Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 and R10 Ring Mount Pano Heads.

[Diegoto]

Hi guys,

I am in the process of learning how this whole system works. I am planing to buy an inexpensive ball head for easy adjustments on site. Unfortunately, I can not afford an EZ-Leveler yet.

• What is the R1 weight? (to figure out if the SBH-100 can handle my configuration)
• Would a ball head shift and ruin the NPP when rotating the head?
• Do I need quick release or this makes shift worse?

Thanks,

Diego

[nick fan]

Hi guys,

I am in the process of learning how this whole system works. I am planing to buy an inexpensive ball head for easy adjustments on site. Unfortunately, I can not afford an EZ-Leveler yet.

• What is the R1 weight? (to figure out if the SBH-100 can handle my configuration)
• Would a ball head shift and ruin the NPP when rotating the head?
• Do I need quick release or this makes shift worse?

Thanks,

Diego

Hi Diego,

An R1 with rotator D4 and lens ring will weight about 500g. Weight varies slightly for different lens mount.
You can use ball head and quick release. No effect on NPP as long as they are stead enough.
Bear in mind that R1/10 is a single row pano head. It work best for fisheye with focal length up to 13mm (35mm eq.). For longer focal length, more experience in stitching is needed.

Nick

[Diegoto]

Great! Thanks so much Nick

[philip]

Hello,

The R1 pano head is close to perfect for my needs. I use it mostly with a 0¬? tilt using a Nikkor 10.5 fisheye lens. I have tried to find the NPP in the case of tilt. I have tried the 2 tilt options +/- 15¬? you propose. I had no problem finding the NPP at +15¬? but at -15¬? the sliding bar seemed short by may be one cm. I wondered wether I did something wrong or if you had plans to lengthen a bit this bar in the future.

Thanks and congratulations for your products (I also have the NN5)

regards
Philip (Brittany, France)

[nick fan]

Hello,

The R1 pano head is close to perfect for my needs. I use it mostly with a 0¬? tilt using a Nikkor 10.5 fisheye lens. I have tried to find the NPP in the case of tilt. I have tried the 2 tilt options +/- 15¬? you propose. I had no problem finding the NPP at +15¬? but at -15¬? the sliding bar seemed short by may be one cm. I wondered wether I did something wrong or if you had plans to lengthen a bit this bar in the future.

Thanks and congratulations for your products (I also have the NN5)

regards
Philip (Brittany, France)

Hi Philip,

Thanks for your continuous support of Fanotec products.
You will be just fine to use -10 deg tilt. -15 deg will include more rotator footprint, which is not more productive. Since the lens ring also works for shaved Nikon 10.5mm on FX sensor, the sliding bar should not be longer. Otherwise, the footprint (image of sliding bar in this case) will be very large. Or I need to list separate model for regular and shaved Nikon 10.5mm. Unless I get more requests to use a longer bar for regular Nikon 10.5mm, I will keep it as is.

Nick

[philip]

Hi Nick

Thanks for your feedback. How do I set it to -10¬? ? Shall I drill a new hole ? Do I need to order something ?
rgds
philip

[nick fan]

Hi Nick

Thanks for your feedback. How do I set it to -10¬? ? Shall I drill a new hole ? Do I need to order something ?
rgds
philip

-10 deg is at opposite side of -15 deg. change the tilt knob to the other side to use it.


nick

[philip]

-10 deg is at opposite side of -15 deg. change the tilt knob to the other side to use it.


nick

Thanks
I had no problem finding the NPP at -10¬?
philip

[Diegoto]

Hi Guys,

I find very very useful the R1 for taking only 4 pictures with a Sigma 8mm. But still do not know how safe it is to stitch a 5th picture of the nadir. I seems to me this picture is not going to match with rest since it is by hand or with a horizontal post.
What do you guys do or recommend?
How difficult is it to stitch said off parallax point nadir with PTGui?
Is it possible to do it in a productive way?

Thanks

[nick fan]

Hi Guys,

I find very very useful the R1 for taking only 4 pictures with a Sigma 8mm. But still do not know how safe it is to stitch a 5th picture of the nadir. I seems to me this picture is not going to match with rest since it is by hand or with a horizontal post.
What do you guys do or recommend?
How difficult is it to stitch said off parallax point nadir with PTGui?
Is it possible to do it in a productive way?

Thanks

some tutorials for you.
using ptgui Pro and viewpoint correction to patch nadir in ptgui directly.
http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgvpt.htm

Using photoshops or other programs that support layers.
http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/PS4.html
Also see other technique of taking nadir shots.
http://www.rosaurophotography.com/ht...n3_review.html
scroll down to bottom of page. Same technique can be applied using R1.

Nick

[Diegoto]

Thanks so much Nick. I will take a look

[mlearmonth]

On the Nodal Ninja website, where do I find the * Optional advanced rail stop to remember NPP setting. mentioned in the R10 description and how much does it cost?

Mike Learmonth

[hindenhaag]

I think still in development. I think Nick wants to be sure about the NPP settings. There will be a clip which is placed in the rail of the lens ring.

Sure Nick will tell you something more when he sees your question.

Heinz

[nick fan]

On the Nodal Ninja website, where do I find the * Optional advanced rail stop to remember NPP setting. mentioned in the R10 description and how much does it cost?

Mike Learmonth

To make a custom rail stop, you need to supply us your settings. I will make one for you for $9.95.
It turns out to be a challenge to manage all possible custom rail stops. There can be lots of settings and hence lots of models. So I switch to a universal design which is still under development.


Nick

[hindenhaag]

Hello,

I have a question to my experienced colleagues: what focus setting to you tape before you mount it to the lens ring of the R1 for Sigma 8mm/f3.5 and shaved Nikkor 10.5 for Full frame like D3.

Thanks in advance,

Heinz