I'd love to have a NN to do panorama shots, seems like a very nice piece of equipment. One thing I always wonder about is people who use it on shots like the above one in this forum, of the ocean, with birds in it. Ummm, how? What if something moves while repositioning? With te ocean, it's always moving, so won't there always be some discontinuity from one to the next? I presume people only do it on sunny days with no clouds?
What about using wide-angle vs. std. vs. telephoto lenses for panoramas? Lets say I get a 180 degree view using 2 shots with a 90-degree wide-angle lens. Then I get effectively the same area-of-view using a whole bunch of shots with a 20-degree telephoto lens. Won't the 2 shots from the wide-angle seem kind of like, "folded", perspective wise? whereas the many telephoto will seem more natural?
If we only took panoramas on sunny, blue sky days, we in the UK would not be very productive! For subjects with movement, timing is important. Shots need to be taken as quickly as possible. Anticipate movement and take account of it to minimize the effects. Moving clouds can cause rapid variation in lighting conditions. You might need to wait for a big hole to let the sun through for sufficient time to take all the shots, otherwise blending differently exposed shots together can be difficult. Waves in the sea can certainly cause stitching problems. If they are fairly regular, you can wait for the waves to move into the right position to match the previous shot. It requires a lot of patience to do this, though. Though panoramas are usually taken with the camera in portrait orientation, it can be useful to take patching shots with the camera held in landscape or with the diagonal of the frame horizontal - in order to get the maximum horizontal angle of view.
The focal length of the lens has no impact on the general appearance of the final panorama. Any apparent perspective distortions are automatically corrected as part of the image warping process. A longer focal length will just require more shots to cover the same view, but this can result in better image quality as the level of detail captured will be higher. i.e. there will be more pixels available in the final panorama.
One thing I always wonder about is people who use it on shots like the above one in this forum, of the ocean, with birds in it. Ummm, how?
Hi - I did the above banner pano. Even though it's filled with errors it looks ok at a reduced size to the casual observer. And I cannot tell a lie - the two birds are one in the same - just did a bit of work in Photoshop. Although I could have stood there waiting for more birds to fly over and snap the shutter at the right moment I just didn't bring my chair and didn't have the time.
Here is the fullscreen version with leveling, stiching and lighting errors :blushing: http://www.circularworlds.com/palm_b...ll_screen.html
We learn from our mistakes and hopefully grow to produce more stunning panoramas.
ps - shot with a D70 w/10.5mm on NN SPH-2 (6 around +T&B)
I could demonstrate discontinuities very well A classic case of a person trying to run before he can walk correctly.
It should be remembered that a lot of the guys here would not make the mistakes that I have made as the skills they have attained wouldn't allow them to. Right from where to take the photos and how to take the photos through to post production work with photoshop etc. I would normally try to photograph a scene at a quiet time of day so there is not much moving around, but this wasn't possible on this particular day. Lots of movement of people and cars I tried to "clean it up" but eventually I gave up on this one to be reshot at a later time. Compare the views below as examples of "what not to do" Is the same set of images, but way beyond my skills to fully fix. I finally gave up on this set as there were just too many errors from the first.
We learn by our mistakes. Right from the start of a shoot consider the scene carefully, take more shots than needed (the joys of digital) and work on photoshop skills. Most important though is not to give up. My panos are no match for a lot that I see around, but then mine are a little better now than my first efforts. Don't be discouraged with a few failed attempts and sometimes a few discontinuities can actually add to a scene somehow.
You might also consider using a slow shutter speed and just the let stuff that moves blur itself into oblivion.
I've posted this pano on the site earlier. (It's about 13 topics below this topic.) http://www.deckersphoto.com/sawyer.html
I used a slow shutter speed to avoid a lot of cleanup, and also because I thought the scene in general was on the blah side and perhaps some motion would bring a little life to it.
I see John Houghton has also posted on this topic. A big thanks to him for his tutorial on lens calibration, and zenith-nadir workflows. These two tutorials have saved me from hours and hours of photoshop frustration. http://www.johnhpanos.com/