D5000 remote plug hits knob

[Judy-A]

I have a new problem with my NN3 MKII setup. I bought a corded remote, the Nikon MC-DC2 for my Nikon D5000. This remote has a rather long plug that sticks straight out of the side opposite the grip.

When the camera is being rotated into zenith-shooting position, the remote's plug hits the lower rotater tension knob of the NN3.

The plug has a bit of flexibility, so if I'm very careful I can ease the plug past the knob. However, I'm afraid that if the camera slips while being rotated I may break the plug or the camera's remote receptacle.

The D90 uses the same remote. I read on another forum that a D90 user broke his camera's remote receptacle by accidentally bending the plug.

I think a taller vertical rail would solve the problem, but I don't see one available.

Any suggestions?

Judy

[badders]

Not perfect solutions but here's a couple:

1. Possibly source a mini-USB cable extender than has a smaller plug connecting to the camera body. The extender then connects to your remote and hopefully you'll have enough clearance.
2. Instead of the remote cable release, us the camera's built in self timer...
3. Exchange the NN3 for a NN5! (Just kidding!)

[hindenhaag]

Hi,

1.) cause it its not screwed, disconnect the remote from the camera, rotate for zenith, connect and shoot.

2.) Look out for a wireless remote control with a small plug, Hama etc.

3.) Ask Nick if you can use a vertical rail from the NN5 to replace NN3.

4.) Loosen camera plate on the upper rail, move the camera as far as possible to rotating point, move the rail to zenith and move camera back to NNP and fix. Shoot, and if this is your last shot you can remove the remote cable.

I have to do so with D3 and 24-70mm/f2.8, cause with some zoom settings the back of the body bumps against the lower rail. But it is not so much work to move forward on the upper rail, go down for 90¬? shot, back to NNP and shoot.

Hope one of our hints lets you solve your problem.

Heinz

[Judy-A]

Thanks for the suggestions. You've given me lots of ideas to ponder.

As for moving the camera along the upper rail, I don't have room for the rail stop on the outside end, so I'd have to loosen the rail stop and lose my setting if I were to move the camera forwards.

The cord is not mini-USB. Attached is a picture of the plug. As far as I can tell it's unique to the Nikon D90 and D5000 cameras.

I've been scouring the internet for a third-party remote or extension cord with an angled plug. Almost all have the same long, straight plug. The only remote with an angled plug got a bad review and is heavily discounted on clearance, so it may not be worth the shipping and handling.

I do have the IR wireless remote as well as the corded remote. I experimented with that, but for this purpose it's way more trouble than using the self-timer.

I did discover that the GPS unit I've been eyeing, the Easytagger, has an angled plug that fits into the same receptacle. It comes with its own corded remote. That should solve the problem. It might be just the excuse I need to spend some more money.

I'd still be interested in getting a taller vertical rail if one is available.

[nick fan]

I have a new problem with my NN3 MKII setup. I bought a corded remote, the Nikon MC-DC2 for my Nikon D5000. This remote has a rather long plug that sticks straight out of the side opposite the grip.

When the camera is being rotated into zenith-shooting position, the remote's plug hits the lower rotater tension knob of the NN3.

The plug has a bit of flexibility, so if I'm very careful I can ease the plug past the knob. However, I'm afraid that if the camera slips while being rotated I may break the plug or the camera's remote receptacle.

The D90 uses the same remote. I read on another forum that a D90 user broke his camera's remote receptacle by accidentally bending the plug.

I think a taller vertical rail would solve the problem, but I don't see one available.

Any suggestions?

Judy

Try to reverse the direction of rotation. i.e. rotate the upper rail anti-clockwise. Many times, it works.
Your package is supplied with a M6 screw which was used to fix the rotator instead of the new knob. It will give you small extra clearance.
We are working on a nadir bracket which will raise up the upper rail by ~20mm. It may solve your problem.

Nick
PS NN5 vertical rail is not compatible with NN3.

[Judy-A]

Thanks for responding, Nick.

Unfortunately, my camera is too large to rotate anti-clockwise. The grip side of the camera hits the bottom rail.

