thanks for that good start !
hope to encounter people with exact settings.
Using other people's numbers is a very good place to start. Relying solely on those numbers without learning how to calibrate your rig is like shooting pictures on full auto mode 100% of the time, never learning to adjust your camera.
A pano head is one of the tools we use. You need to learn how to make adjustments in order to get the most out of it.
Once I was on a trip to Yosemite and found I had forgotten to pack the lens I always use. I had a second lens with me that would work, but I had never used it on my pano head before. Since I understood how to adjust my pano head, I was able to go through the calibration exercise and get the panorama. I did not have my laptop with me to do any test stitches. I relied on Live View. The resulting panorama turned out just fine. If I was not able to calibrate my rig "in the field" I would not have been able to take any panoramas from that trip.
Smooth's circle saw method, and John's methods to find upper rail settings.
It was often checked that just focussing down gives different results from Smooth's method. Using smooth's method, you end up with a stitched picture. That means, having stitched the pics PTGui has corrected "misalignements" of lens optics and very small sensor misplacement during production. That's why most of us use this method to find the lower rail setting.
Because I know of differences in camera lens combinations, I also advice newbies to check the own equipment. I also agree, that you have to be able to calibrate on your own.
To avoid frustration doing it completely on your own, I try to help you with starting set ups. I believe this brings you on the road as quick as possible. I know that everybody is willing to go out to shoot than to spend lot of time to calibrate. without succeeding.