys the same lens as you (i.e. 16mm) then the settings would be the same as they are governed by the NPP (No Parallax Point) of the lens and the lens ring would be the same.
      The choice or R10 or R20 makes no difference.
      If your client buys the lens you have advised then it is likely that the setting will be different, but not by very much, so if the subject is more than say a couple of meters from the camera then a couple of mm on the rail should not be significant so using your settings would be a good starting point, but I would suggest some experimental 360s at a few different settings before setting off to Lapland.
      I am interested in why you recommended a zoom lens as the setting on the rail will probably change for different focal lengths and having a fixed focal length would be less to think about when taking the panoramas.
      Hope this helps, Hugh.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by John Houghton View Post
        The differences in rail settings are detailed on this page (halfway down): https://shop.nodalninja.com/r20-7-5-...te-pkg-f6177v/

        John
        Thank you, as usual, John - didn't see that explanation from NN on the website... Stu

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Hugh View Post
          Hello Stalwart,
          If your client buys the same lens as you (i.e. 16mm) then the settings would be the same as they are governed by the NPP (No Parallax Point) of the lens and the lens ring would be the same.
          The choice or R10 or R20 makes no difference.
          If your client buys the lens you have advised then it is likely that the setting will be different, but not by very much, so if the subject is more than say a couple of meters from the camera then a couple of mm on the rail should not be significant so using your settings would be a good starting point, but I would suggest some experimental 360s at a few different settings before setting off to Lapland.
          I am interested in why you recommended a zoom lens as the setting on the rail will probably change for different focal lengths and having a fixed focal length would be less to think about when taking the panoramas.
          Hope this helps, Hugh.
          Hi Hugh,
          I tape down the zoom lens at 12mm - optimal for shooting on FF. AFAIK, none of the major lens manufacturers make a prime 12mm. I do use a Sigma 15mm, but that requires 6 shots around + zenith, whereas at 12mm I can shoot 4 round @ +7.5 degrees and no need for a separate zenith shot.....
          Stuart

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          • #6
            Thank you Stuart,
            Yes, that makes sense to me, especially the taping of the lens at 12mm.
            I would suspect the the NNP for a 12mm lens would be closer to the front of the lens than for a 16mm lens so I would suggest taking a set of five panoramas starting at the setting the same as you use, then moving the lens back 2 mm at a time and seeing what the Control Point Distances are when Optimising the images.

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