Which NN for VFX? Using 7D + Sigma 8mm
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  1. Which NN for VFX? Using 7D + Sigma 8mm

    #1

    Hey guys

    I have a 7D + Sigma 8mm and was wondering what you thought would be a better option for vfx work (IBL), since im using the fisheye on a cropped sensor. The NN5 or the R1?
    I've read suggestions to tilt up 5 degrees to cover the zenith better but obviously this means less coverage on the nadir.

    I'm after something that is hopefully repeatable in PTGui and that I won't have to worry about too much when on set.
    I really like the sound of both nodal ninja products, however i'm wondering what the least amount of pics I can take for time purposes. I wonder if 4 pics around at 5 degree up and then a 5th 90 degree down nadir?


    Cheers!

    Brendan
  2. #2

    Hi
    I have a similar question. I am using Canon 7D and the NN5 - Is there any reason why I should switch to R1? Would I have an advantage? Or should I stick with the NN5?

    BTW I am using the Tokina 10-17mm - how is the Sigma 8mm on the Canon 7D?

    Regards
    Kai
  3. #3
    Users Country Flag badders's Avatar
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    Location: East Kilbride, Scotland
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    The only advantage for you in getting the R1 is to minimize setup time. The benefit of staying with the NN5 will be flexibility to use other lenses. With the Tokina 10-17mm on the 7D you will however have the issue of closing the zenith area which means re-setting the R1s nodal point for every zenith shot. So my advice is stay with the NN5.

    Since you already have the Tokina 10-17mm then stick with it over the Sigma 8mm as it outperforms the Sigma 8mm being a 10mm. Of course you need to take more shots but you gets a higher resolution image.



    Badders
  4. #4

    Sigma 8mm on the 7D is great for 360 HDRs, i'm not particularly after insane res panos.
    It's trying to find the right balance between res and time efficiency, and the 10mm would just mean too much time spent on set- but definitely agree it would provide better res.

    Badders on your point about the nadir shot- I'm confused as to what really is the difference between doing a nadir on a R1 or NN5- either way you have to move the tripod to account for the offset?
  5. #5
    Users Country Flag badders's Avatar
    Join Date: Jan 2009
    Location: East Kilbride, Scotland
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    Quote Originally Posted by sealz View Post
    I'm confused as to what really is the difference between doing a nadir on a R1 or NN5- either way you have to move the tripod to account for the offset?
    When you tilt the R1 down to take the nadir:

    1. The Nodal Point changes. (OK - NPP for you purists!...)
    2. You can't tilt the R1 directly down over the top of the tripod.

    It's possible to create a nadir shot on a NN3 or NN5 by taking 2 x shots pointing straight down onto the tripod at 180 degs apart. With these images blended in your stitching software you will see only the circle of the pano head base plus the three tripod legs. So it's relatively easy to remove these by using the clone tool in Photoshop. You can't do this at all with the R1 because of my points above.



    Badders
  6. #6

    I've decided on the NN5 with the nadir adapter and arca swiss mount.
    Badders you mention shooting 2 images straight down?
    My understanding was 4 shots around (7d + sigma 8mm) and then 1 straight up for zenith and then 1 straight down for nadir.
    Any reason on shooting 2 down? Didn't quite understand your point
    Sorry if i'm missing something

    Brendan
  7. #7
    Users Country Flag badders's Avatar
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    For least amount of pics with time constraint it has to be the R1 set to 5 degs up with the Sigma 8mm. 4 shots around at 90 degs. But.... You can't take the nadir using the R1. Well, you can but unless you're going to use PTGUIs viewpoint correction then forget it as it's too difficult a process. If you need to include a nadir then get the NN5 with the nadir adaptor.



    Badders
  8. #8
    Users Country Flag
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Location: Netherlands
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    Brendan,

    For the Zenith you have to take more than one shot.
    When you shoot down, you will see your tripod. Actually we want to see what is below the tripod and stitch this to the pano.

    In former times - the time before the nadir adaptor - you had to shoot 2/3 shots to get rid of the tripod.

    1. Camera 90° down.
    2. Rotator turned around by 180°.

    Then mask the tripod in photoshop, still something is missing so you have to "clone stamp" the rest.

    3. Handheld shot 90° down.

    With this shot you can stitch the three without extra clone stamping, which sometimes might be difficult.

    Now it is simpler with the new Nadir Adaptor:

    1. 90° down

    2. Swing the adaptor to the outside after having placed e.g. a coin under your tripod to mark the rotation center.
    Move your tripod aside to center the lens axis to the coin and take second shot.

    Now you can alpha mask the tripod in PS, save as .tiff otherwise the alpha channel is not saved, and add these pictures to your stitching project.

    So now with your adaptor, you have to take 2 shots at -90°.

    Hope this helps.

    Heinz
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    Last edited by hindenhaag; 07-22-2010 at 01:11 AM.
  9. #9

    Hey There im currently using the same setup for vfx work also....at the moment im using the NN5L with a typical tripod i have atatched the indent ring for 4 around 1 up and 1 down and then i take a free hand to paint away the tripod this at this point has never failed in PTgui and they have stitched perfectly every time, however im not really pushing the limits of pano.

    cheers

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