 |
Hi all,
I was wondering if there is a difference for the NN3 settings for Canon 5DMkII body and the original 5D? More specifically, I want to know if I can use the same setting that I used for 5D+EF15mm with the new 5DMkII body.
Thanks in advance,
Sam Javanrouh
If you have both cameras, you can work out the changes in settings. YOu measure the height from camera base to lens axis. You meansure the distance from lens mount to tripod socket. Work out the difference and adjust NN3 accordingly.Originally Posted by samtimes
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
I've been using the original 5D with Canon 15mm and original NN3. Now I've got the 5D Mark II, and I tried it with the settings I've been using with the original 5D, but my stitches aren't working in PTgui and Photoshop. I followed the NN3 instructions to make sure the NN is setup properly, and it appears to be (with the same settings I used with 5DI). I can line up two vertical objects and pan the camera without the two objects moving. But my stitches aren't working. If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate hearing them.
I don't understand the above. Is this necessary if I follow the NN3 instructions (that is, point the camera down and center the lens over the rotator adjusting the bottom rail, and then point the camera out and adjust the top rail to get the entrance pupil set right)?If you have both cameras, you can work out the changes in settings. YOu measure the height from camera base to lens axis. You meansure the distance from lens mount to tripod socket. Work out the difference and adjust NN3 accordingly.
I have played a 5DII briefly. the upper rail setting is the same for 5D and 5DII. I forgot the value for the lower rail setting. It is related to height of lens axis from the base of camera. you can measure it out using a ruler.
Place your camera on a flat surface. measure it height from the flat surface to the position of the rotation lock on the lens mount.
http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/Ca...ensmount01.jpg
work out the difference of the 2 cameras and compensate it in the lower rail setting.
Nick
Fanotec
We listen. We try harder.
Since your tests indicate you have eliminated parallax, you should be able to use a project file from one of your old successful 5D stitches as a template for the 5DII images.
Apply the template and switch into Advanced mode. Then assign control points via the Control Points menu. Select the Optmizer tab and Advanced mode. Check fov, horizontal and vertical shifts, together with y,p,r on all images except uncheck yaw for one image (to act as an anchor). Run optimize. Investigate the worst control points in the control points table - correcting them or deleting them as appropriate. Re-optimize and repeat the checks until a good optimization is obtained. If the optimization is not quite satisfactory and you have a good number of well spread control points, you can try optimizing the lens parameters a,b,c to see if any improvement can be obtained.
John
The cameras are very similar in size however the distance to sensor plane may vary along with other internal design components.
When using a new camera the posted settings only provide a general reference point, it is always advised to double check and tweak these settings especially if swapping out cameras and lenses.
We give a brief tutorial in our user manual how how to find the no parallax point (NPP) of a lens. Also here is a link to a tutorial by John Houghton on how to find the NPP of a lens:
http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
I heard sometimes turning the "auto image rotation off" on the camera may help.
This should get you up and going.
Cheers
Bill
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
