Ulitmate M Series Pano Heads

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Thread: Ulitmate M Series Pano Heads

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  1. #91

    Quote Originally Posted by Cameleer View Post
    Hi Bill thank you for your help.
    Here is what's on my wish list to receive by April 14th or 15th.
    1 - Ultimate M1-L PP with partial refund.
    1 - Nadir Adapter for the Ultimate M1-L Modular System
    1 - Canon 5D-2 camera plate.
    1 - R-D8

    Do you have all of these items yet?

    Roger Berry
    * M1-L PP has been shipping to early buyers - you are one of them - assembly required of all pieces (partial reason for the heavy discount).
    http://nodalninja.com/Manuals/M1L_Installation_QRG.pdf Once the invoice is adjusted and refund issued you will receive new amended invoice.

    * A Nadir Adapter for M1 series is still in development with no date for release yet.

    * The camera plate will be universal but we offer free upgrade (another freebie :-) to camera specific plate custom-made for your camera when available - could be months out.

    * We have RD8 in stock.

    thx
    Bill
  2. #92
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Hi Bill,

    Excellent manual. Just a short question: are the M3 anti twist screws included in the set? Specially for those who order a normal M1 without rotator in the future? Otherwise there should be a hint to take off these screws from the old NN5/3 with RD4/RD8/RD16 lower rail to fix it to the clamp.

    Plus, M-1x will be delivered with a universal camera plate?

    Just to make things clear for NN Fans!

    Cheers,
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-07-2011 at 12:53 PM.
  3. #93

    Quote Originally Posted by nick fan View Post
    we will never advertise/ guarantee this feature. But in your hand, I am sure it can.


    I think the marking on the clamp can be used as a reference. In fact using a ruler to measure the camera height and then calculated the NPP value can be an easier approach. This is possible due to much higher precision in the design and manufacturing of the Ultimate series. I will make some tools for easily determination of NPP too.
    My aim is to build a certified NPP database for as many cameras / lenses as possible. Then I will make integrated rail stops for sales. Some good excuse to buy lots of gear for myself. Using the M1 will never be as easy before. More details to follow.

    Nick
    Nick,

    Can you give more info how to "In fact using a ruler to measure the camera height and then calculated the NPP value can be an easier approach."?

    Thanks...
  4. #94
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Hi,

    It's around 8am here and it's a sunday morning. Nick is very busy, even on a sunday I suppose. We are waiting for our products. OK if I step into it?

    http://homepage.mac.com/hindenhaag/filechute/LRS-M1.tif

    Have a look to Wiki database as well to know what I am talking about:

    http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database

    Measure H of your camera. Then measure O = Offset of M1 camera bottom to vertical rail. This means, whatever camera plate you use, fix it and measure. H + O will give you LRS. C= center mark of lower rail clamp. Fix LRS to C.

    Then use Smooth's tutorial to correct "System Faults" of whole System - Sensor "Miss"_placement inside camera body for example - to find your definite LRS = Lower rail setting for your camera body.

    http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162

    I always use this as add on, no matter on how you found your LRS in first case: laser placed position of lens axis to center of rotator, -90° center rotator shot, measurements as I mentioned.

    Smooth's "hacksaw method" is the golden goal: saw teeth cutting to the left, move to the left by 1mm, cutting to the right, move to the right by 1mm. Final LRS will show change of cutting direction of teeth moving 1mm to right and left of your definite LRS.

    Sucess and enjoy the new equipment.

    Feel free to ask.

    Regards,
    Heinz

    BTW: pic shows the M1-Nadir Adapter below vertical rail which will be available later this year to offer the "plug and play version" of nadir shots similar NN3/NN4/NN5 Nadir adaptor. No matter of long exposures or bracketing shots, this is "Nadir to Go"

    Plus, I am not a "Ballet Dancer" to save my equipment while shooting the Nadir bending over my equipment. But there are "many ways to Rome". Find your own workflow.
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-10-2011 at 12:13 AM.
  5. #95

    How do you fix LRS to C? Do you use the cm marks on the bottom rail? If so how? Or do you do it another way?
  6. #96
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Yes, you are right. In the manual number 12 you can see the picture. Having slide the vertical end of the lower rail to its end for repeatable position, open up the clamp to be able to slide the lower rail in it. Center the LRS measurement to the center mark on top of the clamp. You have to find it in cm.

