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  • Confused from a new member

    Hi to everyone this is my first post,
    I already have a 360 precision Adjust for my 360 photography but it is a little overkill for me right now
    It is very stable but nit for me.

    I have a Canon 5D Mark III and a canon 15mm fisheye
    so I need a small setup as possible but very good quality, but I am confused with all the information here.
    I need the panohead for the tripod not for poles for the moment.
    I will use it only for the 360 not other uses
    I need Zenith and Nadir
    WHich one is better R1 or R10?

    Thank you

  • #2
    Welcome Nikos,

    You'll get as good results with R1 and R10, the question is flexibility and change of lenses in future. If you go with R1, you get choice of tilt so multiple setups possible and if in future you use other fisheye, you'll be easily able to use them on R1 (just change of ring and adjust tilt). If you go with R1, you get a cheapest solution but none flexibility at all as tilt is fixed !

    Retired Nodal Ninja Distributor


    • #3
      Hi Nikos,

      Vincen forgot the 0, R10 is the cheapest solution...


      • #4
        Originally posted by hindenhaag View Post
        Vincen forgot the 0, R10 is the cheapest solution...
        Right :) Thanks for correction Heinz, you get tilt selected when you buy it plus horizontal/0º by reversing vertical arm of the head :)
        Retired Nodal Ninja Distributor


        • #5

 This would be the best choice: choose for Canon 15mm lens ring and 60° Mini Rotator. This will fit your needs right now. Mini Rotator are tiny little new rotators. The whole combination is very light. Stops around are fixed. But you can buy an extra ring for more or less shots around in case you change your lens. Easy to change.

          Alternative as Rotator would be RD4, which is bigger and heavier, but allows to change number of stops on the flight by changing the detent knob to another hole.

          But to be fair to you, Zenith shooting specially indoors is not a plug and play job. You can try to close the zenith by tilting up and take your shots around @ +5° for example and take a handheld Nadir shot. Another option would be to shoot around @ 0° and then you can use the R1 Zenith Position, which moves the lens out of NPP by falling down and backwards. To correct it, you have to raise your center column and move the tripod forward to get back to old NPP position to avoid stitching errors when shooting inside. There is also a possibility to shoot a Nadir by moving the tripod aside and shoot back to your old tripod position.

          There will be another "RS-1" panohead, similar to NN3 but it is not available right now. You can use your lens ring and Mini Rotator on the new one too.

          We use the R1/R10 we recommened with success with Zenith and Nadir shots, even on poles or monopods.

          Have look to this link too:

          Last edited by hindenhaag; 09-07-2012, 04:44 AM.


          • #6
            Thank you all for the replies
            is this the corect for what i need?

            I am confuse about the zenith is the head moving upwards? or not


            • #7
              Yes, that's the set R1 with RD4. Do not forget to mark the lensring = Objektivklemmring for Canon 15mm.

              I've taken a set of pics to demonstrate Zenith and Nadir shot possibilities with R1.

              Zenith: keep you camera body safely in your hand and open up the fixing screw and let it fall towards you into Zenith shot position. Now NPP has moved down and backwards towards you from viewfinder position. To shoot the zenith shot in NPP, you have to raise the center column to old height of NPP. Now you have to move the tripod forward till the lens axis is in old tripod position. To know the distance you have raise and move forward, measure the distance from the turning point of the R1 top part = the bolt below the rail to NPP. For the D7000 with 10.5mm this is 7cm. So I had to raise the center column and move forward by 7 cm for my combination.

              In case you do not like to do a handheld Nadir shot, you can move the camera forward on R1. In this case you should place a coin below your tripod to mark original tripod position before shooting Zenith and Nadir. Take shot's around, take Zenith shot, move camera into Nadir position. Now move straight backwards till the viewfinder shows your coin in the middle of the viewfinder. Take Nadir shot. In this case you have to use the Full method for Viewpoint correction described in PTGui.

              Click image for larger version

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              Try positive pitch settings and take your shots around and stitch without Z and N to see if you can close the Zenith hole.

              By the way: you have to read and use the fixing screw on different sides of R1, 0° and 7.5° on the left, +5° on the right.


              Last edited by hindenhaag; 09-07-2012, 10:05 AM.


              • #8
                I do not understand why people continue to recommend the R1/R10 for panoramas that require a separate Zenith/Nadir shot. We can all agree that when you use the R1/R10 to take a tilted up Zenith shot, the camera has been moved away from the "the point" which can induce non needed stitching errors. Why not use a pano head that is designed to tilt up and down while maintaining "the point"? I do not understand why the best tool for shooting a tilted up Zenth and tilted down Nadir shots is not being recommended.


                • #9
                  WHat is the best tool in your opinion?
                  Because I already have the 360Presicion Adjust Mark II



                  • #10
                    If you already have a pano head that allows you to tilt up for the Zenith and down for the Nadir, why change? The R1/R10 pano head does not offer the same precision your current pano head does when tilting up and down. Don't change.

                    I use my R1 for doing monopod panoramas while on vacation with a Sigma 8mm fisheye lens tilted up 5 degrees. 4 shots around plus 1 hand held Nadir patch shot and I have the entire sphere covered. If I want to use a 10mm lens, I switch to my M1 pano head and tripod. No need to create more work than you need to.