How do you take nadir and zenith shot with R1?
wilco
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How do you take nadir and zenith shot with R1?
wilco
for fisheye having >170 deg angle of view in the longer dimension of sensor, no zenith is needed. Just use enough tilt to cover it. You can take an extra zenith shot (off-set from NPP) by pointing to the lens up. Depending on the camera design, it will be 90 deg or close to 90 deg. You can take the nadir (off-set from NPP) by pointing the lens down, it will be -65 deg. You can also point the lens -90 deg. Just reverse the lens direction from the zenith shot. Of course, handheld shots are possible too.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Thanks for your reply. I have nikon 10.5mm fisheye. I have to take 6+1+1 with NN5. I am planning to do pole pano. Does R1 can lock at -90 for zenith shot? D200 with battery grip can do zenith -90 shot with R1?
Wilco
I have just emailed NN about the problem with R1 and Nikon D3X, there is a problem with the mechanics as you cannot drop the arm to +90deg without hitting the camera
sadly the rotator is too wide! yes I know it does not have to be +90deg but as the arm does not stop until it hits the arm end, this is a problem
I have now assembled the R1 with the adaptor so it is mounted perfectly on the R-D3L but the D3X still hitting the adaptor
I have suggested that the adaptor should be 10mm longer at the narrow end of it so the camera drops in.
Nikon D3X with 16mm AF, R1, -10 for 6 shots, +90 (well almost) shot for the Zenith and finally -60deg shot for the Nadir but move the tripod away(about a metre) - perfect
See Below
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This is a message to Nick Fan or anyone who is dealing with the manufacturing of these brilliant products
I have purchased last week the fantastic R1 with an adaptor so it can be fitted on the R-D3L, because it cannot be used with R-D4
This is by far the best combination I have ever seen and the fastest - a delight to work with
However there is a problem with D3X as it will not drop all the way down to get the Zenith
The side of the camera hit the rotators (R-D4 as well) and preventing the full Zenith shot
I would like to see this rectified as more and more professional photographers are using the Nikon D3X
The adaptor needs to be 10mm longer at the narrow top to overcome this
I would be delighted if I can have one as soon as possible
Erik Hoffman
www.hoffmanportraits.co.uk
HI Erik,
Thanks for the report. Our pole adapter will raise R1/10 tilt head by 10mm. I will also release a quick mount adapter which will raise it up by >25mm.
We more feedback from customers, I may make a longer advanced rotator to R1/10 adapter in the future.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Hallo Erik and Nick,
i have been busy with R1 - D3/D3x zenith shot and camera bumping into the rotator: I had the same problem with D3 Sigma 8mm 3,5. My R1 is screwed together that way, that the detend plunger is on the same side where the camera comes down for the 90 degree shot. I opened the two imbus screws aside the leveler bubble, move the top 180 degrees around, and refixed. Now the plate moves to the zenith position on the opposite side of the rotator knobs. I fixed the camera in portrait mode, grip of the body upside, and now i can freely reach my zenith at 90 degree without bumping into anything.
I did not try the nikkor 16mm/f2.8 fisheye cause i do not have an adaptor ring for this lens, just had a look to the sigma mounted to D3 compared with the 16mm nikkor and i suppose it would be nearly the same position. I think the 16 mm lens should work in the same way.
What do you think of this,
Heinz
Sorry but the Nikkor 16mm does not
Unfortunately the NNP is different so the lens has to be shifted a lot more on the slider so the problemis still there
I have ordered a monopole adaptor and longer screws and I will insert it between the R-D3 and the R1 and let you know if this help as the R1 will be then raised by 10mm
One more problem I have just discovered and very annoying is that you cannot use the remote trigger with 90deg Zenith shot
Erik
Hi Nick
I am in a process of manufacturing the final adaptor to be inserted between the R1 and the R-D3L
I will make it 30mm from the wider side up - higher, the base diameter will increase to 48mm and the center hole will be reduced to 13mm (it is a bit too wide and too close to the srew hole now.
In additition I will take off some 2mm from the centre core (the narrow part but not all the way up) to allow the camera to drop without touching it.
Not sure what can be done about the remote cord as this hits the main structure and looks too complicated to change but let me get the new adaptor finished first
Will see it on Friday and report to you
Erik