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Here’s another panorama taken with the Pentax Kx using a Samyang 8mm f/3.5 fisheye lens. The panoramic head used this time is a Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 with a Samyang 8mm Lens Ring: http://bit.ly/biddL8
You can download the original source images from the camera, along with a PTGUI project file used to stitch the scene from the main page link. The final panorama was taken into Photoshop for a spot of levels and curves adjustment.
Badders
Hi Andrew,
NIce job. Very creative use of rotator handle for zenith shot!Is it much better than the +90 deg zenith shot? I can see the NPP offset is smaller in your case.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Yes, I tried a vertical shot and had a few problems, then thought perhaps tilting back onto the handle would give a good oblique angle. Seems it does!
Badders
will different mount ofthe samyang 8mm differ the NPP? i got a canon mount and cant seem to be finding the right NPP, i think i need glasses...
yes, Canon and sony mount will have different NPP.Originally Posted by etegration
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
thanks nic!
I'll post my setting Monday. But it was simple to setup:
1. Set R1 to 0degs.
2. Positioned rig so vertical line in centre of viewfinder with another vertical line just touching edge further away (I used doorframe and wall edge in corridor)
3. Rotated rig left/right so 2 x verticals moved to left/right of viewfinder
4. Moved lens fore/aft as I did this, adjusting until there was no shift visible on left/right of viewfinder
5. Locked lens ring positon
Total time: 5 mins max.
Note: You have to set the position for whichever angle the lens is tilted to.
Badders
so sorry to post it here, will remove it later if it's ok. i tried for 30 mins or so now but stitching still causing errors. please ignore the unshaved hood, getting it shaved tomorrow.
looks ok?
Errr.....
Ok, let's start again.
1. You can't stitch images if you've got a full frame camera and you've got the Samyang 8mm with the lens hood attached.
2. No, don't position the rig so you have two verticals, both AWAY from the lens and close to each other (but still far apart)....
Here's a good tutorial showing you what to do:
http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
It even refers to setting the R1. Pay close attention to item 4. which shows a piece of tape on a window with a vertical far away being used as the two verticals....
Badders
Just follow John's excellent tutorial.
You can get the NPP for 3 shots around (for shaved Samyang on FF sensor) by mounting the camera in landscape position. After shaving the lens, you mount the camera in portrait position again. You can also try +5 deg tilt.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Thank you both very much. i'll remove the test shots so as not to disrupt viewing of badder's great pano.
check this as well from a discussion from yesterday:
Re: Canon 7D + Batt Grip + NN5 + Sigma 8mm : Rail Settings ?
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2010, 06:13:11 AM »
Heinz, When I set up my panohead in 10 minutes, it was of course not the first time I had done this, but the particular fisheye lens and camera makes no difference. The procedure is basically simple and straightforward and requires virtually no technical expertise whatever. When you have done it once, you can certainly do it in little more than 10 minutes. The only action needed is to view the entrance pupil and centralize it by (1) sliding the vertical rail sideways (horizontal position), (2) rotating the camera on it's mounting screw to the upper rail (vertical position). The centralized position must be maintained when the upper and lower rails are both rotated through 180 degrees. Then (3) adjust the position on the upper rail to centralize the entrance pupil when the panohead has been rotated from the straight ahead position through half of the normal yaw increment used when taking a panorama. No special skill is needed to judge if the entrance pupil is centrally positioned in an improvised sight, nor what action is needed to take if it isn't. For a sight, I used an empty ballpoint pen barrel taped to a pan & tilt head on a cheap spare tripod, which takes no time at all to set up. But you can maybe do something like this with a broom handle taped or tied to a chairback, with the pen barrel secured to a thin card slide by an elastic band:
http://www.johnhpanos.com/sight.jpg
But you can easily devise something from things found in any household, like a needle in a strip of cardboard illustrated in my tutorial, where full details are to be found: http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm.
John
Besides the thing that finding an NPP with fisheye lenses, with normal lenses I find my points in the way you do it. First shot straight forward, second shot to the left, third shot to the right. There is one important thing in the set up: try to get your lamp-stand as close to the lens as possible. And try to get a clear background. A reference point could be the stand touching the lower rail of the frame, but it is more difficult cause papers are hanging around.
Anyway, I measured the distance stand on frame to the right corner of it in photoshop with 200%. In both cases, to the left and the right your lamp-stand is moving against the direction of turning the camera.
Turning the cam to the right, the stand moves to the left and the same with the other direction. This means the NPP is in the front, so you have to move the camera backwards.
Camera ?, reference moves against the direction ? : NPP in front of the turning point of NN, camera has to be moved backwards ?
Camera ?, reference moves with the direction ? : NPP behind of the turning point of NN, camera has to be moved forward ?
Stitching photos with fisheye lenses you have to check that CP's are spread well in horizontal and vertical direction and do not sit in bulks. Optimizing in PTGui, use Heavy + Lens Shift to get rid of the last stitching errors.
Have a lock to the topic with D3S and 16mm fisheye.
Heinz
thank you too Heinz.
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