Has anyone else had a go at using Wimé─˘s excellent Tutorial for creating 3D Spherical Panoramas?
My first attempt failed because I was so used to PTGui making such a good job of blending the images and taking care of exposure differences that I didné─˘t head Wimé─˘s 3rd instruction and ended up with a 3D Spherical Panorama with vertical stripes with different exposures.
Fortunately, I was able to again get access to my subject and have another ago, this time locking down the exposure and white balance, and get success, which was very rewarding.
The 3D Spherical Panorama works, but for me the Mirror Ball images look really great in Anaglyph 3D.
I did have two problems along the way, and wonder if anyone out there has similar experiences of better solutions.
The first was shooting horizontally with a 10.5mm Nikon lens on an APS-C Nikon DSLR, which left me with é─˙holesé─¨ at the nadir and zenith.
The hole at the nadir was no problem as I usually fill this with a é─˙tripod capé─¨, but how to cope with the hole at the zenith?
My solution was to take é─˙normalé─¨ Spherical Panorama images, with the lens at the nominal Nodal Point (i.e. the gold ring), at the same time from exactly the same set up and create a é─˙normalé─¨ set of Cube Images as well as Cube Images from my Left and Right Equirectangular images.
I then blended in the roof from the normal Up Cube Image into the other two Up Cube Images, using distortion tool to make them fit, which seems to have worked reasonably well.
My next experiment will be to try tilting the camera up for a second set of images to fill the zenith hole and was wondering if anyone has actually tried this?
The second problem was that creating the Anaglyph in SteroPhoto Maker resulted in a é─˙busté─¨ where the two ends of the final Equirectangular image join because of the é─˙shifté─¨ applied.
My solution to this was to Resize the Equirectangular images (e.g. 8000 x 4000 to 8200 x 4000) giving a blank vertical strip at the right hand edge and Copy the strip at the left edge of the images into the strip on the right, use é─˙Easy Adjustmenté─Âé─¨ in SteroPhoto Maker to create an Anaglyph Equirectangular image, which I then cropped back to the original size (e.g. 8000 x 4000) from which I could create my Flash Panoramas. http://www.hugha.co.uk/StMary/3D-Panoramas/Index.htm
Using these é─˙solutionsé─¨ meant that producing a 3D Spherical Panorama was a very laborious operation, but rewarding, but I would like to hear from anyone who has also had a go with applying this technique which Wim has kindly shared with us.
I think it is great that you found your own solutions for the problems you encountered.
For the first problem you found a perfect solution, filling the zenith hole with a part of a "plain" pano is a good solution.
Tilting your camera and taking extra zenith shots will not bring the result you expect, I tried it myself but I didn't like the results, the reason is that it is impossible to patch a NPP offset shot image without getting huge errors in zenith.
You will not see the errors when you view the results in the "single" images but when you view them as stereo pair the 3D result will look awfull.
The second problem is most probably caused by a difference in exposure of the first and the last images, I experienced a nasty light/dark seem, a "bust" as you call it, a few times myself at the 360 seem.
When I checked the first and the last strips I found that due to changing light there was a very small difference in the exposure, the difference is hard or not at all to see when both images are displayed side by side but when you cut a strip out of one and place it on top of the other the difference is clearly visible.
When blending images in a normal pano you don't get any problem with this but when using strips that are connected even the smallest difference is visible.
The reason for this is the time between the first and the last shots, with so many shots it can takes several minutes to complete the shoot and when outdoor light is having impact on the scene (an outdoor shoot or an indoor shoot with windows) then it can happen that almost invisible and moving hazy clouds high in the sky are causing a difference in the exposure. You only can solve this by editing just like you did.
BTW, there are several ways to edit the seem, I prefer a smart blending of the first and/or the last strip with small parts that I take from another image and when the dark/light 360 seem is in the sky then it works best for me to use a clone brush.
PS, is it OK for you when I change the title of your posting a bit ?
As it is there are now 2 postings, mine and yours with the same title and that is confusing.
Let me know the alternative title and then I will change it.
Thank you for your very helpful comments.
I have not yet had an opportunity to try tilting the camera, but after your comments will now carry on with the method that you have described and with which I have produced a result.
I am happy for you to change the title to maybe:
"Success with creating a 3D panorama with a single camera and fisheye lens"
Sorry for using the same title, but when I tried to add my comment to your original posting the Forum suggested starting a new topic as the last message on your original title was some time ago, which is what I did.