Settings for spherical panos with your kit lens
Zoom set to 18mm:
You have to go for 4 rows, detend plunger set to 30° , makes 12 stops.
The settings are calculated with an overlap of 30%.
Now your upper rail sets in "Pitch", which means turn the upper rail up or down.
1. row 55°
2. row 20°
3. row -15°
4. row -50°
To this you have to shoot a zenith at +90° and 2 shots with -90° with nadir adaptor, or 3 with handheld.
Using the nadir adaptor on NN3 you have to subtract 6 mm of your LRS = lower rail setting.
BTW: trying to find your NPP: turning your camera to a direction and the reference point follows you up, imagine a person walking aside of you. To keep in contact moving forward, you have to walk forward: move the camera forward. The reference point is moving against the turning direction, the person is not walking with you, it is passing by, to keep in contact you have to walk backwards.
"walking with you" = camera forward, "walking against you" = camera backwards.
LRS = lower rail setting: hacksaw tooth is cutting to the left, move the camera to the left. Hacksaw tooth cutting to the right, move the camera to the right. Move the camera to the direction the tooth cuts.
I am Nikonian. But I am quite sure Badders will help you with the settings.
Kit lenses might be a start up to be used for panos. I know all the equipment asks a lot of money.
But to use a kit lens, is not the easiest start to do panos. 4 rows with 12 stops, plus 3 or 4 shots for Z and N might cause a lot of problems in preparing - stitching your pano. People, cars, clouds, trees, water moving around while you take your pictures might end up in a "ghost" pano. This means, when you do your second row there are other people in sight as in the first row. ...
A fisheye lens would be a better start up. A manual Samyang 8mm, a Sigma 8mm - I do not like it so much - or a Nikkor 10.5 with canon adaptor might be a good choice to go on without frustration.
Ask Badders, he will help you. For the rest, feel free to ask.