Will the NN4 support a 5D MkII and 24-70 lens?

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Thread: Will the NN4 support a 5D MkII and 24-70 lens?

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  1. #46

    Thanks Nick. Perhaps you're right about PTgui. Nevertheless I prefer having the manual control I get with the NN5 upper rotator.

    Paid another visit to your NN5 accessories page and found the RP1-38 rail plate. I see in the last two thumbnail images on that page that it's shown attached to a RRS lever clamp with a 3/8" threaded hole but it's hard to tell how the plate & clamp are being held together. Is there a 1/4" screw passing through the RRS clamp and being torqued down against the threads inside the brass insert, or is the brass insert holding them together by screwing into the RRS clamp's threads? The latter doesn't seem likely, but the insert appears longer than the plate is thick where they're pictured together, that's the reason I asked.

    I also noticed the other low profile plate comes with a shorter camera mounting knob. Would that not be necessary for the RP1-38 as well?

    Regards,
    Frank
  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankster View Post
    Thanks Nick. Perhaps you're right about PTgui. Nevertheless I prefer having the manual control I get with the NN5 upper rotator.

    Paid another visit to your NN5 accessories page and found the RP1-38 rail plate. I see in the last two thumbnail images on that page that it's shown attached to a RRS lever clamp with a 3/8" threaded hole but it's hard to tell how the plate & clamp are being held together. Is there a 1/4" screw passing through the RRS clamp and being torqued down against the threads inside the brass insert, or is the brass insert holding them together by screwing into the RRS clamp's threads? The latter doesn't seem likely, but the insert appears longer than the plate is thick where they're pictured together, that's the reason I asked.

    I also noticed the other low profile plate comes with a shorter camera mounting knob. Would that not be necessary for the RP1-38 as well?

    Regards,
    Frank
    the low profile rail plate are made for NN3 which has short lower rail. Some cameras need it to work. The lower rail of NN5 is much longer and doesn't require it.
    the 3/8" RP has a adapter screw with 3/8" male thread and 1/4" female thread. the 3/8" threads goes into socket on the clamp. the 1/4" thread accepts the upper rail knob. So no need to use special knob.
    the QR clamp I recommend is one with 1/4" hole and countersink. Then use a hex screw to tighten the clamp to the NCP2, with or without anti-twist plate.

    Nick



    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.
  3. #48

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    I am Nikonian, the Nikkor 24-70 mm lens with D3 has an upper rail setting @ zoom 24 at 147 on the upper rail. I do not know about NPP of the canon lens. I used the nikkor on NN5 without problems, but NN4 rails are shorter.
    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    Hi Frankster and welcome to the forum,

    Delicate question cause we are talking about the far end rail settings. No problem on NN5, but NN4 upper rail is shorter. Nikkor 24-70mm/f2.8 lens is the only lens I have tested so far up to 70-200mm that asks this far end setting. In combination with your L-Plate I have to check if there is enough room to reach the 147 URS = upper rail setting for D3. So I will check the D700 24-70mm/f2.8 settings this afternoon for you. I will let you know and then we will know which is the right panohead for you. You can use the L-Plate with both of the systems.

    Regards,
    Heinz
    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    Frank,

    I rechecked for D700, the result will be you can use only use zoom 50 and zoom 70. This lens asks a very long rail for zoom 24 and 28. You have even problems with the normal M1 170mm upper rail which is too short. You have to go for a 210mm upper rail.

    So if I would be you, I'd make a choice between NN5 RD16 +NN acra style clamp or M1-L with a 210mm upper rail.

    Heinz
    Quote Originally Posted by nick fan View Post
    Question #2 -- Am I correct to assume that the NN5 already comes with a 210mm upper rail?

    Answer: upper rail is 190mm. max NPP adjustment is 148mm. Design of NN5 and M1 is different, the length are not directly comparable.

    After double checking the specs and referring to the above quotes, I finally ordered and received a NN5/RD16.

    I didn't get the NN4 because it would have crippled the capability of my Nikon 24-70 lens by limiting its use to only 50mm zoom and higher (see the 3rd quote above). For 24mm, 28mm and 35mm zoom positions it is impossible to attain NPP.

    Of the two recommended choices (NN5 and M1-L) I chose not to get the M1 because its upper rotator is fixed at 7.5°.

    After testing my lenses for their NPP, I was very disappointed to find the NN5 also crippled the use of my Nikon 24-70 lens to the exact same extent as the NN4. The NN5 rail is also too short, and just like the NN4 it is impossible to attain NPP for 35mm or wider focal lengths.

    Why was the NN5 recommended as an alternative to the NN4?

    Regards,
    Frank
  4. #49
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    Frank,

    because the NN5 has the only rotator with 2,5º manually possible upper rotator setting, plus a longer upper rail.

    So at least you had to decide between the 2,5º upper rotator with limited use to the 24-70mm lens on NN5 in normal use, or an M1 with 210mm upper rail and limited 7,5º upper rotator increments.

    But, there is a solution to extend the NN5 upper rail by additional 70mm for example. I use the RRS lever clamp I already mentioned, machined a 3mm thread for the anti twist screw we mentioned. The RRS Clamp is fixed to a Wimberley P-20 Lens Plate with anti twist function. The Wimberley Plate is fixed to the base plate of the normal CP-2 camera plate with anti twist function for the Cp-2 - Wimberley lens plate connection and Cp-2 to upper rail. This will change your lower rail setting by around 30mm. If this is not enough length added, just use a longer wimberley plate. The only things that has to be machined is the anti twist screw on the RRS Clamp. This will extend the upper rail to a possible 210mm setting.

