NN3 + Canon 5D + 17-40mm + 20mm T-adapter = ?

[slippy71]

I was informed that in order to shoot a Canon 5D with 17-40mm lens set at 17mm that I would need the 20mm t-adaptor as only using this adaptor would I be able to set the camera at 111mm on the upper rail (this is the suggested setting as per http://www.nodalninja.com/html/canon_settings.html). I wasn't told, however, how to mount the 20mm t-adaptor, so I guessed:



Question #1: Did I mount the 20mm t-adaptor to my camera correctly?

This brings me to question #2: Which hole do I use on the 20mm t-adaptor to mount it to the upper rail (refer again to the photo above)? I guessed the hole closer to the camera--the one with the center-line mark. If I did actually mounted the plate correctly, please confirm that it is now properly aligned at 111mm as it's supposed to be:



Lastly, the upper rail, when the gear is mounted, slips slowly even after I tighten as best I can. Solution?:



Thank you for your help--I need it.

-Peter

[nick fan]

Question #1: Did I mount the 20mm t-adaptor to my camera correctly?

yes

This brings me to question #2: Which hole do I use on the 20mm t-adaptor to mount it to the upper rail (refer again to the photo above)? I guessed the hole closer to the camera--the one with the center-line mark. If I did actually mounted the plate correctly, please confirm that it is now properly aligned at 111mm as it's supposed to be:

it doesn't matter which hole.



Lastly, the upper rail, when the gear is mounted, slips slowly even after I tighten as best I can. Solution?:

Sorry, there is no solution. Your gear has reached the upper limit of NN3. If you just buy your NN3, consider a return for upgrade to NN5/5L.

Nick

[slippy71]

Well, for whatever reason, my panos are off. I must be doing something wrong with the gear. Are you sure?

[John Houghton]

Well, for whatever reason, my panos are off. I must be doing something wrong with the gear. Are you sure?

You can easily adjust the settings to find the optimum no-parallax position yourself. You can do it accurately in 10 minutes or so, once you are familiar with the procedure. See http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm.

John

[Bill Bailey]

Well, for whatever reason, my panos are off. I must be doing something wrong with the gear. Are you sure?

Hi slippy71,
I have used (but since sold) the 5D w/17-40mm lens on NN2's and early NN3's and before we had NN5's. While the gear "will" work because it is near the upper limits of weight and adjustment range of NN3 you will need to tighten things up a bit more, however not excessively. This is especially important when securing the t-adapter to the base of the camera. We suggest folks consider the NN5 with this equipment but if you are confined to weight constraints and/or budget these are minor issues you will unfortunately have to work with. If you purchased from the website you have 30 days to work with it like you are doing. We have some NN5L packages priced at $299.95 - excellent value. Touch bases with me off site to work out a trade up if this is of interest to you - bill[at]nodalninja[dot]com.
thx
Bill

[gt_nninja]

[font=Verdana][b][b]I was informed that in order to shoot a Canon 5D with 17-40mm lens set at 17mm that I would need the 20mm t-adaptor as only using this adaptor would I be able to set the camera at 111mm on the upper rail (this is the suggested setting as per http://www.nodalninja.com/html/canon_settings.html). I wasn't told, however, how to mount the 20mm t-adaptor, so I guessed:

I just trimmed the rubber washer so I am close to 111 and my panos work out just fine. I use hugin if that matters.



Now when is that QR clamp coming out that can take arca/RRS plates.

[nick fan]

Now when is that QR clamp coming out that can take arca/RRS plates.

still under production. but should be ready in a month.
you won't be able to reach 105mm on NN3 upper rail though.


Nick

[slippy71]

GT NNINJA--

THANK YOU SO MUCH. Problem solved.

-Peter

[gt_nninja]

You're quite welcome.

George

[ren]

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but as it seems your problem was solved, and I have a similar problem therefore I thought it best to consolidate.

I had previously taken pictures with a Canon 5D + 17-40mm lens WITHOUT a T-adapter. And according to this page (http://www.nodalninja.com/camera_list.html) it is not needed. Of course according to this page (http://www.nodalninja.com/html/canon_settings.html) you need to go out to 111 on the upper rail. Additionally, about a year ago when the NN3MKII was new, I purchased it and did some panos that worked out fine. Now to be honest I didn't research the entrance pupil (no parallax point), I simply went off of the numbers that were posted at the time, but if I recall the website didn't say 111 at because as we know it's not possible.

So my question then is #1: did the numbers change for this setup?
Question #2: Do I in fact need a t-adapter? If so, has this always been the case?
Question #3: I can get the upper rail out to 108, will this be acceptable with stitching software (within 3mm)

I'm trying to get grips on the fact that I previously was able to do a pano with my setup, and now it appears I'm not able to because I don't have the T-adapter.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
ren

My setup: Canon 5D w/ 17-40mm, no battery grip, on a manfrotto 3021BPRO w/ a 486RC2 ball head.

[Wide-Eyed]

Well, for whatever reason, my panos are off. I must be doing something wrong with the gear.

Have you ADDED the backset of the t-adapter to your measurement ? Your camera looks like it's too far back..

:-\

[John Houghton]

So my question then is #1: did the numbers change for this setup?

The 111mm is effectively the distance of the entrance pupil in front of the tripod socket on the camera. The entrance pupil needs to be in line with the tripod axis. The "111mm" may or may not be accurate.

Question #2: Do I in fact need a t-adapter? If so, has this always been the case?

If you cannot slide camera to the 111mm position, add the T-adapter and position it at 111-20=91mm.

Question #3: I can get the upper rail out to 108, will this be acceptable with stitching software (within 3mm)

If you have nothing close to the camera, then the stitching software will probably cope. Landscapes will be fine.

I'm trying to get grips on the fact that I previously was able to do a pano with my setup, and now it appears I'm not able to because I don't have the T-adapter.

Anything you were able to do before, you can do now. However, the correct position for your camera is the one where parallax is eliminated. You can easily and quickly determine this position yourself instead of relying on other people's measurements. Why not do that?

John

[gt_nninja]

The 111mm is effectively the distance of the entrance pupil in front of the tripod socket on the camera. The entrance pupil needs to be in line with the tripod axis. The "111mm" may or may not be accurate.
If you cannot slide camera to the 111mm position, add the T-adapter and position it at 111-20=91mm.
If you have nothing close to the camera, then the stitching software will probably cope. Landscapes will be fine.
Anything you were able to do before, you can do now. However, the correct position for your camera is the one where parallax is eliminated. You can easily and quickly determine this position yourself instead of relying on other people's measurements. Why not do that?

John

I believe the 20mm of the T-adpator (the 20mm anyway) is not the fore-aft offset rather the side-to-side offset (somebody please confirm) so the math would be incorrect.

George

[Terrywoodenpic]

I believe the 20mm of the T-adpator (the 20mm anyway) is not the fore-aft offset rather the side-to-side offset (somebody please confirm) so the math would be incorrect.

George

The 20mm is side to side But the T adapter also moves the point backwards so it should work.. however it is also 10mm thick so it moves the lens and camera away from the centre of the rotator by 10mm
I do not know if there is enough adjustment on the lower arm with that camera, you would need to check.( with the 40D there is.)

[John Houghton]

Sorry, I don't myself have a 20mm T-adapter, but it's easy enough to measure the fore and aft offset with a ruler and use that figure instead of the 20mm I mistakenly suggested in my post.

John