I am new here, so thanks for reading and hopefully sorting out
I am looking at getting a Nodal Ninja NN3 MK II will my Nikon D7000 along with the Sigma 10-20 be okay for this set up, and if so just so that I do not have to check back again what would my settings be.
In this database you can find the data you can use for settings. LRS = Lower Rail Setting is H + offset of NN3 vertical rail mark from CP-2 Position. H = 43 + 13 = LRS 56. This is also what I found with my equipment. URS = Upper Rail Setting: L1 = 40 for D7000 + L2: @zoom 10: 62, @zoom 14: 64, @zoom 20: 68. URS sigma 10-20 /Nikon D7000 : zoom 10 = 102mm, zoom 14 = 104mm, zoom 20 = 108mm.
Most of the lenses are Nikon ones. Use "Entrance Pupil" as "NPP". A negative result means the NPP lies behind the sensor. Just study this table. Different lenses at different zoom settings. And the change of NPP to it. This will help you to find settings on your own. Begin at the front of the lens and work backwards. Try to use red or golden rings of the lenses to begin with.
Using the Nadir Adapter on NN3, you have to reduce the LRS = Lower Rail Setting by 6mm. 61mm > 55mm.
I have learned a lot from my colleagues: John, Hugh, Michel Thoby, Smooth, etc. And I follow forums. And I play around with Nodal Ninja and Nikon Equipment to try to get you on the road as soon as possible with less frustration specially in the beginning.
I tend to take more images than most as I like a good overlap so that the software (e.g. PTGui) can generate lots of Control Points, so my suggestions tend to be more shots round than most of the tables recommend. My philosophy is that I have taken the trouble to get to the site with my gear and a few extra shots is not going to take much longer or much longer to process. My recommendations for 10mm and 20mm "normal" lenses is at: http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Sp...ormal-Lens.htm
When your Nodal Ninja arrives it needs some assembly and setting up. I suggest that you start with an 8 (45°) detent ring and experiment at the 10mm end of the lens as this will give you less images to take and process. The important thing is to set it up so that the vertical axis of rotation passes through the centre of the lens when viewed from the front. I do this by eye (sometimes with some sort of makeshift plumb bob) and if you do this with a light source (e.g. window) behind the view finder, the centre of the lens appears as a bright dot of light. Also, that the vertical axis of rotation passes through the NNP when viewed from the side.
Sigma makes two 10-20mm lenses and my data is for the f4-5.6 EX DC HSM lens. If this is the same as yours then the NNP is 6mm back towards the camera from the gold ring for the 10mm setting and on the gold ring if using it at 20mm.
It depends on what you are making the panos for, but I would suggest that using the lens at 10mm will give you all the resolution you need to start with.
The advice from Heinz is always good and I see he has mentioned using a T Adaptor to use the D7000 at the 20mm end of the zoom. From looking at the Internet it would seem that the D7000 is a little smaller than my D300. From what I can gauge with images from the Internet, the 1/4" fixing thread is a millimeter or two closer to the lens flange and the lens centre a millimeter of two closer to the base plate so you may be able to get good panoramas by having the camera right at the back of the top rail with the lens at 20mm.
Although it is the generally accepted that it is important to get the lens so the NNP is exactly at the centre of the sphere of rotation I have found that it can sometimes be a matter of scale. If you are taking panos of small space, such as inside a car, then it is important that the camera is set up as accurately as possible, but if the subject matter is a least several meters away then the odd mm along the top rail may not be important. This is the case when shooting landscape panoramas hand held as described at: http://www.hugha.co.uk/Panoramas/PanoramasCreate.htm I cannot get my D300 back far enough along the top rail with the lens set at 20mm so that the gold ring lines up with the axis of rotation, so will set it up and have a look to see what the results are like when I have some time to play.
There are three dimensions that govern the settings: One on the lens - the distance from the lens flange to the NNP, which is fixed for any given lens irrespective of camera body; Two on the camera - the horizontal distance from the lens flange to the 1/4" thread and the vertical distance from the base plate to the central axis of the lens, which varies from body to body. If there was a table for the two camera dimensions it would be easy to set up a body and lens and calculate the settings for a different body and same lens, but I asked Nikon if they had this data and was told they do not, but thought it might be a good idea for the future! I have started a new thread for this topic.
Thanks very much everyone for all your help, someone in passing told me that at 10mm the 10-20mm might have difficulties in stitching the frames, so was thinking of using my 24-70 sigma instead. So my next question and sorry to bother you, could you please give me my upper rail setting for the 24-70mm set at 24mm only.
The Sigma 24-70mm is 1:2.8 EX DG
Thank you, you are very kind.
Last edited by BestLightImages; 03-15-2012 at 02:17 AM.
Reason: added lens type