    I will send Pics tomorrow.

    Regards,
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 07-26-2011 at 10:44 AM.
  5. #50

    Quote Originally Posted by hindenhaag View Post
    I will send Pics tomorrow.
    In the meantime could you please tell me the ACTUAL Upper Rail Setting you needed to find the NPP with the D700 and Nikon 24-70 f2.8 lens with the lens set at 24mm?

    Obviously the 147URS you've given for the D3 doesn't work when that lens is on a D700.
  6. #51
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    The pics for NN5 Upper rail extension plus RRS B2-LRII mounted on M1:

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by hindenhaag; 07-28-2011 at 12:27 PM.
  7. #52

    Please. What is the ACTUAL Upper Rail Setting you needed to find the NPP with the D700 and Nikon 24-70 f2.8 lens with the lens set at 24mm?
  8. #53
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    Start at 161 @zoom 24 for URS.

    Heinz
  9. #54

    Thanks for posting a workaround. After giving it much thought I do appreciate the concept but don't think much about its design. There are consequences to using this device that aren't immediately obvious, and as a result it actually creates more problems than it solves.

    Here's the main things I didn't like about it....

    -Because the CP2 was twisted 180° from its factory position, you are now asking me to hang my camera gear from the upper rail using the wrong CP2 screw hole. This hole has less than half the threads of the correct hole, and to make matters worse not all of them are usable due to a screw head you have sticking into the other end of the hole. The 2-3 threads available to hold the camera might be ok if this were a one-time application, but it isn't. These threads would see repeated use every time the URS is readjusted, and the torque applied by that large rubber coated knob will only add more wear & tear to the threads over time. Having my camera suddenly crash to the ground after a year or two of use is not a risk I'm willing to take, especially when it can be avoided simply by using the full-length screw hole (6-7 threads) as the NN5 designers intended.

    -70mm is overkill given that only 16mm was needed to use the 24-70 lens at 24mm. IMO There's no point in making the rig less stable for naught.

    -I could no longer use my 135mm lens. Its URS would now be unattainable, even with the camera position moved back just 16mm. The 16mm URS gained at the back of the rail is now lost at the front, and you give no way to readjust without replacing or disassembling parts. Changing lenses in the field is something that should be convenient by making simple rail adjustments, this turns it into a chore that defeats the conveniences built into the NN5.

    -Your rail has anti-twist nubs that were never used because the rail was mounted upside down. It seems as if the whole rig was built to accommodate the M3 screw you already had in the RRS clamp so the clamp could still be used with your M1 panohead. I suspect this is the sole reason why the rail was mounted upside down and the CP2 twisted 180° away from its standard factory position.


    Knowing what I didn't want, I put together the assembly shown in the illustration. Maybe it can help somebody else with the same camera/lens as mine to know what their in for before they buy a unit that doesn't live up to expectations. The extra parts (mini-clamp & rail stops) cost $85 ($140 including the RRS rail). Here are the improvements I made (the illustration explains how it works).....

    -The CP2 is at its factory position so the fully threaded hole can be used to hold the camera, as the designers intended.

    -The RRS rail comes with an adjustable anti-twist flange which allowed me to custom fit the rail so it wouldn't extend any farther back than necessary. It costs the same as the other brand but is more versatile. It is not mounted upside down, but if it were the anti-twist flange could still be used as it is removable and can be fastened to either side of the rail.

    -The RRS sliding mini-clamp and rail stops give me the quick & easy thumb-screw adjustability needed to use ALL my lenses, and to readjust conveniently - without tools or replacing/disassembling parts. The rail stops provide positive positioning that can be performed with eyes closed.

    -Anti-twist keys are built into the backs of the RRS mini and lever clamps. No need to drill & tap ANY holes - not even in the lever clamp for an M3 screw.

    -The mini-clamp adds only 14mm of thickness to the assembly. Thus the D700 camera L-plate can still be used in both portrait & landscape orientations.

    All the parts still fit in the case when attached to the upper rail.

    With the rail stops to positively mark positions, the sliding screw-type clamp (along with the attached lever clamp) can easily be removed as a single assembly for separate storage or repurposing just by loosening the thumb screw. It could also be left on the camera so that one doesn't need to constantly realign the marks on the lever clamp with the marks on the camera L-plate each time the NN5 is put to use, just do it once then use the positive rail stops to facilitate quicker setup in the field for subsequent panos/mosaics.

    Regards,
    Frank

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  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankster View Post
    -70mm is overkill given that only 16mm was needed to use the 24-70 lens at 24mm. IMO There's no point in making the rig less stable for naught.

    -I could no longer use my 135mm lens. Its URS would now be unattainable, even with the camera position moved back just 16mm. The 16mm URS gained at the back of the rail is now lost at the front, and you give no way to readjust without replacing or disassembling parts. Changing lenses in the field is something that should be convenient by making simple rail adjustments, this turns it into a chore that defeats the conveniences built into the NN5.


    that is good solution.
    if you however, just want to extend the URS, a T-adapter is a much cheaper option
    http://store.nodalninja.com/products...mm-offset.html

    Nick



    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.
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