If you are new to making pole panoramas or when you search for another pole then it can be a bit difficult to decide which pole suits you best.
To help you a bit I made a gallery for each of the Fanotec Pole Series that are available.
In the galleries you find examples that gives a good idea what kind of view you can expect with each of the poles.
Gallery Series 1 pole: http://www.dmmdh.nl/panos/fanotec/fa...ash/index.html
Gallery Series 2 pole: http://www.dmmdh.nl/panos/fanotec/fa...ash/index.html
About the height of the poles:
Each panorama is shot at the maximum height that is possible for the model, with the Series 1 pole the lens is approx. 2,9 meter from the ground and with the Series 2 pole approx. 5,9 meter from the ground. Some extra height is possible but to get the best stability I prefer not to fully expand the tubes but leave a few extra cm inside.
About the gear on the poles:
On top is a Canon EOS 5D camera (*) with a shaved Tokina 10-17 zoomlens, a Fanotec mini-quickmount and a Fanotec R1 lensring.
The camera is set in portrait position and wireless released by a ZAPShot controller.
For leveling I use a clamp-on bubble level.
At the bottom of the poles I have a Fanotec R-D4 rotator with Fanotec footplate.
(*) One of the Series 1 panoramas is shot with a Canon EOS 550D and a Tokina 10-17@10mm.
About the shoot:
I take 6 images around with the Tokina 10-17 lens zoomed to 14.5 mm (**).
The pole is hold handheld in a steady and leveled position. When I am in doubt if I wobble the pole too much or when I see that there is a lot of movement in the scene then I simply shoot another series of images, later I stitch both series and keep the best.
Most times I don't shoot zenith images because they are almost impossible to batch process when there is more then just sky in the image.
Please keep in mind that very few people, other then panorama makers ;-) will ever look upwards in a panorama just to see more sky.
(**) One of the Series 2 panoramas is shot with a Tokina email@example.com.
About the images:
To get the smallest possible footprint of the pole I set the R1 to a down tilt of -15 degree and shift the lens approx. 12 mm forwards out of NPP.
By doing this the top of the R1 is not visible in the images, in fact the footprint of the pole is so small (less then 6 degree) that you can see your own fingers holding the pole.
Due to its small size the footprint is easy to edit by cloning or by using a logo as I do.
On the 5D camera the images of the Tokina firstname.lastname@example.org mm are full frame with a vertical FoV of approx. 150 degree so this means there is a black hole in zenith of approx. 30 degree.
About the processing of the images:
For reason of comparison there are no patch images applied in several panoramas so what you see is what you get !
Most images are batch processed, if you are new to batch processing and like to try it out yourself then perhaps this tutorial I wrote about how to batch process handheld pole panoramas can help you on track:
About the panoramas:
With the camera, lens and settings as described above I make equirectangulars of 10800 px width and with a vertical field of view of 150 degree.
Images are stitched with PTGui Pro and converted to Flash (tiles 2400 px) and HtmlCss3 (tiles 960 to 480 px for iPad and iPhone/iPod) with Pano2VR.
To hide the black hole in zenith I block the player at 60 degree.
About the galleries:
Panoramas can be viewed in Flash for desktop computers and in HtmlCss3 for iDevices.
In the panorama controller is a button that links to the INDEX of images.
In case you encounter a serious problem and can't view the panoramas then please let me know.
For questions, or if you want to report something, please use the Reply option of this posting.
Happy pole shooting greetings,