NN Ultimate R1 for Nikon D3X & 16mm

[gcardinal]

Hi

I am about to order from NN, but I have a few options.

Option 1:
* Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 with D4 Rotator, Nikon 16mm Ring Clamp
* Nodal Ninja EZ-Leveler-II

Option 2:
* Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 with NO Rotator, Nikon 16mm Ring Clamp
* Nodal Ninja Rotator R-D3L 6-8-10 with built in new EZ-Leveler-II

Option 3:
* Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 with D4 Rotator, Nikon 16mm Ring Clamp

Which combination will be less problematic to use?.. I am mostly worry about:
* Taking nadir/zenith shots
* Camera hitting any part of construction
* Stability of the set

Currently I am shooting hand-hold, so all of NN products are new to me.
So I also wounder, do I really need EZ-Leveler-II ?..

Thank you!

[nick fan]

Hi
Which combination will be less problematic to use?.. I am mostly worry about:
* Taking nadir/zenith shots
* Camera hitting any part of construction
* Stability of the set

Currently I am shooting hand-hold, so all of NN products are new to me.
So I also wounder, do I really need EZ-Leveler-II ?..

If you are new to spherical panorama, I suggest you to buy full spherical pano head such as NN5 series.
Nadir/ zenith patching can be a challenge for R1/10 with full frame fisheyes.

Nick

[hindenhaag]

Hi,

like Nick, as a normal set up I'd recommend NN5 RD16 EZ-Leveller II for the D3x. This will offer you the change to step into higher resolutions with other than fisheye lenses. 14-24 is a nice one I like to use. 50mm/f1.4D another nice one.

Best choice for a "normal shooting site" is the 16mm. You have no problems shooting zenith and nadir.

Your question R1: for me best buy is your option 1.

Why? You need 6 around for 16mm. The reason I shoot with the R1 is light weight travel, 6 or better 4 shots because of the situation, very busy place, very crowded, when it is available, shooting on a pole.

The R-D3L won't help you to shoot less than 6 shots. I use a shaved 10.5 on the D3, I do not like the Sigma 8mm/f3.5 so much as the 10.5.

Tell us about your decision if you like and I can send you some more infos.

Heinz

[gcardinal]

If you are new to spherical panorama, I suggest you to buy full spherical pano head such as NN5 series.
Nadir/ zenith patching can be a challenge for R1/10 with full frame fisheyes.

Nick

thx for reply. I did consider NN5, and its great, but I just love the size and simplicity of R1.
And I will mostly use it for "small planets", like this one:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2444/...fc3c34b4_b.jpg

Previously I shot handhold, and fixed nadir / zenith in Photoshop.

But how hard is it to deal with Nadir / zenith on R1?..

Hi,

like Nick, as a normal set up I'd recommend NN5 RD16 EZ-Leveller II for the D3x. This will offer you the change to step into higher resolutions with other than fisheye lenses. 14-24 is a nice one I like to use. 50mm/f1.4D another nice one.

Best choice for a "normal shooting site" is the 16mm. You have no problems shooting zenith and nadir.

Your question R1: for me best buy is your option 1.

Why? You need 6 around for 16mm. The reason I shoot with the R1 is light weight travel, 6 or better 4 shots because of the situation, very busy place, very crowded, when it is available, shooting on a pole.

The R-D3L won't help you to shoot less than 6 shots. I use a shaved 10.5 on the D3, I do not like the Sigma 8mm/f3.5 so much as the 10.5.

Tell us about your decision if you like and I can send you some more infos.

Heinz

Okay, I am kinda unsure now

I know I will only use D3x with 16mm fish-eye, maybe I will get a shaved 10.5mm.

The one thing that scares me with NN5 is alot of options on how to set it up. All parts are moving, and I just worry if it will be a bit to much to set-it up right every time.
On the other hand R1 looks a bit more straight-forward approach.

Also for a litl planet, outside, I will rarely need 100% of zenith, so maybe a bit of tilt to get nadir will do the trick?..

But of course if R1 is on the edge between "very simple, but only for a pro" I guess NN5 will be a better option.


PS: thanks for your time guys!

[nick fan]

Previously I shot handhold, and fixed nadir / zenith in Photoshop.

Also for a litl planet, outside, I will rarely need 100% of zenith, so maybe a bit of tilt to get nadir will do the trick?..

But of course if R1 is on the edge between "very simple, but only for a pro" I guess NN5 will be a better option.

R1/10 works very well for outdoor panos. It will suit for your purpose.
Since you have experience in patching handheld shots, you are not a newbie. R1 will just make your life easier. :-)


Nick