Optimisation suggestions

[paperaussie]

I only got my NN3 a few weeks ago and I am very happy with it because it eliminated the pain of stitching photos with parallax.

The only parts where I would see potential for optimisation are:
1) The lower rotator leans a bit once the camera (K10D) is mounted. This becomes a bit better when tightening the Friction Set Knob but the bubble level is still slightly out.
2) The markings on the lower rotator are about 2 degrees out after rotating the lower arm from 0 to 90 (15 deg detent ring). I haven't tried other detent rings yet, hence I don't know if it's the ring or the markings on the rotator.
3) Detents allow about ±1 to ±1.5 degree movement at each stop.
4) A quick release camera mounting plate would be nice as standard.

I don't have another head to compare and none of this stops me from getting much better results than without the NN3.
I would buy certainly buy the unit again and can only recommend it.

[David Glazebrook]

Im a Pentax user as well and bought my NN3 when I was using a K10D. I tried to use it in conjunction with my Sigma 17-70 but found it too heavy (sagging). These days I just use the NN3 with my K20D and my 21mm or 50mm lens. A little disappointing. I am thinking of the NN5 or something more robust. I'll check once in a while to see if there are any further developements.

[Bill Bailey]

The only parts where I would see potential for optimisation are:
1) The lower rotator leans a bit once the camera (K10D) is mounted. This becomes a bit better when tightening the Friction Set Knob but the bubble level is still slightly out.

The lower rotator should not lean - simply tighten the tension knob a bit more to allow the spring ball to fully compress. A loose tension knob will certainly lead to leveling issues.

2) The markings on the lower rotator are about 2 degrees out after rotating the lower arm from 0 to 90 (15 deg detent ring). I haven't tried other detent rings yet, hence I don't know if it's the ring or the markings on the rotator.

While we claim the rotational accuracy on NN3 to be within +/- 2 degrees, we have actually seen greater precision especially with the newer MKII's. A loose rotator tension knob would also allow for lesser precision. When building these pano heads there is a price point we reach in development when trying to achieve precision versus cost. The higher the precision the higher the cost.
Unless you're doing batch stitching where you need rotational accuracy of .1 degree you will find NN3 to work perfectly for you.
It is important when shooting panoramas to give yourself a good 20%-30%+ overlap between images. That said a couple of degrees variance either way is really insignificant.

3) Detents allow about ±1 to ±1.5 degree movement at each stop.

Again - it sounds as if your tension knob in not tightened enough.

4) A quick release camera mounting plate would be nice as standard.

It's in the works This (and other brackets) will most likely be sold as an add-on accessory.

If problems persist with your Nodal Ninja please contact us through the website or local reseller for direct support.
Thanks
Bill

[Bill Bailey]

Im a Pentax user as well and bought my NN3 when I was using a K10D. I tried to use it in conjunction with my Sigma 17-70 but found it too heavy (sagging). These days I just use the NN3 with my K20D and my 21mm or 50mm lens. A little disappointing. I am thinking of the NN5 or something more robust. I'll check once in a while to see if there are any further developements.

Hi David, Your NN3 should not be sagging. Some heavier setups may require additional tightening of upper rotator as this is a friction based locking design. If you still have a problem touch bases with me - bill[at]nodalninja[dot]com - as maybe you just need a new compression washer.
If you are thinking of going for the NN5L we are offering trade-ins on all NN's: http://nodalninja.com/trade_in.html

Thanks
Bill

[Terrywoodenpic]

[quote=paperaussie;23401]

1) The lower rotator leans a bit once the camera (K10D) is mounted. This becomes a bit better when tightening the Friction Set Knob but the bubble level is still slightly out.

The NN3ll can be tightened quite firmly and it will eliminate any wobble.( still moves very freely because of the inbuilt bearing) I use a Canon 40D and the very heavy 17-55 f2.8 lens plus a heavy Manfrotto quick release and mine neither sags nor wobbles. As to the bubble it is very sensitive but still stays well with in the marked circle.
Do not use any other bubble only the one in the NN3ll the surface on the rotator is exactly flat, so if you rotate the bubble it will return exactly to it's starting point. it is incorrect to think that it should stay exactly central or that you should re-adjust as you rotate.
stitching software requires no more than this.

2) The markings on the lower rotator are about 2 degrees out after rotating the lower arm from 0 to 90 (15 deg detent ring). I haven't tried other detent rings yet, hence I don't know if it's the ring or the markings on the rotator.

the settings are only a guide ... however only use either the front or the back index point when making readings... it is almost impossible ,with in financial constraints for manufactures to set two identical index points. The actual detents are extremely accurate... actually far more so than is needed in any likely application.

3) Detents allow about ±1 to ±1.5 degree movement at each stop.

Not if the rotator is tightened correctly

4) A quick release camera mounting plate would be nice as standard.

