NN3 + Canon 400D + 15mm Fiseye Settings???
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Thread: NN3 + Canon 400D + 15mm Fiseye Settings???

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  1. #16
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    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    I got a similar result. Small stitching errors on the wires in one area and a small one which occurred on one rail on top besides the tree. In first case I found errors in the nadir with rests of tripod showing. So I had to mask pics 1860 1863 1866 besides the nadir shots.

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    Remember to save John's Stitch as a template to get good results in the future.

    Heinz
  2. #17
  3. #18

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    Remember to save John's Stitch as a template to get good results in the future.
    Thanks for the feedback guys, I am using PTGUI and it stitched without any problems (often it says it can't find the points to connect photos, but not this time). However my finished stitch has problems along the fence that I noticed, they were quite obvious. I don't have access to them at the moment but will post them later, maybe I just need to update PTGUI or change some setting.


    Heinz, what do you mean save John's stitch as a template? I can use it somehow to import photos like a workflow or something?
  4. #19
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    Template: http://www.panoguide.com/forums/qna/4299/

    Yes you should upgrade to PTGui Pro and then get the latest Beta version which offers a much better spread for fisheye lenses for example, masking function etc etc.

    Heinz
  5. #20

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    Robert, Also, don't overlook the Help facility in PTGui. F1 will take you straight to help for the current screen. Then select Main Menu in the left panel and scroll down to Apply Template and click the link to Working with templates.

    Your stitching errors on the fence can be caused by any of the following:

    - badly positioned control points and absence of points (the optimizer cannot directly align areas where there are no points)

    - inaccurate lens parameters

    - parallax errors due to inadequate setup of the panohead

    - movement of objects in the scene
    .
    Innacurate lens parameters arise from the optimizer's attempts to align the control points. If there are badly positioned control points or parallax etc, the evaluated lens parameters are likely to be wrong, leading to imperfect correction of lens distortions and inaccurate warping of the images. See http://wiki.panotools.org/Optimization for further details.
    .
    John
  6. #21
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    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Good morning John,

    "I don't see any near poles for checking parallax, though."

    I think you might have to explain what one has to do and how to place a near reference point in the "overlap area" to fine tune the settings in the stitched pano to check for parallax errors caused by wrong settings. Would be a help for more unexperienced users.

    Thx in advance,
    Heinz
  7. #22

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    I think you might have to explain what one has to do and how to place a near reference point in the "overlap area" to fine tune the settings in the stitched pano to check for parallax errors caused by wrong settings. Would be a help for more unexperienced users.
    Heinz, Good morning. I already said this in an earlier post in this thread:
    "If you have got the setup as good as you can get it, shoot a full 360x180 panorama, including a zenith + two nadir shots taken with the head rotated 180 degrees (of yaw) between them. Include something quite close to the camera (like a pole) in the middle of one of the horizontal image overlaps. If the resulting images don't stitch well enough, there should be enough telltale clues available to diagnose why. If you can let me have copies of the images I will be happy to investigate."
    .
    Robert has already seen my full tutorial on the subject at http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm . But to clarify: one needs to have an object close to the camera (50-100cm, say - distance not critical) such that it will appear in two neighbouring shots where they overlap. Behind the near object should be a distant background with features that act as a reference to make any parallax shift of the object obvious and measurable. The object does not have to be a pole: it can be the edge of a door, a piece of sticky tape on a window, a railing, etc. Naturally, you need to avoid control points placed on the near object - have points only on the far background.
    .
    Of course, the checks for parallax can be performed just using the Liveview feature on the camera (if available), but actual photos need to be shot as for a panorama for the evidence to be seen here.

    John

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