Settings with 5DMK2 & Canon 8-15
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Thread: Settings with 5DMK2 & Canon 8-15

  1. #31

    so, I've setup my head & took 3 shots @ 0° every 45°.

    My original setup @ 12mm:,5.jpg

    After working around @ 12mm:

    The rail B:
  2. #32
  3. #33
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    Just use smooth's method because just focussing down does not help you:

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  4. #34

    first test for A rail with these values: 57; 58; 60 & 62

    with this, I'm not sure where to go...
  5. #35

    Eric, Could you please upload jpeg versions of the camera images used for the 58mm setting, say. It's possible there may be stitching issues.
  6. #36

    5 pictures here

    & added 55 & 65 just for the sake of it
    Last edited by ericthoreau; 04-05-2013 at 07:22 AM.
  7. #37

    Eric, My suspicions proved to be correct. The stitch of the 58mm images is fine and indicates a satisfactory setting:

    While there is nothing wring with Smooth's method, it does demand some experience with using PTGui and I would not recommend it for novices, as misleading results can be produced.
  8. #38

    John & Heinz, thank you for your help;

    so, to sum up:

    A: 58

    For rail B, should I start again or is the value founded previously (102) correct?

  9. #39

    Eric, I suggest you check for parallax at the 102 setting. Include something close to the camera (50cm) with something a long way away in the background that has sufficient detail such that you can see whether the near object changes position from one shot to the next. Take two shots exactly as you would for an actual panorama and set the near object in the middle of the overlap of the two images. So rotate the camera from -45° to +45° The near object can be anything you like - a pole or stick or a piece of sticky tape on a window that looks out onto a distant view. The object should be in the centre of the frame when the head is at 0°. You can use live view and magnify the image to judge the parallax shift visually, or you can take the shots and compare them in Photoshop, or stitch the shots to a layered PSD file and compare layers in Photoshop by switching the top layer on and off.

  10. #40
  11. #41

    Eric, I think 102mm looks better. They are easier to judge when you remove the fisheye distortion by stitching the pair of images and cropping out the area of interest as a rectilinear PSD layered file. (Put control points only on the background). Switching the upper layer on/off then reveals the parallax shift clearly. I did this as best I could using your crops:

    That looks very good to me.

  12. #42

    thank you John;

    the final sum up:
    With a Canon 5Dmk2, using a Canon 8-15 @ 12mm,

    4 shots at -10° + 1 zenith
    4 shots at 0° + 1 zenith + 1 nadir (and another one with the tripod slightly on the side)


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