M1L + Nikon D300 + Nikon 10.5 + Nadir adapter = HELP!
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Thread: M1L + Nikon D300 + Nikon 10.5 + Nadir adapter = HELP!

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  1. M1L + Nikon D300 + Nikon 10.5 + Nadir adapter = HELP!

    #1
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    So I unpack and set up my brand new M1L. I am using a Nikon D300 and a Nikon 10.5 lens. I get the rig calibrated and start shooting. When I take a look at the Nadir patch shot, I am disappointed to see the knob on the lower rotator clamp sticking way out into the picture. The knob overlaps the tripod leg in the patch shot rendering the patch shot not useable. It does not matter which way I put the clamp on the rotator. The knob sticks out way too far. I had to fabricate a low profile knob in order to get a useable Nadir patch shot.

    I am shooting 6 around + Zenith + Nadir + Nadir patch shot.

    For those of you following at home, I am NOT using the lens ring clamp. I am using all the standard stock parts right out of the box. This includes the camera body plate.

    Is there something I am missing? Has anyone else been able to use this set up without any modifications?
  2. #2

    Hello Denis,

    What about shooting 2 nadir shots 180 degree apart instead of just one nadir shot ?
    For my combo ( M1-L+ nadir adapter, Canon 5D, Tokina 10-17@16mm) this works fine.
    The advantage is a better overlap with the nadir patch shot..

    Wim
  3. #3

    Dennis, I do the same as Wim and shoot two nadir shots on the tripod separated by 180 degrees of yaw. It gives the smallest hole to be patched.

    John
  4. #4
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    If Nick were to provide a low profile knob, only 1 Nadir shot and 1 patch shot would be required.



    Glad to know that I did not miss something. This pano head is one great piece of engineering.

    Thanks Wim and John for the help.
  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    If Nick were to provide a low profile knob, only 1 Nadir shot and 1 patch shot would be required.



    Glad to know that I did not miss something. This pano head is one great piece of engineering.

    Thanks Wim and John for the help.
    Hi Dennis,

    Thx for your report. Actually, Wim reported this "issue" to me before. And I responded that we could make a low profile knob as an option.
    The knob design and placement is a balance of usability and clearance of nadir patch. We started with a low profile screw knob. We found that it didn't tighten enough. We used a low profile lever knob from our old ASQRC2 and found it inconvenient to use as its rotation was limited to only 3/4 circle. So we settled with this current knob. It depends on your expectation of nadir patching. Do you need a patching nadir shot that is perfectly at the original (NPP) position as the other images? It is not absolutely needed. PTGUI VP correction can deal with small offset. Conventional nadir shot taking technique can't even come close as far as accuracy of positioning is concerned. So I think my compromised is justified. But then it is the user to decide what is acceptable.

    Nick



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  6. #6
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    Hey Nick,

    A low profile knob does not need to be any wider than 1/4" with a small .062" shoulder. It does, however, need to be a whole lot larger in diameter. The one pictured is 1.25" and works great. The knob is plenty big enough to allow the clamp to be tightened nice and tight. Even if there was only a 1/2 turn, that would be enough to allow the clamp to open up wide to slide the lower rail out. Since you have a retractable safety pin, it all works. There also appears to be some room to shave off part of the clamp. I swapped out the RD16 and am using the RD4 rotator. That also gives some more room to grab the knob. I just love the modular design of your stuff.

    I have always taken just 1 Nadir and 1 patch shot. I have done it this way since before PTGui had its viewpoint correction feature. They say that old habits die hard.

    Dennis
  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    Hey Nick,

    A low profile knob does not need to be any wider than 1/4" with a small .062" shoulder. It does, however, need to be a whole lot larger in diameter. The one pictured is 1.25" and works great. The knob is plenty big enough to allow the clamp to be tightened nice and tight. Even if there was only a 1/2 turn, that would be enough to allow the clamp to open up wide to slide the lower rail out. Since you have a retractable safety pin, it all works. There also appears to be some room to shave off part of the clamp. I swapped out the RD16 and am using the RD4 rotator. That also gives some more room to grab the knob. I just love the modular design of your stuff.

    I have always taken just 1 Nadir and 1 patch shot. I have done it this way since before PTGui had its viewpoint correction feature. They say that old habits die hard.

    Dennis
    Hmm, I guess I misunderstood your problem. Your complain about the knob of QRC. Wim reported the lever knob of nadir adapter being too thick.
    for your problem, you can take 6 shots around at -7.5 or -15 deg to reduce the nadir hole. Then you may not need the extra nadir shot. Sounds simpler than replacing the knob of QRC. what do you think? a long extension of QRC knob is needed for some camera with thick body and tripod socket at the front portion. My knob is not very long, many clamps in other names have longer knob.
    I do plan to develop lever knob for QRCs. That may be the ultimate fix.

    Nick



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  8. #8
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    Nick,

    The issue is with the clamp mounted on the lower rotator. In the stock configuration, the knob is too long and overlaps the tripod leg in the Nadir patch shot.



