Nikon D90 and Nikon VR ED 24-120 lens

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  1. Nikon D90 and Nikon VR ED 24-120 lens

    #1

    I bought the NN3-MKII for my Nikon D90 and Nikon VR ED 24-120 3.5-5.6 lens. The upper arm does not stay in place (it keeps coming down). The camera lens combination weight less than 3 pounds. In selecting the NN3 pano head I followed the product selector page of the website. Can anybody give me advise on what I am doing wrong? Where I can find the right settings for this camera lens combination?
  2. #2
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    Join Date: Sep 2009
    Location: Los Angeles, CA
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    This is a common issue when you use a full sized DSLR on the NN3. I used a Nikon D70 and a Nikkor 10.5 lens with the same result. If your NN3 is not that old, they may take it back and apply a credit to a NN5 purchase. The NN5 has a locking mechanism on the upper arm. It does not slip.
  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by angelpimen View Post
    I bought the NN3-MKII for my Nikon D90 and Nikon VR ED 24-120 3.5-5.6 lens. The upper arm does not stay in place (it keeps coming down). The camera lens combination weight less than 3 pounds. In selecting the NN3 pano head I followed the product selector page of the website. Can anybody give me advise on what I am doing wrong? Where I can find the right settings for this camera lens combination?
    The 3 pound limit is just a general recommendation. It depends on the center of mass of the lens-camera combination. For a zoom lens that has a NPP close to 100mm setting, NN5/5L is a much better choice.


    Nick



    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.
  4. #4
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    Hi,

    I tested D90 Nikkor 18-200 VRII on NN3 MKII for URS. This lens has similar dimensions and weight like your lens. My combi worked, but you have to be aware not to push down when you change zoom or something else. Arrange everything, set to 0° and fix the screw tight. Use remote control to avoid pushing down by pressing shutter release. This combi is at the borderline to be used on NN3. As mentioned, NN5 is an option.

    For D90 use 56 with NN3 MKII for LRS and start at 90 for URS and work forward at zoom 24. Besides one lens, most of DX zoom 24 settings work around 93 -95.

    URS : When reference point moves with the camera while turning, move forward, against, you have to go backwards. Fine tune with 1mm settings.
    LRS : When the tooth of the saw cuts to the right, move to the right, when it cuts to the let, move the camera to the left.

    http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162 for LRS Test

    http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

    Always test your own equipment for settings.

    Regards,

    Heinz
    Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-16-2010 at 10:50 PM.
  5. #5

    Quote Originally Posted by DennisS View Post
    This is a common issue when you use a full sized DSLR on the NN3. I used a Nikon D70 and a Nikkor 10.5 lens with the same result. If your NN3 is not that old, they may take it back and apply a credit to a NN5 purchase. The NN5 has a locking mechanism on the upper arm. It does not slip.

    I have seen the reports here about this and I do not think this has anything to do with weight limits, but more about how you expect it to work.
    I used the NN3 for several years with the 5D and never had problems like this. You just need to tighten the knob every time you move it.

    When I got the NN5 I wanted it to work a little different as it also worked the same way. I just added a single washer of the very thin plastic ones and that made it possible to tighten the knob exactly to a friction that makes it possible to move it around without readjustment. I can now take 20 panoramas with turns to +70 for zenith and to -60 for my nadir without any tightening. I can also tighten it just enough to make panos from a pole and take the zenith or even multirow from ground using a string to drag the spherical arm into position.

    I just checked my old NN3 and found that under the knob there is only 1 single thick washer. I do not know if this is the same today however I can see that you can not move the arm at all without re tightening the knob.
    I exchanged the thick washer with 2 of the very thin large plastic washers which was supplied with the head.
    Now it works just the same as the NN5 and I can turn it and the knob rotates with the arm.

    Hans
  6. #6
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    Angelpimen,

    before you start changing your equipment following advices based on old equipment, here is the set up of the up to date NN3 MKII. This works for me with D90 and 18-200 VRII, a lens similar to yours in weight and dimensions. The well fixed knob holds the upper arm in position. I re tested this for you this morning. If any questions are left, feel free to ask me.

