With an RS-1/D800/16mm/nadir adapter, I've been trying 6 shots around at 90 degrees, 1 nadir and 1 zenith at -90 and +90 respectively but I'm less than satisfied with the results. that pattern requires lots of photoshop on the nadir and it's sometimes a struggle to stitch the zenith because there's not much there besides sky. I've tried 6 shots around at -30 and 6 at +30 with one nadir and it stitches much better, but that many shots seems inefficient to me. It also requires better masking tools than the ones in the current version of autopano.
Can anyone suggest other shooting patterns that might work better?
In place of shooting the zenith at +90° with only blue sky around you could shoot 2x +60° 180° visa versa. You could also try to shoot around at +7,5° pitch to close the zenith by the shots around. Then you need to take the Nadir1 and Nadir2 shots by use of the NN3,NN4,NN5 Nadir Adapter. Or do a handheld or any other way to take the Nadir Shots. You have to test it.
There is no sense in taking shots at + - 30° to do your job.
I've tried 6 shots around at -30 and 6 at +30 with one nadir and it stitches much better, but that many shots seems inefficient to me.
That shooting pattern can work well outdoors in windy conditions when there are clouds moving rapidly overhead. By shooting the upper row as quickly as possible, you can capture a reasonably coherent view of the complete sky. Smartblend can usually sort out any minor blending problems. Other shooting patterns can introduce fatal delays in capturing different parts of the sky that may cause severe alignment difficulties when you come to do the stitch. I have one panorama that has so far resisted all my attempts to get an acceptable result due to such problems. Wholesale substitution of the sky can often be the only solution, but is not always practical. Blue skies are considerably less troublesome - at least when stitching with PTGui. With that, you can easily position all the images according to their known nominal shooting angles, and control points are then only needed to fine tune the alignment of the images with each other. The slightly imperfect alignment of blue sky images without features for control points is of no consequence and they should blend in perfectly smoothly.
I will send a set as soon as I have the opportunity to test - thank you.
Still not quite grasping your meaning on Nadir1 and Nadir2, though.
Since the Nadir adapter opens clockwise, I would call the four possible positions 0deg(closed), 90deg (first stop), 180deg(second stop - opposite of closed), 270deg (last stop). So, if I'm shooting 2 Nadir shots, and one of them is 180deg(second stop - opposite of closed), what's the other?
The positions you use to shoot the nadir2 is the 180° Position.
Workflow: you shoot your 6 shots around, now 1 click further to get to the starting point. Now move up to shoot the zenith @+90°. Then move down to Nadir1 @-90°. Now move your tripod side ways by min DPD = Double pivot distance. Open up the Nadir Adapter to opposite side of third leg and shoot Nadir2. That's it.
Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-15-2013 at 07:32 AM.
I am in a similar boat. We just got the NN4/RD16 with Nadir adapter yesterday and I am just about ready to head out to take my 1st panos with it :)
Thanks for posting this question which helps me out and thanks to the replies which help alot :)
That pictorial really helped me to understand what one should do.
For anyone that may be interested, FoCal calibration software says that the sharpest aperture for (at least my copy of) the Nikkor 16mm is f8, not 5.6 as I had read elsewhere. Your mileage may vary of course.
One addition - the touchups I was having to do were to remove the remains of the tripod legs from the shot.I've found that if after shooting Nadir0, I pick the tripod up, rotate the legs 60 degrees and shoot a second nadir 0, I no longer have any retouching to do.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but.....if the tripod was set up with the single leg to the left, shoot the nadir, rotate on the adapter, shoot nadir2, then no touch-ups would be needed.....or have I got that wrong?
I've just purchased a 16mm Nikon and thinking of buying this lighter set up and using my M1-L for my 14-24mm (D800)... or is there a lens clampr available to add to this set-up?