Need guidance which way do I turn - heavy Parallaxing with camera combination?
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Thread: Need guidance which way do I turn - heavy Parallaxing with camera combination?

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  1. Need guidance which way do I turn - heavy Parallaxing with camera combination?

    #1

    So for the last 3 day's I've search this form & spent countless hours trying to get the setting correct for this combination of len & Camera Canon 7D with 17-55mm 2.8 EF-S

    reading the form & with my own testing the lower arm is set between 56-58mm
    upper arm is where I'm having the issues. no matter where I set it I always get the same results

    upper arm set at 60mm


    upper arm set at 90mm


    upper arm set at 120mm


    panoramic software I used was Hugin

    is there any other adjustment I can try?


    ...Bob
  2. #2

    Quote Originally Posted by BobWild View Post
    upper arm is where I'm having the issues. no matter where I set it I always get the same results
    Bob, I see clear differences between the three panoramas. The 60mm and 120mm images both show stitching errors whereas the 90mm version looks clean. To check for parallax problems, arrange to have something like a pole or lamp stand really close to the camera, sited in the middle of an overlap area and seen against a distant background containing features that enable parallax shift to be readily detected.

    John
  3. #3

    yes I agree that there are stitching errors but the item that has been bothering me the most is that not everything is square or as the eye would see. The upper beam in the room is bowed out in all 3 images but in real life they are and should be square to the camera.

    As I look at the wall/ceiling above the door it would appear to be horizontal/straight in the picture but the beam which should also be level/straight is not it's bowed out.


    suggestions on how to correct the bowing in the image?
  4. #4

    Bob, The bowing is a natural consequence of the choice of equirectangular projection when you rendered the panorama. Only in rectilinear projection are all straight line features preserved, but then you are restricted in the angle of view to around 120 degrees, above which you get increasing degrees of stretching at the edges. See http://wiki.panotools.org/Projections .
    .
    John
  5. #5
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Hi Bob and welcome to the forum.

    http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database

    There you can find data for your combination. Use this as a "Pre Set". You have to test them with your own equipment.

    LRS = Lower rail setting is H + 13mm for offset of reference point of Nodal Ninja NN4 vertical arm: 42 + 13 = LRS = 55mm

    URS = Upper Rail Setting is L1 37.5 + L2 @zoom 17 71.0 = 108,5mm for URS.

    @zoom 17 you need 10 shots around: 36° detend plunger setting. To test your reference point use the 18° detend plunger setting. The reference point has to be set straight forward in the viewfinder. Take a set of pics with one click to the left, one straight forward, and one click to the right. Compare the pics in PS about moving of reference point.

    http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162

    http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

    In case of RP is moving with rotation direction for example to the right, you have to move forward on the upper rail. In case it moves against rotation direction, you have to go backwards. You can do a "Pre Test" in live view, a when you think you are close to the point, do it 1mm by 1mm.

    http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm

    http://www.vrwave.com

    The best way to test LRS is to use a hard paper 250gr round circle cut out with a diameter of 10cm. Hole of 8mm / 3/8" in the center and place it on top of tripod before you connect the NN4. Use f/22 for example, move down till you see the corner of the card and focus to it. Then take 10 shots around, import to PTGuiPro, and stitch. Use Mov file output, set parameters to 360 x 180, and stitch. In the mov file move down to the nadir. You should see a round circle. In case you see "teeth" coming out of it, you have to change LRS. In case it cuts to the right, move to the right by 1mm. In case it cuts to the left, move to the left. At the end there should be a set of three: let's say LRS is 55mm, 54mm should show a tooth cutting to the right and 56mm one cutting to the left.

    Success and feel free to ask.
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 02-03-2013 at 11:45 PM.
  6. #6

    thank to hindenhaag & John Houghton for the GREAT responses, and I do apologize for the late reply, I'd been taken down by some sort of virus (human not computer).
  7. #7

    So here's the final image or my latest attempt at using the NN4 still a little off on the stitching and the left wall is a little elongated. Thoughts?




    ....Bob
  8. #8
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Apr 2008
    Location: Hong Kong
    Posts: 2,475

    Bob,

    see this for illustration of the source of "problem" of your pano.
    http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...rojections.htm

    Nick



    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.
  9. #9
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Bob,

    You should send a set of pics with www.ge.tt for example to test your set up.

    Heinz

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