Polymorph is easy to use and I think anyone with moderate skills can use it to make a molded base.
You all are visualizing a very complicated plate and customizing procedure. It looks a lot simpler to me. What I have suggested is a simple plate with two holes (or one slot and one hole) and a lip at the back.
One hole is for a countersunk machine head screw to screw the plate to the camera using the camera's tripod hole. The other hole is threaded and exactly on the optical center line of the camera -- that's the hard part. Getting the mounting hole on the optical center line. The lip at the back is to align the camera square on the plate. The slot would be exactly perpendicular to the lip at the back.
To use you put a machine screw into the slot. Push the lip of the plate snugly against the back edge of the camera and tighten. Then put the plate on the NNXXX arm and insert the mounting knob and tighten down. It's that simple.
The plate doesn't even need to be painted. The stock for the plate has the countersunk hole or slot and the lip. It's a blank and then for the second hole is drilled and threaded at a precise location so that the optical center line is centered on the NNXXX arm.
You could hire a college student to do them with the proper jigs and a drill press. I could do it myself if I had the tools. I don't have the tools is why I'm asking.
You guys are making it sound like it's a solution to global warming. It's not that complicated.....
Last edited by DemonDuck; 10-10-2010 at 09:58 AM.
By custom plates, I mean plates attached to the camera permanently. They are contoured so that battery door is free to open and close.
We listen. We try harder.
And your description of custom plate is nothing like my idea. I repeat. It's a simple plate with two holes or a slot and a hole and a lip at the back. Think simpler.
The major cost of making custom plate are
1. cost of a camera
2. time to work out the critical dimensions
3. inventory and risk of non-selling inventory.
No matter how simple is the design, I can't reduce these major cost. So if I were to make custom plates, I will make it as good as possible and sell them for good prices.
We listen. We try harder.
Here is a question I received from a customer can someone help me with an answer?
"Q: can you please give me some information: - i use a 5D Mk II with an external battery grip (not original). - the mounting scre on this battery grip is not centered with the optical axis of the lens (like on smaller cams). Questions: 1) is your offered t-30 adaptor strong enough to handle the weight of a Canon 5D II-camera with lenses (800g for body plus 300g for battery grip plus about 1000g for the attached lens? 2) Is it possible to mount on this battery grip? Dimensions (the mounting screw is center): width: right 3,2" (8 cm), left 2,6" (6,5cm) from the front: 1,1" (2,8cm) to the back: 1,5" (3,8cm) is this the original adaptor or a copy/rebuild version? If it is possible and you have a battery grip like this, please can you send me a photo to: XXXX@XXXXXX.com Please let me know! Thanks in advance! "
Last edited by Vincèn; 10-13-2010 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Please don't post emails directly in forum to avoid spam !
your client has to be aware, that the lower rail setting will change for the height of the battery grip to the right, which means you should be sure the lower rail is long enough to take the extra height.
There are some guys who use a battery grip to save their battery - less recharging -.
I suppose most of us don't do that. Better take an extra battery in case you need one. To boost the workflow you can use a quick CF card with 90mb/sec. Battery grips give torque on the system, Nikon ones tend to bend out of the vertical.
So I personally do not use a battery grip.