That sounds very interesting to me - what would such a service cost?Originally Posted by nick fan
 |
|
That sounds very interesting to me - what would such a service cost?
I dont think 20mm is enough. Why just made the clamp 10 or 20mm longer to one side?
Tobias Vollmer modified my ring to use AF/M and Distance-Scale even if the ring is mounted:
I planned to extend the cutouts 90° rotated so the ring will fit my pole (lens ring plate below) and also the RS-2 (lens ring plate on the right side). If i use a longer lens ring plate it will be visible all the time i shoot panoramas with my pole.
When do you ship the RS-2 to other resellers (thaler-design in austria or pano-store in germany? Red Door's shipping to germany costs 122 US$ (), thats 10 times more than insured shipping from germany to uk would cost
$9.95. But it can take a while (2 weeks).
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
We are using mostly existing parts to build RS1 and RS2. If longer adjustment is needed, changing rail from existing models will be easier.I dont think 20mm is enough. Why just made the clamp 10 or 20mm longer to one side?
When do you ship the RS-2 to other resellers (thaler-design in austria or pano-store in germany? Red Door's shipping to germany costs 122 US$ (
You can ask thaler-design to pre-order one for you. Price is slightly cheaper than NN4 equivalent.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
I just received a set of stop plates from Bill Bailey, and I seem to have a clearance issue. There's only enough clearance on the lens ring plate for half of the stop plate. As you can see, this causes it to go out of alignment when tightened down.
Nick - if your integrated stop plate would solve this, please let me know how to get that process started. I'm using a Nikkor 16mm, and the setting that I need is 2.4.
When will the RS2 be in stock at my local retailer. I dont want to preorder a prototype.
We have semi universal integrated stop plate. It should work. I will check it out and let you know. I can offer you a free unit.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
if you want RS2 with RD16II, you can get one now. For RS2 with default basic rotator, you need to wait for end of this month.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
For me, on the Canon 8/15, LPP puts the clamp at closer to 15mm than 20mm of contact (for 6 clicks), I would very much like to acquire a longer plate for the lens ring. I've been thinking about extending my pole with a lower unit, but the the thin connection with the RS-1 has made me hesitant.
The plate used for Canon 8-15mm is LRP45X that extends 35mm to the front and 10mm to the back. You can change to LRP45 or LRP50 to get extra length of 10-15mm to the front. Not sure if they will interfere with the lens hood or cap. I don't have the lens with me. In which direction do you need more space?
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Hi Mosley,
Found a ready solution for you. Using our semi-universal LRP stop plate with plastic blocks with a total length of 20mm will give you fixed LRP reading of 2.4.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Based on Thoby's calculations and my own experimentation, the LPP for six shots seems to be about on the lens hood stop ridge that is far forward of the red ring. On the U-R1, this gives me a solid connection with between 20mm and 25mm of contact depending on tilt. However on the RS-1 this places the plate so far back in the clamp that only a little over 15mm is in contact. This puts the vertical arm and clamp in the shot, but just outside the crop(and well outside most stitches on 6 shots), so it works fine other than me being nervous about dropping my cam over a waterfall or stairwell if the connection slips. I don't want the plate to be so large that it ends up in the field of view as I sometimes need to shoot full circles stills with the ring still on. Another 10mm forward of the ring mount would be about the max that would not protrude into the FOV at 180°
On a side note, I've found a workaround for the lack of access to the AF on/off and range markings created by the ring mount. I keep the lens in autofocus, and just use back focus only when shooting pano. (and regular autofocus when using the lens for anything else) I tap the back focus once at a 1.8m away target for hyperfocal, or any closer target if I'm shooting in tight quarters. This works a treat as long as I don't accidentally bump the back focus button without noticing when rotating for zenith.
*** edited to add link***
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resou..._article.shtml
Last edited by c0g null; 05-13-2013 at 08:50 PM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
