Ulitmate M Series Pano Heads

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  1. #226
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Jun 2009
    Location: Melbourne, Australia
    Posts: 9

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS
    If your final stitch does not have the lower rail in the picture, there is not a problem. I have the lower rail in all my pictures taken on the M1. The final panorama does not have the lower rail visible anywhere.
    Hi Dennis. I will get the 55mm clamp and see how much of that is visible, and how much of the rotator shows, if at all, after the clamp change. No equipment is visible in the stitch, but I thought that if your equipment can be seen at extreme angles, the extreme angle is made pointless. I think that holds true but only for equipment seen at the centre bottom, because the sides can be replaced by the centre of the next image. I suspect that once I replace my 65mm lower clamp with a 55mm one, all of the -15 stitched will show only a very small bit of the clamp/rotator.

    PS I came across a post of yours where you showed a long rail mounted to tripod for nadir -
    http://www.dlsphoto.net/Panoguide/1st_attempt.jpg
    It looks so much like my solution. Don't you use it at all any more? Do you prefer the M1 nadir adapter? What about shadows? My rail is quite long, and I like the flexibility of being able to shoot from a greater height if need be. And with PTGui's viewpoint correction, that's not a problem any more.
    PPS I've had a good look at the panos on your site, and I really like the Yosemite ones, well done. :) Nice implementation of HDR.

    I have done a test pano in my shed, where there is plenty of detail, straight lines and roof structure to test NPP. I got a perfect stitch.
    http://raymo.com.au/panoramas/shed-20120128/
    I tried both -7.5 and -15, and both stitched as easily as each other. I slightly prefer -7.5 for this scene, but I would need to use a greater angle for tighter scenes ie next to furniture in a hotel room.

    Heinz, the jury's still out on that one. I'll see how things go over the next few weeks with the M1 using -7.5 and -15. My gut feeling says -12 is good and better than -15, but once I reduce the clamp footprint, I might prefer -15 after all. We'll see.

    Nick, thanks for such an excellent product, well done.
    I don't know if there are others that want less than -15, but please don't worry about it on my account. Thanks for the offer either way. As said above, I'll see how things pan out. Oh yeah, affecting the zenith ~3 degrees isn't ideal, although I could live with it.
  2. #227
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Sep 2009
    Location: Los Angeles, CA
    Posts: 348

    PS I came across a post of yours where you showed a long rail mounted to tripod for nadir -
    http://www.dlsphoto.net/Panoguide/1st_attempt.jpg
    It looks so much like my solution. Don't you use it at all any more? Do you prefer the M1 nadir adapter? What about shadows? My rail is quite long, and I like the flexibility of being able to shoot from a greater height if need be. And with PTGui's viewpoint correction, that's not a problem any more.
    That was my very first attempt at a Nadir adapter. I was testing to see if the camera would work being held out and pointed down. I refined the design, pulling the camera in closer and closer until I required a minimum swing distance. I used this home made version before I recieved the M1 pano head:


    I have started using the M1. There is some more modifications I need to do before I am 100% satisfied with the M1.

    For shadows I take multiple exposures with the tripod in different positions. This gives me plenty of "material" to work with when masking/stitching. I take a final hand held Nadir patch shot with the camera held out of position.

    PTGui does do a wonderful job with its built in masking and viewpoint correction.

    PPS I've had a good look at the panos on your site, and I really like the Yosemite ones, well done. :) Nice implementation of HDR.
    Thanks for the compliment. The last "Yosemite" and "Fall Colors along the Eastern Sierra" series were all done with RAW. I did HDR on a few of the earlier Yosemite series before I converted over to RAW. I now prefer RAW to HDR any day.
  3. #228

    Hello everybody

    i plan to buy a new Pano Head an im thinkin of a NN M1
    i'm affraid if the upper rail might be to long for my Canon 5D III with the 8-15mm Fish - anybody here who could test this?
  4. #229
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Apr 2008
    Location: Hong Kong
    Posts: 2,418

    Quote Originally Posted by benben82 View Post
    Hello everybody

    i plan to buy a new Pano Head an im thinkin of a NN M1
    i'm affraid if the upper rail might be to long for my Canon 5D III with the 8-15mm Fish - anybody here who could test this?
    presumably not a problem. John Houghton uses this lens on 5D II.
    http://panotoolsng.586017.n4.nabble.....html#a4598867


    Nick



    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.
  5. #230

    Quote Originally Posted by nick fan View Post
    presumably not a problem. John Houghton uses this lens on 5D II.
    Nick
    The long rail is only a problem with fisheye lenses if the quick release clamp is mounted at the end of the rail. The solution is to mount the QR clamp on a clamp that slides along the upper rail instead. I've used the QR-40B for this purpose. You can also attach the ring mount from an RD1/10 directly on the clamp of the upper rotator. Either way, a part of the upper rotator will inevitably intrude a little into one side of the image circle. This is not usually a significant problem and only affects the shorter focal lengths <11mm with the camera in portrait orientation.
    .
    John
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