I have a 7D + Sigma 8mm and was wondering what you thought would be a better option for vfx work (IBL), since im using the fisheye on a cropped sensor. The NN5 or the R1?
I've read suggestions to tilt up 5 degrees to cover the zenith better but obviously this means less coverage on the nadir.
I'm after something that is hopefully repeatable in PTGui and that I won't have to worry about too much when on set.
I really like the sound of both nodal ninja products, however i'm wondering what the least amount of pics I can take for time purposes. I wonder if 4 pics around at 5 degree up and then a 5th 90 degree down nadir?
The only advantage for you in getting the R1 is to minimize setup time. The benefit of staying with the NN5 will be flexibility to use other lenses. With the Tokina 10-17mm on the 7D you will however have the issue of closing the zenith area which means re-setting the R1s nodal point for every zenith shot. So my advice is stay with the NN5.
Since you already have the Tokina 10-17mm then stick with it over the Sigma 8mm as it outperforms the Sigma 8mm being a 10mm. Of course you need to take more shots but you gets a higher resolution image.
Sigma 8mm on the 7D is great for 360 HDRs, i'm not particularly after insane res panos.
It's trying to find the right balance between res and time efficiency, and the 10mm would just mean too much time spent on set- but definitely agree it would provide better res.
Badders on your point about the nadir shot- I'm confused as to what really is the difference between doing a nadir on a R1 or NN5- either way you have to move the tripod to account for the offset?
I'm confused as to what really is the difference between doing a nadir on a R1 or NN5- either way you have to move the tripod to account for the offset?
When you tilt the R1 down to take the nadir:
1. The Nodal Point changes. (OK - NPP for you purists!...)
2. You can't tilt the R1 directly down over the top of the tripod.
It's possible to create a nadir shot on a NN3 or NN5 by taking 2 x shots pointing straight down onto the tripod at 180 degs apart. With these images blended in your stitching software you will see only the circle of the pano head base plus the three tripod legs. So it's relatively easy to remove these by using the clone tool in Photoshop. You can't do this at all with the R1 because of my points above.
I've decided on the NN5 with the nadir adapter and arca swiss mount.
Badders you mention shooting 2 images straight down?
My understanding was 4 shots around (7d + sigma 8mm) and then 1 straight up for zenith and then 1 straight down for nadir.
Any reason on shooting 2 down? Didn't quite understand your point
Sorry if i'm missing something
For least amount of pics with time constraint it has to be the R1 set to 5 degs up with the Sigma 8mm. 4 shots around at 90 degs. But.... You can't take the nadir using the R1. Well, you can but unless you're going to use PTGUIs viewpoint correction then forget it as it's too difficult a process. If you need to include a nadir then get the NN5 with the nadir adaptor.
Hey There im currently using the same setup for vfx work also....at the moment im using the NN5L with a typical tripod i have atatched the indent ring for 4 around 1 up and 1 down and then i take a free hand to paint away the tripod this at this point has never failed in PTgui and they have stitched perfectly every time, however im not really pushing the limits of pano.