I've been using the R1 for a couple days now on my D800 and shaved 10.5. I'm really happy with the results for the most part. I'm getting great spherical panoramas with no stitching issues, but I need to get rid of the tripod in the shot. What's the best way to do this with my setup? I'm currently using PTGUI.
When the ground beneath the tripod is relatively plain, you can often simply clone out the tripod using Photoshop. It's best to extract a rectilinear view of the nadir area from the stitched equirectangular panorama to facilitate this. The easiest way is to generate 6 cube faces using a program such as Pano2VR or Pano2QTVR, edit the nadir face, and reassemble the cube faces back into an equirectangular image. Or you can use the Photoshop plugin by Rune Spaans: http://www.superrune.com/technical/s...eretocubic.php .
To replicate the true surface at the nadir, you need to take a shot of the nadir area with the tripod shifted out of the way and the camera at or close to its original position. This can be done in a variety of ways. Outdoors, you can simply hand hold the camera pointing down with outstretched arms (on or off the tripod). Indoors where the poor light levels dictate relatively long exposures, you need to use the tripod. If you release the tilt knob of the R1, you can tilt the camera down to its maximum extent. Then lean the tripod forwards with your foot on the bottom of the (lengthened) rear leg to prevent it toppling over, as illustrated in this article: http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/technical6.html . An easier solution is to use the Nodal Ninja nadir/zenith adapter: http://shop.nodalninja.com/ultimate-...adapter-f6112/ .
The nadir image should be stitched into the panorama using viewpoint correction (PTGUI Pro only). This corrects perspective differences in the nadir shot that arise from not positioning the camera precisely with the original no-parallax point. While viewpoint correction will work accurately even for quite large displacements of the camera, it's best to get the camera reasonably close to the original position whenever possible. See these tutorials: http://www.ptgui.com/examples/vptutorial.html http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgvpt.htm
Thanks for your reply. I'm still having issues with this though. My panoramics are coming out great, except for the ugly tripod in it! Do you think it could be a problem of the floor not having distinguishable control points. Some of the shots I've had problems with were laminate floors that are very plain. Do you think the Nadir adapter would help?
It's not quite clear what the problem is that you are having. The nadir adapter might help, but you still need control points to align the nadir image - assigned manually, if necessary. If the floor appears lacking suitable features for control points, you can sometimes find small spots (dust, scratches etc.) that are visible when zoomed right in. Otherwise, you can scatter some temporary features around the nadir - e.g. five or six small coins or adhesive spots. These can be cloned away from the final stitched panorama image. If you cannot get the nadir properly stitched, upload a set of (jpeg) images somewhere, and I and no doubt others will take a look. You can use a free file sharing site such as http://www.ge.tt/ if you don't have your own private web space.
Thanks John. I'm not sure if the problem is me being unfamiliar with PTGUI Pro, or if I did something wrong when taking the pictures. Here's a link to one of the panoramics I did that I'm having stitching issues with. Again, thank you for your help.
So what you have to do is to reset the old NPP to the whole system before shooting the Nadir shot. So you have to raise your center column and shift it sideways to take your nadir shot.
Would be easier to take a handheld shot or move aside with the tripod, use R1 built in Nadir Shot Position. So place a coin below your tripod, move the R1 forward till it touches the the flat surface. Now move the tripod backwards till you can focus to the coin and shoot your Nadir Image. For this method you have to use the Full Viewpoint Correction described in PTGui.
In case you are not using a pole might be a good idea to have a look to the Compartment "Custom Heads" to see the R1-S. Of course it is a little bit bigger, smaller than NN3, but has the opportunity to shoot Zenith and Nadir1 and Nadir2 Shots in NPP with Nadir Adapter.
Does your tutorial http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgvpt.htm include the use of the Nodal Ninja Nadir Adapter? I just ordered the adapter and plan to run some tests in the next few days. After taking the two Nadir shots - Nadir1 and then Nadir 2 (after moving Double Pivot Point Distance) do I load both images into PTGUI Pro and mask out the tripod and then stitch?
I guess I am looking for a step by step work flow. I will be using six images using the Bower 8mm mounted on a Pentax K-3, NN6 RB16. Then I take one vertical Zenith shot and two Nadir shots, the second taken after switching the NN Nadir Adapter and moving the tripod DPD.
What I would appreciate is the steps in PTGUI for loading the 9 images. I was thinking of loading them in and masking the tripod that would appear in the two Nadir images - is that all I need to do?
In production I will be using HDR taking 5 shot sequences in a cathedral using 2 EV steps. In the past I have just loaded all the images into PTGUI and let PTGUI do the stitching and HDR. The I take the HDR file and render it using NIK HDR Efex Pro. My question is: Should I take the 5 stitched panos generated by PTGUI as an option and then have NIK HDR EFEX PRO do the merge as well as the rendering.
Thanks for all you help John.
The tutorial doesn't specifically refer to the nadir adapter. All the images that are shot with the camera in the NPP position can be stitched together. Any images shot from an offset position can be then be added and optimized separately into position. Any images shot from a position only very slightly offset should stitch ok with the others but maybe switch on the viewpoint correction for that image to fine tune the optimization at the end. If you are optimizing with full manual control via the optimizer's advanced tab, all the images can be added at the outset but selectively included in the optimization by using the check boxes in the "Use control points of.." list.