NN3 with Pentax K5
I currently use an NN3 mk2 with a Panasonic GH2 and 7-14mm lens. I have started thinking about moving to a Pentax K5 with either a Sigma 8-16mm or Pentax 10-17mm fisheye.
Does anyone know if the above would work fine with the NN3 in terms of size for 360 VRs?
Pentax K5 with Pentax 10-17mm fisheye should be fine. not sure about the sigma.
Originally Posted by LeChuck
may be you could contact Badders to help you. Besides other things Andrew is "our Pentax Specialist" as well. Great service.
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I've got a Pentax K5. I'm using it with a Samyang 8mm f/3.5 and a Samyang 14mm f/2.8. Here's an example taken with the Samyang 8mm and a NN5: http://www.360tacticalvr.com/blog/?p=218
I'll check today for you if you can use the Samyang 8mm with the K5 on a NN3. You can't use the 8-16mm Sigma with the NN3 and the K5. Yes, you can use the Pentax 10-17mm and the K5 on a NN3.
Thanks for the info! The 8-16 looks intresting, but not as much if it requires changing the pano head, which adds more weight and volume.
Samyang 8mm works with NN3 and Pentax K20D, so it should also work with the smaller K5 body. Another possible lens is the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 if you want higher resolution than the Samyang fisheye gives.
Have you tried stitching with a Sigma 10-20? This is the orientation I might take, replacing the GH2 + 7-14 with a K5 plus Sigma 10-20, which doesn't seem like a too large increase in weight. I'd prefer a small 10mm prime but I don't think there is one. There seems to be good correction in Lightroom for the Sigma lens.
Currently with the 7-14mm on the GH2 I can do a 360 very well with 6 shots around at -30°, 6 shots at +10°, one zenith, plus what is needed for the nadir. That's in 3-4 picture mode. I'm wondering what I could achieve with the 10-20 on the NN3, hopefully not too many more shots if any. The field of view on the 7-14 at full wide is a bit wider than on the Sigma at 10mm, I think 114 - 75 and 111 - 72. One difference is the pictures would now be 3/2 ratio instead of 3/4, which most likely means less width coverage and might require 8 shots around instead of 6...
I do not want to use a fisheye at the moment because I want to make panoramas that will also make good flat fine art prints and want a bit more resolution, but without taking a lot more shots than I do now, not gigapixel stuff. So, a good compromise.
VRWave database has had a very good revival:
Till now no info about Tokina 10-17, but I am not sure if there is one lens with pentax connection? But fisheye lens.
I believe the Pentax 10-17 is the same lens as the Tokina. I have ordered a Sigma 10-20 so we will see how that works. The one thing I don't like is I had setup the Panasonic 7-14 really precisely on the NN3, so I'll have to redo that.
I received the K5 and Sigma 10-20 a few days ago and I'm currently setting this up on the NN3. One comment I'll make is that that combo would not fit on the NN3 if I didn't also have the nadir adapter, which raises everything and gives more clearance. The problem is when putting the camera in the zenith position. It's been mentioned before but I hadn't seen it until now.
I'm not sure how many shots the Sigma lens will require. My hope was that I could still do it in 2 rows plus Z and N, as with the Panasonic 7-14. I would take 2x6 (-30, +10) plus Z and N with that one. I may have to go for 8 shots around with the Sigma, but while testing for the correct NPP spot, I'm using 6 shots and it seems ok, but may not be in other situations, I'm not sure. I want to minimize the number of shots while getting the best quality possible, as I will be doing HDR most of the time. More shots might be needed to get more overlap and keep the best parts of each picture...
I've read mentions of 1 row with 8 shots at 0, then 2 extra rows of 4 shots, but it seems that those numbers assume that we don't really want to take a nadir shot, but I want to take one and I bought the nadir adapter for that. While that's not too many more shots overall, that's still one extra row...
Sigma 10-20 can be shot with a D300 in 10 shots. In this thread I discuss 6 around plus 2 Zenith (90 degrees from each other) and two Nadir shots (again, 90 degrees from each other). 10 shots cover the entire sphere. One hand held Nadir shot and you are done.
have a look to VRwave: http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database/sigma/
6 around will give an overlap around 20% while 8 around end up with an overlap around 40%. Taking your shutter speed test camera set to A mode around at location, you could not only watch the shutter speed, but also check the information at the seems.
Start with 6 around. When you feel it is sufficient information for CP at the seems, shoot 6 around. When you stop at a white wall, go for 8 around. 20% overlap is not very secure. I prefer to shoot with 30%, min 25% overlap. You would need 2 rows at +/- 30° + Z 2xN. Check the horizontal. Try to avoid a horizontal seem which runs through the middle of the people running around. This will ask a lot of ghost masking. In this case try to find a better pitch set up, that keeps people in full size. When objects are moving like cars or people etc, try to shoot against the main direction of movements. That way you will not follow up the "objects" and it avoids ghosts.
Thanks all for the links and advice.
I spent a couple hours today creeping up to the perfect settings on the NN3 in order to reach the same good result that I had with the old lens/camera. Then I tried for a quick "real" panorama. 6 shots seems a bit short for overlap (the GH2 had 4/3 ratios shots and that offered more width per photo). I have to take into account the fact that I am applying lens correction in Lightroom prior to exporting the files, which crops them a little. If it can also work with 6, it would probably be useful in cases where speed is more important than absolute quality.
For my test, I did 2 rows of 8 at -30 and +30, one zenith shot, one nadir in same position, then one nadir using the nadir adapter. It all optimized to "very good" (but for the nadir adapter shot, I entered only manual control points with the first nadir shot, and no other photo, plus some masking to make sure it took only the useful parts). It worked very well with only a couple very minor seam issues that are quasi invisible on some verticals in the background. I will probably perfect the nodal position next time and also try at -30, +20 (for a little less difference between bottom and top shots). I'm just waiting for a connector cable for my wireless remote as using the shutter and 2s timer is a real pain and introduces a bit of movement.
Since I post a lot of messages and no panoramas (although I haven't done too many yet), here is one to look at (done with GH2 + 7-14, with totally manual patching of the nadir using an offset shot, there was very little space available on the floor). There will be more eventually with the new setup, but time is hard to find these days.