D300, Samyang 8mm, w/ NN5L
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 64

Thread: D300, Samyang 8mm, w/ NN5L

Share/Bookmark
  1. #31

    Quote Originally Posted by Adamo View Post
    John,
    I noticed from this PTS that you put for FOL 8.55 and for conversion factor 1.6. Is there any reason for this?
    The 1.6 was the result of my applying one of my own project files as a template to initialize the project and this was for a Canon camera rather than Nikon camera. The factor should really be 1.5.
    It's of no importance since all PTGui cares about is the horizontal field of view of the lens (hfov), which is determined by the optimizer. It makes no difference whether you specify the lens as focal length 8mm at crop factor 1.7, 8mm at 1.6, or 9mm at 1.5. PTGui computes an initial hfov from the figures you supply (or from EXIF data in the images), and the optimizer then fine tunes this value.

    Also, you used fullframe for lens type. I used circular.
    I used fullframe because the lens is generally regarded as a fullframe lens - i.e. no part of the edge of the image circle of the lens is visible in the frame. However, you can specify the lens as acircular lens and set a circular crop to pass through the corners of the image to use all of the image frame. If the image quality falls off in the corners of the lens, you can set the crop circle smaller so that the corners are excluded.

    However, after optimizer I got max distance 15.xxx
    Thank you!
    For the best possible results, it's important to have control points accurately positioned on matching features and nicely spread along the full length of the overlap area. A large number of points is not necessary. The automatic generator will generate as many points as you like (set via Tools->Options), but not all the points may be positioned very accurately and freqently they are not spread evenly either.

    Poorly positioned points will usually be characterised by large distance values in the control points table after optimization. These points should be either deleted or manually repositioned accurately. You can use the Delete Worst Control Points option on the Control Points menu to delete all the really bad points in one fell swoop, but PTGui will not remove a point if by doing so less than 7 points would remain for pair of images.

    Removing bad points automatically may remove points that have every appearance of being accurately positioned. This can happen when features are affected by parallax or when the lens parameters are not yet right. To get the lens parameters right, you need a nice spread of control points. In simple terms, if you want the images to align well all along the length of the seams, you need control points placed all along the seams. So it pays to check the spread of points between pairs of images visually and add a few points manually where they are lacking. It is all too easy to get a "very good" optimizer report when points are clustered in the middle of the image overlaps, but the images may still not align well in the corners where there are no control points owing to the lens distortion not being adequately corrected. Adding points towards the corners will help the optimizer to correct the distortion there and get good alignment.

    John
  2. #32
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    Heinz,
    Thank you for your reply.
    I'm buying nadir adapter. Also, 90/120 deg ring. Can you suggest another detent ring that is not included with NN5 and could come handy? Two rings cost only $20.
    Best regards,

    Adamo
  3. #33
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    John,
    Thank you for your explanation. It makes a lot of sens to me.
    I use mainly Autopano now, but maybe in the future I'll buy PTGui. Is it better than Autopano? Expensive also.
    Best regards,

    Adamo
  4. #34
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,741

    Adamo, depends on the sort of lenses you have.

    Normally I use 16mm with D3 or 14-24. If 4 shots are needed shaved 10.5 or Samyang 8mm. 50mm is a good alternative. Or 70-200mm.

    You can calculate the number of shots by this:

    http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc_de.htm

    http://www.nodalninja.com/product_selector.html

    14-24 will need 45/36º 8/10stops, 50mm needs 24/20/18º with 15/18/20 stops NN5L will 15º with 25 stops in this case.

    Cheers,
    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 11-26-2010 at 02:20 AM.
  5. #35

    Quote Originally Posted by Adamo View Post
    I use mainly Autopano now, but maybe in the future I'll buy PTGui. Is it better than Autopano?
    Which is best depends on what you want. Both products can prodouce excellent results and can do things that the other can't. Autopano Pro will appeal to those who place ease of use high in their list of priorities and maybe will not care too much about the odd minor stitching error. PTGui offers more flexibility and control over the whole stitching process and will suit those in pursuit of the highest quality stitching and who value the ability to tackle unusual stitching tasks - e.g. "stitching" (warping/remapping) single images, support of cylindrical and equirectangular lens types. Undoubtedly PTGui is more difficult to learn if you want to take advantage of its Advanced modes, but it's like riding a bike: easy when you know how.

    If you feel comfortable with Autopano Pro and it meets your immediate requirements, it's probably best to stick with it for the moment and learn how to get the best out of it. Reading posts here and elsewhere should gradually give an idea of what PTGui and other products are capable of and alert you to things worth trying.

    John
  6. #36
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    John,
    I appreciate all your help.
    So, how exactly should I shoot 4 around to get optimal result.
    Thank you!
  7. #37

    Adamo, I'm not sure what the optimal result is that you are aiming for. You shoot 4 around at a yaw increment of 90 degrees, which is obvious. The pitch of the camera is entirely up to you. Pitch down to include more of the nadir area; pitch up to include more of the zenith area.

    John
  8. nadir shot

    #38
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    Why am I getting URS shadow so big / long? What's wrong?
    Still cannot delete attachments.
    image is here
    http://www.zshare.net/image/83570363064c6f69/
    Thank you!
  9. #39

    I would recommend that you mask out the panohead from the camera images using alpha channel masks, or use the built-in mask facility in the new PTGui Pro V9. If you are not familiar with alpha channel masks, see this tutorial.

    John
  10. #40
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    Hi,
    NN manual for nadir adapter says that there is 3mm offset on NN3. Is this also the case with NN5?
  11. #41

    Quote Originally Posted by Adamo View Post
    NN manual for nadir adapter says that there is 3mm offset on NN3. Is this also the case with NN5?
    Nope it's only with NN3 as vertical arm of NN3 is shorter than NN5 one so the offset !



    French Nodal Ninja Distributor
    Blog: http://www.skivr.com
    Online shop: http://magasin.skivr.com
    Photo gallery: http://flickr.com/skivr
    Support website: http://support.skivr.com
  12. looking for NPP

    #42
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    Here are to images I got from stitching the same images trying to find NPP / OSP. It drives me crazy. Help!
    Also, I uploaded 6 images that I took trying.
    If possible send me PTS file.
    Thank you!

    http://www.filedropper.com/npp

    http://www.filedropper.com/images_84
  13. #43

    First, please try to be more considerate when uploading files. There was no reason to post 6 x 25MB RAW files. jpeg files of 1-2MB are entirely adequate for the purpose. As it was, the download speed being only 80KB/sec (on my 20Mb/s) connection), the zip file took nearly half-an-hour to download.

    The 6 images stitched ok but the nadir showed a sawtooth outline that indicated the camera needs shifting left slightly. Otherwise, there weren't any significant parallax problems. I've put the project file and nadir image at http://www.johnhpanos.com/adamo.zip.

    John
  14. #44
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Nov 2010
    Location: Cincinnati, OH
    Posts: 33

    John,
    I apologize for not thinking about file size. I'm new to this stuff and didn't realize that it will take so long to d/l it.
    Here I uploaded small tripod shot only 550K.
    http://www.filedropper.com/1000cube5
    This project drives me crazy for past few days. I would like to know what are correct settings for SAMYANG in PTGui are.
    I'm thinking of buying it.
  15. #45

    Filedropper.com seems to be very slow and unreliable today and I cannot access the 1000cube5 file at the moment. As for the PTGui settings for the Samyang, the pts file I uploaded should contain all the parameters you need.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •