Small neck fisheye and NN2/3 compatibility

Bill, Nick -- do you guys have something in mind to help the compatibility of small neck fisheye adapter lenses like the FC-e8 and the $49.95 IPIX one that I have and others have?

It's the dark half moon problem where the tilt axis of the upper arm protrudes into the field of view of a full circle image.

Like this --

Maybe something like a Bophoto thing that attaches to the upper arm horizontally and sticks out a few extra inches.
http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/index.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DemonDuck

Bill, Nick -- do you guys have something in mind to help the compatibility of small neck fisheye adapter lenses like the FC-e8 and the $49.95 IPIX one that I have and others have?

It's the dark half moon problem where the tilt axis of the upper arm protrudes into the field of view of a full circle image.

Like this --

Maybe something like a Bophoto thing that attaches to the upper arm horizontally and sticks out a few extra inches.
http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/index.html

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You can ignore the dark area if you take 3 shots. after all 3 shots give better image quality than 2 shot.

Nick


Nick

Actually, I usually take at least 4 to 8 around to get rid of the edge softness of the lens and the dark moon problem

4 around requires post processing with the layers to smooth the shadows from the dark moons.

2 or 3 around just doesn't work on this lens.

The dark moon can interfere with getting a CP in just the right place and also with the post processing when you need to blend a portion of a layer into the right place to cover a defect in the stitch. It can also cause a stitch error.

Zooming in to clip the dark moon doesn't work because that increases chromatic aberration and results in a degraded image. Believe it or not, with this lens I get a sharper image with fewer pixels if I can keep the chromatic aberration to a minimum.

I know your new fisheye heads are the ultimate answer for this problem but I like the versatility of the NN3. I can swap the fisheye for a wide angle adapter and shoot a higher resolution/quality pano real easy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DemonDuck

Actually, I usually take at least 4 to 8 around to get rid of the edge softness of the lens and the dark moon problem

4 around requires post processing with the layers to smooth the shadows from the dark moons.

2 or 3 around just doesn't work on this lens.

The dark moon can interfere with getting a CP in just the right place and also with the post processing when you need to blend a portion of a layer into the right place to cover a defect in the stitch. It can also cause a stitch error.

Zooming in to clip the dark moon doesn't work because that increases chromatic aberration and results in a degraded image. Believe it or not, with this lens I get a sharper image with fewer pixels if I can keep the chromatic aberration to a minimum.

I know your new fisheye heads are the ultimate answer for this problem but I like the versatility of the NN3. I can swap the fisheye for a wide angle adapter and shoot a higher resolution/quality pano real easy.

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Hi DemonDuck,

Do you have 3-shot sample to share? You can send the photo to nick"a t"fanotec"d ot"c o m.
BTW, you can use a QR system to increase the clearance of the lens from the upper rail. I think the cost will be similar to a custom clamp for FE converters.

Nick

Sorry, no three shot sequence right now. If it would be useful to you I could do a quickie. It would have to be jpg to keep the transfer small.

An L bracket off of a T20/T30 connector would change the orientation from portrait to landscape and could put the nodal point several cm farther away from the tilt axis. That could be enough.