import your pictures to PTgui and set exif data on "off" for the nikkor 16mm/f2.8fisheye. Choose full frame, leave the mm alone and align images. The program will find the right lens settings on its own and off you go stitching in some minutes.
Concerning the WB, specially in very sunny or indoor light situations, i found it useful to use an expo disc. Look up the greatest diameter of the lenses you have and buy this size of expo disc if you like to use it. If you use a smaller lens diameter, just place it on the front of the lens by hand and use the "pre" setting of the camera for WB. Just press the WB button for some time and the shoot the WB pre. Often you have much nicer colours with the pre set by expo disc. The only difficulty you find comes along with the 16mm fisheye lens cause of the front shape. Try to place your hand around the shaped sun protection to keep away light coming in from the side. Otherwise use a 50mm lens to shoot the WB and then change.
Your pitch settings are very good, specially the zenith one, cause you end up with connections to the ground without ending up with a cloudy sky and a lot of problems to stitch. Specially in windy situation with a lot of cloud movements.
its doing my head in, as these are the same setting for other panos I have done which seem perfect...
Jake, Since you have done exactly similar sitches before, use the project file from one of them as a template. Just load your latest images in as a new project and then goto File->Apply template and navigate to your old project file. The display in the Panorama Editor window should then already look good. To fine tune the alignment, you need to create control points, so switch into advanced mode and click on Control points->Generate Control Points.
Do a quick check of the control points by displaying the Control Points tab and skip along the pairs of overlapping images 0-1, 1-2, 2-3 etc. Check that points have been assigned for each pair and consider adding a few more points manually to improve the spread along the overlap if they are clumped in the middle. Then goto the Optimizer tab and click the Advanced button. Check the Field of view and the horizontal and vertical shift boxes, and the yaw, pitch and roll boxes for all images except for one image (usually image 0) , which will act as an anchor as it's position cannot then change. Then click the Optimize button.
What happens next depends on what result the optimizer reports. You want to aim for an average cp distance of 1 or less, and a maximum of <3, say. Investigate the placement of any points with large distances (as recorded in the Control Points table). After correcting/deleting bad points, re-optimize. You may want to try also including the lens parameters b and a in the optimization if necessary.
Thank guys , I was making a silly mistake and Heinz kindy sorted it out for me. Thank you Heinz!
On another note, HDR...... Ok I bracket my images and align them with Photomatix. Then when I have the set of HDR images I stitch them in PTQui....all's good. Then I do the Pano2VR 360 and the final result is ...err Ok. But what other ways can I do HDR to get better quality? Make an HDR image directly after the PTQui stitch or is there a way in PTQui? I can't seem to understand what the HDR facility in PTQui does?