I bought the NN5 last week from 360 Tactical and I took the day off today to set it up with a few of my lenses.
The Sigma 10-20mm lens is set up and working great, along with the Nikon 50mm F1.8.
The issue I am having is with the Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 Lens.
It looks like I need to push the camera back another inch or so on the upper rail, but it will not go any further back for the 24mm setup.
The D300s camera is in vertical orientation.
I have a long thin wooden dowel standing upright. About 3 feet back against a white wall is a red dot which is place exactly behind the tip of the dowel. The dowel is about a quarter of an inch wide.
With the camera slid to the furthest point on the upper rail, and when I rotate to the right there is still a shift of the red dot to the right behind the dowel.
Looking through the viewfinder, when I rotate left and the dowel and red dot move to the right, the dot has moved from behind the dowel when I get to the edge of the frame. The same when I go the other way.
It looks like I need another inch, or inch and a half to hit the correct point.
I know my 70-200mm will be ok if I try it as it has a mount on the lens to push it back, but am I doing something wrong with the 24-70mm, or it is simply not a recommended lens?
By the way, why is there a mark to 160mm on the upper rail when the mount will not push back that far?
I'm sure Heinz will give you an exact reference for the upper rail setting but in the meantime, are you using the Camera Plate 2 as supplied with the unit? If so, are you aware the base of it can be reversed to allow a slight extension of movement to the position of the camera on the upper arm?
I tested all my DX lenses and the fisheyes, but because I use the big boys with D700/D3 I have to check it for you. I will tell you this evening. In advance: 24-70 is the only lens you can not shoot +90 because the body of D3 stops at the side of the rail. So you have to shot Zenith at +65º visa versa 180 for example.
As Andrew mentioned, you have to use the base plate with the short end of the plate placed to the back of the camera body.
BTW: we do not talk about the thin top plate with a long or short lip. We are talking of the thick base plate. Have a look to the site you are mounting towards the upper rail: the white mark devides the length of the plate by 2:1. So you have a short side: this will leave more space to the ends of the upper rail than the long one. May be you have to take top and base plate apart and turn the top plate around. May be you have to change the place of the small silver screw to do it. Use the long lip of the upper plate to the back of the camera body resting towards the screen. I changed the plastic monitor cover to a glass one as with all my camera bodies.
Perhaps I didn't explain properly. You can mount the CP2 so the lip is to the REAR of the camera or to the FRONT of the camera. This changes how far back along the upper arm you can move the plate in relation to the position of the thread hole on the base of the camera.
it is not always possible to just turn the CP-2 in total to use the lip in front or at the back of the camera on all Nikon bodies. I just tried to do this with D300s like seen on the pics I added: using the long lip in front asks me to slip the small plate backwards to reach the tripod mount screw position. The small silver screw inside the CP-2 stops it half way down.
Getting new equipment, I take the CP-2 apart, top and base plate. Then I try the thin top plate with small and long lip to fit in front or at the back of the camera body. Once I know which plate to use at the back or in front, then I add my base plate to the top plate.Most of the times it serves at its best to use the short side mounted to the back of the camera like shown on D300s. When I remember all my different settings right, the nikkor 50mm on D3 has an URS of 38, this will ask the short side to the front of the body.
I bought a second CP-2, mounted visa versa to the first one, so I can quickly change the plates without the need to mingle around with replacing the small silver screw to change base plate position from back to front
Last edited by hindenhaag; 03-31-2011 at 06:15 AM.
First I have checked my database D3 to D300s for URS with my fisheye lenses: to step from D3 to D300s, 10,5 16mm, Sigma and Samyang 8mm, all of them add 15mm to my D3 settings on D300s.
Then I checked D300s with the URS of D3 @zoom 24 which is 147. Reference moves against turning direction of the camera, which means concerning to our rules, we have to go backwards. This would mean 162, beyond the end of the rail. Before taking of CP-2 of the D300s, I checked the setting @zoom 35 : 133+15 = 148. And it was ok. Then I changed CP-2 to Arca Style quick release system. Now I could reach 162 for URS. And this is ok. NPP for D300s with 24-70 @zoom 24 is 162.
2/3 of the length of the plate sits inside the clamp.
Conclusion, if you like to use this lens at zoom 24 and 28, you have to get an Arca Style Quick release system: clamp and plate. If you want 100% of a camera plate inside the NN arca style clamp, you have to get a Wimberley universal (arca style) camera plate. I checked it. My normal LRS D300s is 60. Check this with Arca style system. May be you have to correct LRS with this combination.
Btw: now I remember why I did not have data for D300s with 24-70mm. I could not reach the setting for Zoom 24 at 162 because the last setting with normal equipment and CP-2 is 149. And then I decide to leave it alone, cause in case of this lens I could use D3 instead. So I did not test it till today. But this question served lot: D300s owners may add 15mm to the D3 URS settings and test them with their own equipment.
(Nice tip for our EU special resellers Andrew, Mauro and Vincen?)
Last edited by hindenhaag; 03-31-2011 at 11:02 AM.