It is possible to fit a Quick release on some cameras. see the Photographs below.

[Bill Bailey]

appreciate sharing the photo's Terry. Each MKII also has included with it a sqaure rubber washer. You can use this if you like in place of the camera plate to give a bit more adjustment room on the lower rail - about 10mm.

[Terrywoodenpic]

appreciate sharing the photo's Terry. Each MKII also has included with it a sqaure rubber washer. You can use this if you like in place of the camera plate to give a bit more adjustment room on the lower rail - about 10mm.

With my adapter on the upper arm I can set the needed 110.8 mm for the 17mm setting on the 17-.55 f2.8 In fact it goes to about 111.8 ,which gave me the smallest leeway.
The lower arm has 2mm spare with my set up with QR and adapter.
the back lip on my adapter (see below) actually allows it to over lap the rim on the end of the NN3 arm. The two screws are not entirely necessary but stop any possible rotation.

This camera lens combination with QR, in reality, exceeds the adjustment available; and with out it, I would have had to move up to the NN5. or not use a QR.

[paperaussie]

I agree that I could tighten the tension knob a bit more but then I have a bigger risk of accidentally moving the tripod when rotating the camera. Anyway, it was just an observation and overall I am quite happy with the NN3.

The lower rotator should not lean - simply tighten the tension knob a bit more to allow the spring ball to fully compress. A loose tension knob will certainly lead to leveling issues.
While we claim the rotational accuracy on NN3 to be within +/- 2 degrees, we have actually seen greater precision especially with the newer MKII's. A loose rotator tension knob would also allow for lesser precision. When building these pano heads there is a price point we reach in development when trying to achieve precision versus cost. The higher the precision the higher the cost.
Unless you're doing batch stitching where you need rotational accuracy of .1 degree you will find NN3 to work perfectly for you.
It is important when shooting panoramas to give yourself a good 20%-30%+ overlap between images. That said a couple of degrees variance either way is really insignificant.
Again - it sounds as if your tension knob in not tightened enough.
It's in the works This (and other brackets) will most likely be sold as an add-on accessory.

If problems persist with your Nodal Ninja please contact us through the website or local reseller for direct support.
Thanks
Bill

[pep]

Hi Paperaussie,

I find the same issue when I receive my NN3 but, As Bill explain, everything comes from the tension knob and it's really easy to correct on 3 steps :

1) unbolt the rotator lock screw
2) lock the knob. You have to find the right tension to avoid rotator leaning but let it move smoothly.
3) bolt the rotator lock screw (I use a 1 aussie pence coin I keep from my last travel down under )

That's it !
Now keep in mind to rotate your NN3 clockwise ... if you don't want to unbolt the knob.
An alternate solution could be to upgrade your rotator with the MKII one. It's available from the order page.

Pierre

[Ewie_nz]

Yep, I found the lower tension knob a little bit fiddly but quickley sorted it out. That said I plan on updating to the MkII version soon.

Like Terrywoodenpic I also use the Manfrotto #323 quick release adaptor but have attached it to the T-adaptor that came with the NN3, this gives me a bit more height as my 11-18mm zoom has a 77mm filter dia and "hangs" lower than the base of the body.

Cheers Ewie

[Bill Bailey]

TIP:
We have found adding a washer or two to the underside of the tension knob (with NN markings) on some NN3's to work for some.

[phberlin]

Is there already information about trade-ins of NN3 for the NN5Lite for people like me that bought their NN3 at a local reseller?

Best regards,
Philipp Koch

[Wide-Eyed]

the settings are only a guide ... however only use either the front or the back index point when making readings... it is almost impossible ,with in financial constraints for manufactures to set two identical index points. The actual detents are extremely accurate... actually far more so than is needed in any likely application.

Would it be more accurate for users to only rotate the unit clockwise or counter-clockwise ? Do you think the OP might be finding the measurements 'wander' a bit because of changing direction just before shooting ?

[Terrywoodenpic]

Would it be more accurate for users to only rotate the unit clockwise or counter-clockwise ? Do you think the OP might be finding the measurements 'wander' a bit because of changing direction just before shooting ?

That might have been true on the earlier NN's, with the screw unwinding, But I have found no problem in that area with my NN3ll

I do not understand where his problem actually is.
When you line up the bubble on a NN what you are doing is levelling the surface of the rotator; this will not change as it does not move when you rotate the arm.
If the top half of the rotator and arm are rotated flush with this surface, it is also rotating on that same plane. Even if you greatly over load the arm and introduce slight sag.. every picture will sag by an equal amount and will rotate in the same plane as each other. So neither will this introduce a problem.

That you had not levelled that plane perfectly in the first place does not matter to the Pano-software., it will still be able to produce a perfect Pan.
Vastly more important is the location of the points selected in or by the software, and the field of view of each image.