    Heinz
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  7. #7
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    "The right tool for the job"

    If users are having issues with the upper arm slipping, that means the NN3 is not the right tool for the job. Fanotech continues to offer the NN3 because under the right conditions, with the correct camera/lens, it gets the job done quite nicely with no fiddling about with the adjustment knob.

    I originally purchased a NN3 and was immediately disappointed that I had to fiddle with the knob every time I did a pano. It got to the point that I had to position the upper arm above horizontal, tighten the knob, and then push down on the upper arm in order to completely lock the upper arm. I ended up taking parts from the spare parts bag and creating a second rotator for the upper arm. No more slipping plus I now had indexing.

    I purchased a used Kaidan Quick Pan Pro. The difference was night and day! No fiddling about with modifying anything. The locking mechanism made taking panos more of a joy. The Kaidan can be used to anchor the Titanic. It is one big beast. It is designed for a different market than the NN3, so the comparison is apples/oranges. That is where the NN5 comes in.

    If adding washers and fiddling with the adjustment knob is not a big deal for the photographer, then the NN3 will work just fine. It does a good job of keeping the camera in the correct position. If the photographer wants to spend more time taking pictures rather than messing with equipment, then the NN3 is not the right tool for the job.

    Since the original complaint is that the upper arm slips (and this is not the first time we have heard this complaint) and the NN3 is not that old, a very good option is to return it and purchase a model that locks the upper arm.
  8. #8
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    before you start changing your equipment following advices based on old equipment
    Very well stated Heinz. My own experience and advice is also based on old equipment and should be viewed as such.
    Last edited by DennisS; 08-17-2010 at 07:50 AM.
  9. #9

    Dennis

    I do not know what washers you had but it sounds like it was the hard thick one which was on mine. I just exchanged it to the thin black one which is on Heinz image and the problem is gone.
    As I said the problem was very similar with my new NN5 and I had to exchange the washer. I do not remember how it looked exactly before but I had same problem as you describe for the NN3.

    The difference in construction between the NN3 and NN5 is very small. It should not make much difference.

    I just checked the NN3 using my 5D + a large heavy lens (1650 gram in all) at maximum 105mm. I can not in any way initiate the problem if I use 1 or 2 of the thin plastic washers.

    Hans
  10. #10
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    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
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    Hi Guys,

    I tried to find out how fridge and grip of upper rail and the knob is working. So I took it apart and had a closer look to it.

    On the upper rail I recognized a high gloss smaller ring and a lower gloss wider ring impressing around the small one. This means there is different grip from the inside ring to the outside one. So I had a look to the inside of my mounting knob to find areas corresponding to the different glossy areas on the rail. And yes, you can find them. Around the smaller ring of the knob we find a wider one around it, a small plastic ring added to the knob. These means, that the inner ring gives more friction than the wider plastic ring added to the knob. But also, that the surface of the plastic ring does not deliver the friction it could do, the grip works with max of 50% as it could do. And then the secret around it. The plastic ring was lower than the inner ring. So when we fix the knob, possible grip is reduced by this. To use the whole possible area inner and outer ring should be flat.

    But when the inner ring is higher than the outer one, does not matter how many washer we place, most grip is still delivered by the inner ring. Plus, very small differences between the handles outside border to the inner ring and the depth of the rails border, so when this is worn out bit, the border of the knob may stop on the rails border. Fixed tight, very tiny little room.

    To open up space and set the grip to the outer ring, I took off the plastic ring from the knob, cut a bigger hole into my used washer, placed it under the plastic ring. Reassembled the knob, placed a new washer between rail and knob, and received much more grip. I suppose there might be differences in thickness of the plastic ring because of production. Nick might have a look to this.

    Till now, my NN3 worked well with a hardly fixed knob. But now, it even works better.

    Cheers,

    Heinz

    BTW: can not upload all my pics: 1. knob with re assembled plastic ring raised by old washer 2. Inner ring gloss impression 3. Knob with plastic ring taken away.

    Is there any "Help" on how to delete uploaded files etc?
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    Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-17-2010 at 11:42 AM.
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