    Heinz
  7. #97

    "In the manual number 12" What manual are you talking about? Only manual I can find is this one...http://nodalninja.com/Manuals/M1L_Installation_QRG.pdf
  8. #98
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Yes, you are right, forgot to set the link. Sorry for this.

    The only one till now. Specially set up for Preproduction self assembly.

    Heinz
  9. #99

    Thanks...

    My vertical arm is set so the back edge is lined up with the first hash mark on the horizontal rail. I measured the thickness of the vertical arm and added it to the measurements of "O" & "H". I then set it to the center mark of the lower clamp.

    I measured and set the upper arm to aline the tripod mount on the camera to the 2 cm mark on the rail, and then set the upper arm to the calculated Entrance pupil distance on the upper clamp.

    I am very pleased with my first attempt at setting the OSP. Thanks again.
  10. #100

    IMHO: don't use numbers. Use the lens and LCD or viewfinder. For the vertical rail position, point the camera down at the pivot point and move the rail until the pivot point is in the center of the crosshairs. Try a pano then use the buzz saw method to correct. See above. Every camera and every head is a different from every other. You need to do your positioning for uniquely for your gear.
  11. #101

    What cross hairs are you talking about?
  12. #102
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Quote Originally Posted by bbc597 View Post
    Thanks...

    My vertical arm is set so the back edge is lined up with the first hash mark on the horizontal rail. I measured the thickness of the vertical arm and added it to the measurements of "O" & "H". I then set it to the center mark of the lower clamp.

    I measured and set the upper arm to aline the tripod mount on the camera to the 2 cm mark on the rail, and then set the upper arm to the calculated Entrance pupil distance on the upper clamp.

    I am very pleased with my first attempt at setting the OSP. Thanks again.
    Ups, you do not have to measure the thickness of the vertical rail.

    http://homepage.mac.com/hindenhaag/filechute/LRS-M1.tif I have added some signs to understand it better.

    For LRS just add the measurement O + H. Actually we need the lens axis with camera pointing down -90° directly to the rotation center of the rotator. The easiest way is to measure O + H with a ruler. Mount the camera to the upper rail, the slide the lower rail to LRS and fix the clamp. Now the lens axis should be very close to rotation center of the rotator.

    Now add Smooth's "hacksaw method" as I already described below to fine tune the LRS.

    Actually there are two ways to get near the LRS: measurement of O + H, or the "viewfinder method". Viewfinder method: fix camera to upper rail, set pitch= movements up and down to -90° on upper rotator. Now the lens points down to the lower rail. Now open up the LR-clamp, look through the viewfinder and slide the lower rail into place till you see the center of the rotator in the center of the viewfinder. If I remember well, Demon is shooting with a compact camera. So may be he has a "Cross Hair" in the center of his viewfinder. Then he will use this mark to place it on top of the rotation center of the rotator. Let us call it RC.

    With NN3, NN5, you could use the logos center on top of the rotator and before this the fixing screw of lower rail to rotator to center it easily to the center of the viewfinder. With M1 Series, there is no logo to center to. The only possibility to center to are the marks on top of the lower rail clamp besides the lower rail. This is a lot more tricky. Because of this, Nick and I advised to measure the "theoretical LRS" of O + H.

    Anyway, to correct "faults in the camera lens system" use the hacksaw method to fine tune LRS.

    http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162

    @bbc597: Did I explain it in the right way to understand what we are talking about?
    Feel free to ask.

    Regards,
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-12-2011 at 09:11 PM.
  13. #103

    Ooops! Looked more closely at the M. The lower rail slides on the clamp. Forget what I said, it's stupid.
  14. #104
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Shit happens. But you tried to give help to one of the forum members. Tha'ts what counts.

    Cheers,
    Heinz
  15. #105
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Shit happens. But you tried to give help to one of the forum members. That's what counts.

    Cheers,
    Heinz
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