Upper rail settings with D800

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  1. Upper rail settings with D800

    #1
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Apr 2011
    Location: Baltimore, Maryland, USA
    Posts: 58

    Just experienced something wierd - I went through finding the upper rail lens settings for Nikon's 14-24, 24-70, 70-200, 70-300 and 80-400 on my new D800. I used each mm setting on each lens, a total 27 setting checks. I used Live View and aligned on two objects - one near, one far. When necessary I magnified the image in the LCD. I moved the camera from side to side viewing the relationship of the obejcts at the left and right edges of the LCD to verify there was no change in that relatioinship; I went from side to side more than once each time. The upper rail setting of 14.2 was the same for all lenses and mm's. Somehow this just doesn't seem right but I am confident I did it right. Greatly appreciate any comments; I know I have to make some panoramas to see if there are any parallex errors but thought I'd ask before going through the exercise of making 27 panoramas.
  2. #2
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,733

    Hi Bob,

    I cannot believe this is true.

    I have tested 14-24, 24-70, 70-200, and a lot of other lenses on different bodies, specially on D3 and D700. They did not have the same entrance pupil and same URS. Live view is a first step to come close to the right setting. But to be sure, I use a shot straight forward, then move to the right for example, import into PS, and compare the reference point position in PS. Turning clockwise and the reference point moves to the opposite direction, you have to move forward on the upper rail. In case your reference point follows your moving direction but does not stand still, move backwards.

    Plus: some lenses like 70-200 or 18-200 make "problems" close to zoom settings @105 for example. On NN5 you had to turn over the upper rail forward to get the right URS. Sometimes NPP is behind the sensor. Strange but this often happens. You will find the sensor mark on top of your camera body. So do not be afraid of moving the camera forward behind the turning point of the upper rotator from viewpoint view. Sometimes NPP is directly on the rotator and you can not reach this point with NN3 - NN4/5. Happy to use an M1.

    Specially 14-24 was tricky to find the right settings. You might contact Vincen at www.skivr, but I am quite sure he reads this thread and answers. He owns a D800 and shoots with 14-24 et al.

    John's advice to be sure about the URS is to place the reference points in the area of overlap and stitch a pano. Correct John? Do I remember well?

    Longer focal lenses need much room to test NPP for URS. The reference points have to be placed in longer distances to the tripod. Specially the second one.

    I personally do my first check up inside with a special created reference device with a rectilinear gap and use a red yellow board as second reference. I use clockwise and counterclockwise movements to find URS. Often you find clockwise movement is ok, but counterclockwise moves. I adapt URS till both are in same place. Controlled in layered PS shots.

    Plus, sorry to ask about it, did you check your LRS with Smooth's method? Before I go out shooting Panos, as a hobby not to earn my living, I try to be sure about my settings.

    You know about focussing problems of D800? Seems to be that the sensor of D800 does not focus regularly. As far as I understood all Nikon Rumors comments, there might a problem with the sensor with different focussing from left to right. Might be you should contact Nikon Pro Service to check your body. Camera body of course..they use a software to adapt the different focussing infos of the sensor and correct this problem.

    Vincen has send us a lot of glamorous panos with D3 and 14-24, but did not feel to be confident with his first D800 Panos compared with the same lens. They seemed not to be very sharp. I was disappointed too. A very short depth of field to get an unsharp pic further away.

    Hope this helps a little bit, feel free to ask, may be you get some answer from the lucky D800 owners.

    Before I would step out to shoot this amount of panos, I really would try to be sure about LRS and URS for each lens and zoom setting. Because a different zoom setting will change URS as well.

    Plus to all of us: check the highest ISO without noise with every single lens. This will help us to raise ISO at the sight to get shorter shutter speed to avoid ghosts for example or moving waves or trees, cars and people in busy places.

    Success,
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-29-2012 at 10:31 AM.
  3. #3

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    John's advice to be sure about the URS is to place the reference points in the area of overlap and stitch a pano. Correct John? Do I remember well?
    Heinz, Yes, you remember it well. I would recommend having the two reference objects as far apart as possible. Use something near to infinity at the rear - remember that two objects in your room are BOTH subject to parallax effects. The near object can be quite close and out of focus even at f/22 or f/32. By stitching together two images with control points only on the background, you will still be able to discern the parallax shift of the near fuzzy object against the sharp background when you switch between the images in a layered output PSD file in Photoshop.

    John
  4. #4
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,733

    Thx John,

    I was quite sure you were watching in the background as you do in different forums. Thx again for all your basic advice to all of us.

    Do we meet you in The Hague in two weeks time at the meeting?

    Would be really great to meet you personally.

    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-29-2012 at 10:40 AM.
  5. #5

    Heinz, No, I'm afraid I shall not be seeing you in at the PanoTools meeting. It would have been delightful to meet you, Bill and Nick but it's not to be. And no T-shirt for me this year!
    John
  6. #6
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Apr 2011
    Location: Baltimore, Maryland, USA
    Posts: 58

    John, Heniz
    I also have a hard time believing what my eyes saw - that's why I asked.
    My object was two upright metal clothes poles - the closest being black at 66 feet from me. The second being silver at 72 feet from me. I positioned so that approximately 1/2 of the back, silver pole appeared to the right of the front, black pole, the other half hidden behind the front pole. I was in Live View and I magnified the image so that it was large enough to see comfortably. I focused on the front pole. D800 focus issues, which I understood to have affected only the left, - I have the latest firmware upgrade which is supposed to have corrected that; in addition just got it back from Nikon because the Mirror Lock Up was not functioning - my dealer also specified a general check up to be made.
    When I did these I did not shoot any images. What I think I'll do is to make a panorama at the minimum and maximun mm for each lens - two rows of three images each down the row of the back yards in my neighborhood - that way I have both near and far objects - does this seem a reasonable test to you? Given I've got it wrong, parralex errors in the stitching should show up.
    And thanks, I really appreciate your thoughts
    Bob
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