    Replacing the long knob with a shorter one that comes on a different clamp helps, but not enough. A low profile knob will fix this issue. Since it is almost impossible to accuratly move the tripod over the exact same distance each and every time, the more open space there is between components in the Nadir and the Nadir patch, the easier it is to apply the patch shot.

    Old dogs do not want to learn new tricks. I don't want to take one little extra Nadir picture rotated 180 degrees apart from the first one, dag nab it!

    Dennis
  9. #9

    Can I ask a dumb question -- (he asks and then asks it). Why do you need a quick release system to hold the lower arm to the rotator? Are you that concerned about saving 5 seconds???
  10. #10
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    If the question is directed to me, the only answer I can give is that this is the way the pano head came assembled. There is no way to bolt the rotator onto the lower arm (at least not until my next trip back to the machine shop). The Nadir adapter is bolted onto the opposite end, so there must be some way to slide the assembly left/right. The clamp has been moved from the vertical arm over to the rotator/lower arm assembly. I would just as soon leave the lower arm bolted to the rotator and dispense with the clamp all together. I would rather see the Nadir adapter slide left/right.
  11. #11

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    If the question is directed to me, the only answer I can give is that this is the way the pano head came assembled. There is no way to bolt the rotator onto the lower arm (at least not until my next trip back to the machine shop). The Nadir adapter is bolted onto the opposite end, so there must be some way to slide the assembly left/right. The clamp has been moved from the vertical arm over to the rotator/lower arm assembly. I would just as soon leave the lower arm bolted to the rotator and dispense with the clamp all together. I would rather see the Nadir adapter slide left/right.
    Those are the half thoughts I had...
  12. #12
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    DD,

    Actually, those half thoughts are good. After thinking about the lower arm/rotator mount, I could not think of any reason to maintain the quick release feature. Unless you swap out cameras a lot on the same pano head, it makes no sense to provide a way to quickly make the adjustment. Once you set it, you should forget it.

    I just finished modifying the clamp. I removed the knob and bolt, drilled and tapped the 1/4-20 hole all the way through to the center 3/8 hole, counter sunk the 1/4" thru hole then installed a stainless steel 1/4-20 countersink bolt. Now the bolt head is flush with the edge of the clamp. No more knob sticking out into the picture. Problem solved.

    I no longer need the rail stop I made for the lower rail. Since the rotator/lower arm assembly will not be taken apart for storage,there is no need for the rail stop.

    Thanks DD for "thinking out loud". The solution was easier than I thought it would be.

    Dennis
    Last edited by DennisS; 12-24-2011 at 09:29 PM.
  13. #13

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    DD,

    Actually, those half thoughts are good. After thinking about the lower arm/rotator mount, I could not think of any reason to maintain the quick release feature. Unless you swap out cameras a lot on the same pano head, it makes no sense to provide a way to quickly make the adjustment. Once you set it, you should forget it.

    I just finished modifying the clamp. I removed the knob and bolt, drilled and tapped the 1/4-20 hole all the way through to the center 3/8 hole, counter sunk the 1/4" thru hole then installed a stainless steel 1/4-20 countersink bolt. Now the bolt head is flush with the edge of the clamp. No more knob sticking out into the picture. Problem solved.

    I no longer need the rail stop I made for the lower rail. Since the rotator/lower arm assembly will not be taken apart for storage,there is no need for the rail stop.

    Thanks DD for "thinking out loud". The solution was easier than I thought it would be.

    Dennis
    Risking the beating of a dead horse he said, what about eliminating the clamp altogether and making the necessary holes to attach the lower arm directly to the rotator ala NN3/4/5?
  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    Nick,

    The issue is with the clamp mounted on the lower rotator. In the stock configuration, the knob is too long and overlaps the tripod leg in the Nadir patch shot.



    Replacing the long knob with a shorter one that comes on a different clamp helps, but not enough. A low profile knob will fix this issue. Since it is almost impossible to accuratly move the tripod over the exact same distance each and every time, the more open space there is between components in the Nadir and the Nadir patch, the easier it is to apply the patch shot.

    Old dogs do not want to learn new tricks. I don't want to take one little extra Nadir picture rotated 180 degrees apart from the first one, dag nab it!

    Dennis
    First of all, the QRC knob should be pointing to the back of camera. It won't be seen in 6 shots wround. If you shoot at -15 deg, then you don't need the nadir shot. You only need one patch shot.
    http://www.fromparis.com/technical/a...photoshop.html

    Nick



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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemonDuck View Post
    Risking the beating of a dead horse he said, what about eliminating the clamp altogether and making the necessary holes to attach the lower arm directly to the rotator ala NN3/4/5?
    If you like, you can get the NN4 instead.

    The Ultimate Modular series is an Arca Swiss compatible system whose parts can mix and match with other Arca Swiss compatible system.
    The rotator + clamp also allows single row panos by using the upper rail + clamp. We have not yet offered this bundle. But it can be built by ordering individual parts. We will also have a rotator with integral clamp too.
    It is far simpler to mount a nadir adapter at the end of rail instead of sliding it. It will be lighter too.

    Nick
    Last edited by nick fan; 12-25-2011 at 03:35 AM.



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