What about a better compact camera plate -- replace T-20 and T-30

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Thread: What about a better compact camera plate -- replace T-20 and T-30

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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemonDuck View Post
    And Nick made it very clear that with CNC and a properly designed, parametrized program, you can make plates on demand and not have to stock any plates if you don't want to.
    I guess you are refering to the 360P thread in panoguide. I was just saying about CAD which accounts for just <1% of work to manufacture a product.



    nick



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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terrywoodenpic View Post
    It is very easy to take an impression of the base of any camera with polymorph (I know Nick has some) This can be used to mold, using resin or other materials, on a one off basis. specials like this can never be cheap but they could be affordable. In the same way dental plates are affordable. (could even use the same material.)
    The base of the unit would be common to all, it is only the surface fitting that would change.
    With a little of effort, the T-adapter is very customizable. I have ordered a few kg of polymorph. any one interest to get a small sample can contact me via email/ pm.

    NIck



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  3. #18

    Quote Originally Posted by nick fan View Post
    With a little of effort, the T-adapter is very customizable. I have ordered a few kg of polymorph. any one interest to get a small sample can contact me via email/ pm....NIck
    I agree, the combo of the default T-adapter and a polymorph camera base fitting could be a good solution for people with trouble to remount the compact camera in the proper position.
    Polymorph is easy to use and I think anyone with moderate skills can use it to make a molded base.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfcBWnOqr6s

    Wim
  4. #19

    You all are visualizing a very complicated plate and customizing procedure. It looks a lot simpler to me. What I have suggested is a simple plate with two holes (or one slot and one hole) and a lip at the back.

    One hole is for a countersunk machine head screw to screw the plate to the camera using the camera's tripod hole. The other hole is threaded and exactly on the optical center line of the camera -- that's the hard part. Getting the mounting hole on the optical center line. The lip at the back is to align the camera square on the plate. The slot would be exactly perpendicular to the lip at the back.

    To use you put a machine screw into the slot. Push the lip of the plate snugly against the back edge of the camera and tighten. Then put the plate on the NNXXX arm and insert the mounting knob and tighten down. It's that simple.

    The plate doesn't even need to be painted. The stock for the plate has the countersunk hole or slot and the lip. It's a blank and then for the second hole is drilled and threaded at a precise location so that the optical center line is centered on the NNXXX arm.

    You could hire a college student to do them with the proper jigs and a drill press. I could do it myself if I had the tools. I don't have the tools is why I'm asking.

    You guys are making it sound like it's a solution to global warming. It's not that complicated.....

    DD
    Last edited by DemonDuck; 10-10-2010 at 09:58 AM.
  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemonDuck View Post
    One hole is for a countersunk machine head screw to screw the plate to the camera using the camera's tripod hole. The other hole is threaded and exactly on the optical center line of the camera -- that's the hard part. Getting the mounting hole on the optical center line. The lip at the back is to align the camera square on the plate. The slot would be exactly perpendicular to the lip at the back.

    To use you put a machine screw into the slot. Push the lip of the plate snugly against the back edge of the camera and tighten. Then put the plate on the NNXXX arm and insert the mounting knob and tighten down. It's that simple.
    That is what the new T-adapter II does exactly. Because some cameras are not flat at the back, I try to use 2 round pins instead. I can also make a flat plastic bar which will work better if the camera is flat at the back.

    By custom plates, I mean plates attached to the camera permanently. They are contoured so that battery door is free to open and close.

    nick



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  6. #21

    Quote Originally Posted by nick fan View Post
    That is what the new T-adapter II does exactly. Because some cameras are not flat at the back, I try to use 2 round pins instead. I can also make a flat plastic bar which will work better if the camera is flat at the back.

    By custom plates, I mean plates attached to the camera permanently. They are contoured so that battery door is free to open and close.

    nick
    The problem with the T-II adapter is the same as the problem with the T-20 and T-30. You have to eyeball the alignment. There is no guarantee that you are putting the camera on square with the optical center line exactly over the center of the NNXXX arm.

    And your description of custom plate is nothing like my idea. I repeat. It's a simple plate with two holes or a slot and a hole and a lip at the back. Think simpler.

    DD
  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemonDuck View Post
    The problem with the T-II adapter is the same as the problem with the T-20 and T-30. You have to eyeball the alignment. There is no guarantee that you are putting the camera on square with the optical center line exactly over the center of the NNXXX arm.

    And your description of custom plate is nothing like my idea. I repeat. It's a simple plate with two holes or a slot and a hole and a lip at the back. Think simpler.

    DD
    why not use a ruler or any other tools needed for the correct alignment? It needs to be done only once. Compared to my trouble of doing this for you, it is much easier and cost effective for you to do it.
    The major cost of making custom plate are
    1. cost of a camera
    2. time to work out the critical dimensions
    3. inventory and risk of non-selling inventory.

    No matter how simple is the design, I can't reduce these major cost. So if I were to make custom plates, I will make it as good as possible and sell them for good prices.


    Nick



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  8. #23

    Ok, this discussion is going nowhere. I'll say no more.....
  9. #24

    Here is a question I received from a customer can someone help me with an answer?
    "Q:
    can you please give me some information: - i use a 5D Mk II with an external battery grip (not original). - the mounting scre on this battery grip is not centered with the optical axis of the lens (like on smaller cams). Questions: 1) is your offered t-30 adaptor strong enough to handle the weight of a Canon 5D II-camera with lenses (800g for body plus 300g for battery grip plus about 1000g for the attached lens? 2) Is it possible to mount on this battery grip? Dimensions (the mounting screw is center): width: right 3,2" (8 cm), left 2,6" (6,5cm) from the front: 1,1" (2,8cm) to the back: 1,5" (3,8cm) is this the original adaptor or a copy/rebuild version? If it is possible and you have a battery grip like this, please can you send me a photo to: XXXX@XXXXXX.com Please let me know! Thanks in advance! "
    Last edited by Vincèn; 10-13-2010 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Please don't post emails directly in forum to avoid spam !
  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthBayPanos View Post
    Here is a question I received from a customer can someone help me with an answer?
    "Q:
    [B] can you please give me some information: - i use a 5D Mk II with an external battery grip (not original). - the mounting scre on this battery grip is not centered with the optical axis of the lens (like on smaller cams). Questions: 1) is your offered t-30 adaptor strong enough to handle the weight of a Canon 5D II-camera with lenses (800g for body plus 300g for battery grip plus about 1000g for the attached lens? 2) Is it possible to mount on this battery grip?
    Yes the new T-adapter will support the grip fine.

    Nick



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  11. #26
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    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
    Posts: 1,734

    Hi,

    your client has to be aware, that the lower rail setting will change for the height of the battery grip to the right, which means you should be sure the lower rail is long enough to take the extra height.

    There are some guys who use a battery grip to save their battery - less recharging -.
    I suppose most of us don't do that. Better take an extra battery in case you need one. To boost the workflow you can use a quick CF card with 90mb/sec. Battery grips give torque on the system, Nikon ones tend to bend out of the vertical.

    So I personally do not use a battery grip.

    Regards,
    Heinz
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