If I simply remove the NN-stamped knurled knob, It doesn't make much difference, but adds a new concern. The sharp threads on the head of the remaining bolt may damage the rather delicate remote cord.

I don't have any M6 bolts on hand (lots of Imperial odds and ends, though) but I'll take a trip to the hardware store and see what I can find.

Your new nadir bracket sounds interesting. If it could provide and extra 20mm, that would be great.

[jwigum]

Regarding fastener hardware, you might want to take a look at McMaster:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-sock...-bolts/=5kumr1

[Judy-A]

Thanks for that jwigum. I'm pretty sure I can get a bolt locally. I haven't yet got around to shopping.

I noticed a flat bolt, not a knob, was used on this NN Store product page.

http://store.nodalninja.com/nn3_p/n3ii-rd8.htm

The only problem with removing the knob is that I wouldn't be showing off that pretty Nodal Ninja logo.

[Hugh]

Hello Judy

I use a Nikon ML-L3 remote with my Nikon D60 and according to these web sites, the unit is compatible with the Nikon D5000:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...VE5E90D58CDJGG
and
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-vLBRxZK...L3.html?tp=281

You may need to check with a Nikon dealer local to you if the ML-L3 can be used with the D5000 as it is not listed as an Optional Accessory on the Nikon web site for the D5000.

It does not work from directly behind the camera because the sensor is on the front, but I always use it when taking photographs for Spherical Panoramas with my NN3.

Best regards, Hugh.

[hindenhaag]

Hi,

nikon ML3 is compatible with the D5000.

www.dpreview.com/.../09041402nikond5000.asp

http://www.nikon.com/about/news/2009/0414_d5000_01.htm

Heinz

[Hugh]

Thanks for confirming the compatibility Heinz.

I would suggest that this is a good solution to your problem Judy as Heinz has found confirmation that the ML-L3 is compatible with the D5000.
"•Compatible with the optional ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control. There are two shutter release modes available when using the control: Quick mode for immediate triggering of the shutter release and Delayed mode, which delays triggering for two seconds."

The ML-L3 is quite small (60 x 28 x 6 mm) and the battery lasts very well - I have not had to change the battery yet although I have given the ML-L3 a lot of use and do carry a spare.

It also has the advantage that there are no wires connecting you to the camera and you can just stand near the camera and trigger the shutter by pressing the button on the ML-L3.
I have used mine some 10 metres from the camera.

Best regards, Hugh.

[Judy-A]

I have the ML-L3 remote, so I'll have to experiment with that. With the corded MC-DC2 remote, I had been setting the camera to continuous shooting and doing bracketed series. By holding down the button I could get three very fast shots -- good for moving clouds, etc.

I now have a Samyang 8mm fisheye lens which is fully manual. The corded remote doesn't work at all with this lens. I'll have to see if I can use the ML-L3 wireless remote in continuous mode, while keeping myself out of the picture.

Thanks very much for all the good suggestions. I'm dealing with a family member in hospital at the moment, so don't have time to experiment.

[hindenhaag]

All the best for your family member,

Heinz

[Hugh]

Hello Judy,

Sorry to hear about your family member being hospitalised and wish you both all the best.

Yes, I see what you mean about bracketing the exposure.
I think, from a quick look at the D5000 manual on line, that the D5000 behaves the same as the D60 with the ML-L3, which can only take a single shot each time the button is pressed, either immediately or after 2 seconds.

You can certainly keep yourself out of the picture with the ML-L3, even with a 180¬? fisheye lens, but I don‚Äôt think it will let you bracket the exposures.

Unfortunately this is something I cannot try with the D60 as one of its few shortcomings is that it does not have the ability to bracket exposures, which my D70 did, but it does have an Active D-Lighting option, which goes part way to solving this omission.

Best regards,
Hugh.

[hindenhaag]

Hi Judi and Hugh,

you are right with your comment about the ML-L3 remote. It only sends one short signal and the camera will release once. You can not shoot in continuos mode.

When bracketting, the camera will follow the chosen bracketting steps one after the other. You have to press 3 times for each shot when going for three steps.

Heinz