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Ultimate R1 vs RS-2 ?

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  • Ultimate R1 vs RS-2 ?

    As it is my first post, I would like first to greet the community ! I've been reading since few days different threads and I'm in the mood to create a new one !

    So from scratch :
    I've been doing mainly spherical panoramas with a 550D + a canon 10-22mm 3.5 and lately with a samyang fisheye 8mm 3.5, the new ones without the hood. My panohead, well, doesn't really worth to talk about it as it is a chinese piece of junk bought on Ebay for a very reasonable price ! In the mean time, that's why I'm here ; because I seriously want to upgrade my gear as I do more and more panos.

    So, I need some advices because there's few things I'm not sure to catch. As I was reading some threads, I've seen some inputs saying that it is more recommanded to use a RS1 (or now RS2) in order to make spherical panoramas, the R1 being not that great to shoot Zénith with a single row.

    So my question is : with that tilt option that the R1 offers, is that possible to create a spherical panorama with the following "settings" ?
    -A full frame body (canon markiii)
    -A samyang 8mm
    -The R1 head
    -A first row of let's say 3 shots every 120° @ -7.5
    -Then a second "row" tilting the head @ +12.5 and making let's say 2 shots every 180°

    Does tilting @ +12.5 will be enough to get the zenith. I would say yes as using a fisheye on full frame is supposed to give me a 180° FOV right ?
    I would be very glad if anyone that have a similar gear/way of shooting could advise me.

    Other thing I'm don't really understand. In the R1 spec of Nodal Ninja website it is said :
    -8 precise on-the-fly tilting options (-15, -10, -7.5, -2.5, 0, +5, +7.5, +12.5 deg)
    and
    -Ability to roll the camera/lens in any position including the popular 0, 60 and 90 degree positions.

    I'm not sure to understand the last one vs the first one. What exactly they mean by "roll" the camera ?

    I've tried to find some videos in use of the head to have a better idea but to be honnest, I haven't found one ! Anyone here could share some usefull ones ?

    Thanks for reading ! and hope I've been enough clear !
    Cheers to all

  • #2
    Originally posted by f-visuals View Post
    As it is my first post, I would like first to greet the community ! I've been reading since few days different threads and I'm in the mood to create a new one !

    So from scratch :
    I've been doing mainly spherical panoramas with a 550D + a canon 10-22mm 3.5 and lately with a samyang fisheye 8mm 3.5, the new ones without the hood. My panohead, well, doesn't really worth to talk about it as it is a chinese piece of junk bought on Ebay for a very reasonable price ! In the mean time, that's why I'm here ; because I seriously want to upgrade my gear as I do more and more panos.

    So, I need some advices because there's few things I'm not sure to catch. As I was reading some threads, I've seen some inputs saying that it is more recommanded to use a RS1 (or now RS2) in order to make spherical panoramas, the R1 being not that great to shoot Zénith with a single row.

    So my question is : with that tilt option that the R1 offers, is that possible to create a spherical panorama with the following "settings" ?
    -A full frame body (canon markiii)
    -A samyang 8mm
    -The R1 head
    -A first row of let's say 3 shots every 120° @ -7.5
    -Then a second "row" tilting the head @ +12.5 and making let's say 2 shots every 180°

    Does tilting @ +12.5 will be enough to get the zenith. I would say yes as using a fisheye on full frame is supposed to give me a 180° FOV right ?
    I would be very glad if anyone that have a similar gear/way of shooting could advise me.

    Other thing I'm don't really understand. In the R1 spec of Nodal Ninja website it is said :
    -8 precise on-the-fly tilting options (-15, -10, -7.5, -2.5, 0, +5, +7.5, +12.5 deg)
    and
    -Ability to roll the camera/lens in any position including the popular 0, 60 and 90 degree positions.

    I'm not sure to understand the last one vs the first one. What exactly they mean by "roll" the camera ?

    I've tried to find some videos in use of the head to have a better idea but to be honnest, I haven't found one ! Anyone here could share some usefull ones ?

    Thanks for reading ! and hope I've been enough clear !
    Cheers to all
    R1 is single row pano head. Even though it allows you to tilt the lens. NPP is not maintained. This will cause parallax for situations where there are near and far objects near the seam of overlapping rows of images. So it is NOT recommended for inexperienced users with a fisheye lens with vertical angle of view lens than 170 deg. So it is not recommended for your Samyang 8mm.
    RS2 is a full spherical pano head. It allow you to tilt any angle maintaining NPP.

    Roll angle refere to rotation of camera about its lens axis, just like that of a flight.

    Nick
    Fanotec
    We listen. We try harder.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks very much Nick for your answer. It is now pretty clear ! I thought that R1 was able to tilt keeping NPP !
      Drawing is also very clear and lights me on the "roll" question I had !

      Just one more question. Using the RS2 pano head, does 3shots every 120 + 2 shots for zenith sounds ok ?
      I'm kind of really wondering how low on shot's number I could step down...
      Wat would be your (the community) advise with that body-lens combination ?

      Thanks so much for your time !
      All the best

      Comment


      • #4
        you need at least 4 shots for samyang 8mm on APS sensor in portrait orientation. Then one zenith shot is ok.
        you may also mount the camera in landscape orientation, then 3 shots + 2 zenith may be fine. I have not test it.

        NIck
        Fanotec
        We listen. We try harder.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi,

          I wouldn't go for three stops. With three stops in portrait orientation you have less than 25% overlap. You are running into trouble when you have not so many control points with three shots and small overlap. This means, because you did not take the time for one more picture during the shooting, you have lost the panorama. Either the nice sunset won't be there the next time, or you might have o travel a long way to do it again.

          So I would always try to be on the safe side. Stitching will be much easier with 4 shots.

          Have a look at Frank's calculator to estimate overlap.

          http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm

          http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/7284/ enough to read and get knowledge about the samyang on your camera

          Success,
          Heinz
          Last edited by hindenhaag; 06-19-2013, 10:14 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Nick and Heinz, thanks very much for your input and for the useful links. After the reading, I'm pretty confident that using a full frame body canon markiii (pretty cool upgrade !) I can get a panorama in 3 shots + 1 zénith.
            Let's order the panohead and see what comes with the results :)
            Thanks all !

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by f-visuals View Post
              Nick and Heinz, thanks very much for your input and for the useful links. After the reading, I'm pretty confident that using a full frame body canon markiii (pretty cool upgrade !) I can get a panorama in 3 shots + 1 zénith.
              Let's order the panohead and see what comes with the results :)
              Thanks all !
              For full frame body, make sure you get the version 2 of Samyang 8mm with removable hood.

              Nick
              Fanotec
              We listen. We try harder.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Nick ! it is actually the case :) I've got the version with removable hood. But thanks to precise. It might also helps some other people !

                Francis

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by f-visuals View Post
                  Hey Nick ! it is actually the case :) I've got the version with removable hood. But thanks to precise. It might also helps some other people !

                  Francis
                  As a matter of fact, you can use R1/10 for a Samyang 8mm (without hood) on a full frame DSLR! Just use 5 or 7.5 deg tilt to close the zenith.
                  see review here
                  http://michel.thoby.free.fr/SAMYANG/...%20report.html

                  It is strange that I always assume APSC sensor when we talk about Samyang 8mm. :-) maybe because of version 1 that is dedicated for APSC.

                  Nick
                  Last edited by nick fan; 06-21-2013, 09:08 AM.
                  Fanotec
                  We listen. We try harder.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks to point that !
                    Lucky me ! I haven't order the RS2 head yet :)

                    Comment

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