I am still unable to find my upper rail settings, i think it might not even be in the upper rail setting range which max go to 107mm with the Camera plate attached.
It is easy enough to determine whether the required upper rail setting is within the available range. All you have to do is position the camera as far forward as possible on the top rail. Using the viewfinder, view a near object like a pole set against a distant background. Swing the panohead from side to side and note what happens to the apparent position of the pole relative to the background. As you rotate the panohead clockwise, the pole will appear to shift to the left, say. Do the same thing with the camera moved back as far as possible. As you rotate the panohead clockwise, the pole will now shift to the right (relative to the background). Provided the shifts are in opposite directions, then it will be possible to find an intermediate position where the shift is zero (or very nearly so) - i.e. the no-parallax point.
Hi john, thanks for the help, i can confirm at this point of time, that the tamron 10mm-24mm lens with D40 is not suitable for nodal ninja 3, the max of 107mm is very near to the entrance pupil, but the actual entrance pupil should be at 108 or 109mm.
Until now i am still unable to get perfect stitch in PTGUI no matter how hard i try.
So far have not heard or meet anyone with this camera and lens combination for 360VR, would be good to find one, and see how i can improve in stitching.
For the problem in stitching, i always encounter problem when my two rows join together in the center, bound to have parallax error. No matter how much controls point i add or delete those inaccurate points that PTGUI generate, i still can't get perfect stitches.
Anyone keen to help, i can send you the images i took and you can try to stitch it.
My workflow - 8 shots per row, (+45/-30) do not need to shoot zenith. Nadir is optional, as i just restrict the 360VR not to show the hole in the ground.
I have used a Sigma 10-20mm lens with my Nikon D60 and find that using the n=8 (45¬?) detent ring with 8 images horizontally, 8 images @ +45¬? and 8 images at -45¬? works well.
A zenith image helps with clouds etc., but is not usually necessary.
I see that John has offered to help you, but I am happy to look as well if you wish.
Thx for your quick response. That's how this forum works. And I know you are able to take brilliant pictures. Sometimes , like you, I take quick shots in my office with minor quality, no complaints till now.
Cause now we know: Users of NN3/CP/CP2 have to add 14mm to (H) to get the lower rail setting.
User of NN5/CP/Cp-2 have to add 13mm to (H) to get the lower rail setting.
I am right Hugh? Thx for response for my own question and the pictures as well. Your answer on this "thread already helped me. I just was thinking about the "offset" of the vertical rail in relation to the camera body. Cause on the wiki database you only can get the (H) measurement as information for different camera bodies. My conclusion: if I know (H), and I know the "offset of the vertical rail of NN3 and NN5", the camera should sit above the turning point concerning the lower rail setting.
I am right? I am quite sure....but...there was a song like "Am I wrong"..from Keb Mo, blues singer, brilliant for me, cause he knows "how to get a house in California".
The last conclusion: because of several circumstances, production, lens, camera body, sensor position in the individual camera body , etc., everybody is asked to test these settings and all the settings of any database with the own combination.
"We" only try to set you guys "up the road" as soon as possible to get into panorama photography with NN products. I believe, I should not repeat all the mistakes others have done already. So I try to listen and learn. So often I have to do things on my own. Which gives me experience and knowledge to deeper in this world of Panos. Step by Step.
Although as a Land Surveyor my life is about measurement I often find that a practical solution is easier to understand.
I have to confess that I am not sure what numbers I should be reading from the lower rail, which is why I made the photographs.
I would read this as 49mm - is this right?
To find the setting on the lower rail I would suggest the method in the NN3 manual of putting the camera vertically and getting the centre of the logo to match the centre of the lens, but my preferred method would be set up the camera on the NN3 and tripod and aim the centre of the lens at something vertical, say the edge of a door or a plumb bob if you have one, then sight the set up from the other side of the vertical line to see if the centre of the lens (identifiable by the aperture) is in line vertically with the ? symbol on the NN3, and move the vertical arm until it is.