Sort of misunderstanding. Normally you do the Smooth test once till you found your LRS setting. But in the beginning when you do not know LRS and URS, you might get misalignments because both settings might be a little bit out of NPP. When I found my LRS for my camera and change the lens I try to find my URS and of course do not touch my LRS. Plus you do not have to check LRS with different pitches because you have to shoot 2 rows for example. Pitching up and down with the horizontal arm will keep the NPP because you move in NPP.
Could you please send the solo pics of your URS with http://ge.tt/ so I can check them in PS? I feel the reference is still moving a tiny little bit. You see a sort Knob in the top of the white line on the left side, which you can not see in the centered shot.
éric, 57 seems to be about right. However, can I suggest you do the following test:
With the camera angled straight down at -90 degrees, take two shots - rotating the head by 180 degrees between them.
Stitch the images in PTGui, control points only on the floor, output format: rectilinear 90x90 degrees; PSD with individual layers.
Open the output file in Photoshop and reduce the opacity of the upper layer to 50%. You should see something like:
Ideally, you don't want to see any double image of the centre screw. If there are two images visible, measure the horizontal displacement with the ruler tool and convert that to mm by dragging the ruler over to the scale marked on the NN5 arm. Half that figure is the correction needed to the LRS setting to eliminate the misalignment.
The displacement in the vertical direction is due to the mounting of the camera onto the upper arm being slightly off. It can be corrected by twisting the camera a bit (if the mount permits this). Judge the amount by looking through the viewfinder to assess the position of the centre focusing spot relative to the screw head.
I've posted the 3 images on my website;
Here's the link:
Thank you for your time.
Eric, That looks to be as good as you are ever likely to get it:
Cp-2 plates have a slight movement which is needed to get them into the rail. Once close to be fixed try to feel if there is a"movement". With CP-2 plates I always try to set my camera "pushed forward downwards". That way the inside of the baseplate will stop at the lower front and the upper back corners inside the rail and I always get the same situation. May be you can "heal" the vertical that way.
Thx for posting and enjoy your equipment.
again, thank you both for your help;
I'm off for a couple of days. I'll go back to the NPP asap & will let you know.
So far, A=57 & B=105,5
With these settings, I'm tried a new way to create panorama.
I've been using a monopod (Manfrotto 628B). Not too stable but it does the job.
Here's the result:
If I try to optimize my settings, should I start working on A or B value?
Again thank you.
Start with A = Lower Rails setting.
I'm back since i still have some broken lines when creating a pano.
Quick question: i'm still using a 8-15 Canon @ 8mm.
I take 4 shots @ -10° & one of the zenith.
Should it be better to take 4 shots @ 0°, then one of the zenith & one of the nadir?
Which method do you use to erase the tripod?
When you are not shooting from a pole, I would take the shots around at 0° and take and extra Zenith and Nadir1 and Nadir2 with Nadir Adapter. Then you can mask out your tripod in PTGuiPro with Nadir1 and Nadir2.
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eric, Do you have a particular reason for shooting at 8mm? 12mm would avoid wasting so many pixels and give better quality, and you still only need 4 shots around. Looking at the images you have posted, you don't have a nadir adapter, so if the camera is tilted @ -10° you should be able to take one nadir shot to cover the tripod area plus a zenith shot to cover the hole there.
Originally Posted by hindenhaag
thank you for your quick response; I'm not using a pole but a standard Manfrotto tripod (sometimes, I'm also using a monopod).
I've recently purchased a pano software but not PTGuiPro; I'm now using Autopano Giga 3. Do you know if this software has this feature?
I've tried this technic and I'm struggling with the fisheye effect.
Eric, you need to set up your panohead much more accurately than this when shooting in such a confined space with things so close to the camera. The appearance of those tripod legs suggest that the adjustment is a long way from optimum, resulting in rather large parallax effects.
Yes, I have Autopano Giga but do not use it much. I am a PTGuiPro Fan. Except for Gigapixel Panos.
Yes it has masking function: http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/acti...-_Masking_tool.
Fisheye effect will be handled by the software.
Shoot @zoom 12mm as John advised you. This will help you not to waist pixels. He has this combination as well. I am a Nikonian.:th_wink:
So, I've shot @ 12mm; 4 shots @ -10° & one of the zenith.
Here's a shot of the center of my NN5: http://ericthoreau.free.fr/temp/IMG_3735_center.jpg (the red dot is the center of the image)
After stitching with AutoPano 3, my RMS started at 4,01 & after improvement, I've ended at 2,61
The pano is here: http://ericthoreau.free.fr/temp/12mm-5shots-B105.5.mov (made with pano2vr)
I've blurred out some parts of my messy hotel room ;)
Do you believe my end result could be better?