I'm new to the world of panos and am trying to learn the ins and outs of using a pano head.
At this stage, I'm mainly interested in rectilinear panos (referred to as mosaics as far as I have gathered)
Anyone else using this setup who can confirm the compatibility with the NN3 RD3L 6-8-10 w/ leveler?
I'm using a D7k with a Tokina 11-16 ultra wide which I plan to shoot in portrait most of the time. I also have a 50mm and a 35mm and wonder what difference will it make using those primes instead of the wide angle.
NN3 RDL3 will work with D7000 and Tokina 11-16mm. It is not a favorite lens on this forum. I suppose there are not many responses from users. I have D7000 and NN3 MKII. For 11-16 you need 8 and 10 shots around. http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc_de.htm
To use your other lenses will set you into trouble to decide what you really want to do in future: 50mm needs 30 stops = 12º, 35mm needs 20 stops = 18º. The only rotator that does 18º stops is RD16. When you going to do more landscape with longer lenses you would anyway need a RD16 rotator.
Once you tested panos I am quite sure you will do sphericals as well. Your choice: You will stay with short wide angel or fisheye lenses go for RD3L. You will step over to other longer focal lenses too, go for RD16 + EZ-Leveller II. RD16 is upgradable up to M1-L.
Last question is about the money: price RD3L towards RD16 + EZ-Leveller II. Check the difference and think about the full price you have to pay in case you step over to RD16 combo because you are infected of pano virus and use other lenses later on.
Longer focal lenses will not ask more shots per row for example, but also more rows for spherical panos or even normal landscape. 50mm lens on DX body will ask 8 rows each with 30 stops. Takes more time but its nice to use it for higher resolution.
Last reading on NN3 upper rail is 106.5mm. In case the setting of 107.6 mm is right, you can buy a T-Adapter to reach it. Or step over to NN4 with longer rails.
Now back to serious comments: adding more weight and a sort bulky stuff does not make it nicer to carry it around. I just used one of my old "machine base plates" I do some tricks on. In case you grind or file off 2mm from the back side which stops the plate in the upper rail, you get your goal. Leaving a small rim to protect the cork, you can go as far as 108.5mm. Doing this you will loose your guarantee!! But I never ever had to ask for it since several years. I just took off the back in 5 min without not being very carefully to protect the sides because is an old "machined plate". This would be the easiest way for me to solve your problem.
Be sure to use the CP-2 Top Plate with the long nose and place to the back. Top- Base Plate assembly has to show they short side of base plate to the back too. 2 : 1 division by the white mark.
In case of NN3 I would stay with CP-2 without quick release. To get an "over-all" quick release system for your tripod etc, you should use an arca style system. Have a look to M1 System with it's clamps and new camera plates. With this you can build up an "over-all'. Leave the plate on your camera and you can fix it to any other arca style clamp like Kirk, RRS etc. But once you have adapted the CP-2 camera plate and fixed the small silver screw that you can not slide the top plate, you can easily take off and re fix the CP-2. It will automatically sit rectangular in it's place.
Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-31-2012 at 06:05 AM.