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  • Originally posted by hindenhaag View Post
    Ups, you do not have to measure the thickness of the vertical rail.

    http://homepage.mac.com/hindenhaag/filechute/LRS-M1.tif I have added some signs to understand it better.

    For LRS just add the measurement O + H. Actually we need the lens axis with camera pointing down -90 directly to the rotation center of the rotator. The easiest way is to measure O + H with a ruler. Mount the camera to the upper rail, the slide the lower rail to LRS and fix the clamp. Now the lens axis should be very close to rotation center of the rotator.

    Now add Smooth's "hacksaw method" as I already described below to fine tune the LRS.

    Actually there are two ways to get near the LRS: measurement of O + H, or the "viewfinder method". Viewfinder method: fix camera to upper rail, set pitch= movements up and down to -90 on upper rotator. Now the lens points down to the lower rail. Now open up the LR-clamp, look through the viewfinder and slide the lower rail into place till you see the center of the rotator in the center of the viewfinder. If I remember well, Demon is shooting with a compact camera. So may be he has a "Cross Hair" in the center of his viewfinder. Then he will use this mark to place it on top of the rotation center of the rotator. Let us call it RC.

    With NN3, NN5, you could use the logos center on top of the rotator and before this the fixing screw of lower rail to rotator to center it easily to the center of the viewfinder. With M1 Series, there is no logo to center to. The only possibility to center to are the marks on top of the lower rail clamp besides the lower rail. This is a lot more tricky. Because of this, Nick and I advised to measure the "theoretical LRS" of O + H.

    Anyway, to correct "faults in the camera lens system" use the hacksaw method to fine tune LRS.

    http://www.easypano.com/forum/displa...1&TopicID=4162

    @bbc597: Did I explain it in the right way to understand what we are talking about?
    Feel free to ask.

    Regards,
    Heinz

    Can you comment on the "hacksaw method" using the M1 clamp? With the M1 clamp being larger, you cannot see the rounded edges of the rotator.

    Comment


    • I received my Ultimate M1 and already started trying some other setups like this duel camera setup below.
      http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/duel.jpg
      http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/duel2.jpg

      One of the cameras has a rotator above it for aliment of the 2 cameras.
      The extra rotator near the bottom is being used as a spacer for camera clearance.

      This is a heavy setup with the two 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses, but it's balanced and seems to handle it rather well.
      Setting it up this way also lets the two cameras move together as one.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by bbc597 View Post
        Can you comment on the "hacksaw method" using the M1 clamp? With the M1 clamp being larger, you cannot see the rounded edges of the rotator.
        Ups, sorry did not know this because equipment is on its way.

        To solve this my first attempt would be to cut out a circle of white paper with the diameter of the rotator, place a center line or a cross on top of it to center it to the center marks on the clamp and tape it on the rail.

        Heinz

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Cameleer View Post
          I received my Ultimate M1 and already started trying some other setups like this duel camera setup below.
          http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/duel.jpg
          http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/duel2.jpg

          One of the cameras has a rotator above it for aliment of the 2 cameras.
          The extra rotator near the bottom is being used as a spacer for camera clearance.

          This is a heavy setup with the two 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses, but it's balanced and seems to handle it rather well.
          Setting it up this way also lets the two cameras move together as one.
          Hi,

          I watch this with a big smile on my face to see you solving your questions in a very quick way and find a way around with self made or custom made equipment.

          Looks like you found the REALLY RIGHT STUFF : http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductD...-Panning-Clamp

          Thx for sharing.

          Heinz
          Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-13-2011, 10:30 PM.

          Comment


          • To calibrate a pano head using the hacksaw method when you cannot see all of the rotator, I use a piece of thin carboard cut to a 6" circle (or whatever size works) with a 3/8 hole in the middle. You place this cardboard between the rotator and the tripod head. You do not have to be too precise.

            Comment


            • Thx for the tip DennisS.

              Following the pics I suppose the clamp is 5,5 / 6,5cm and it is square. Diameter of rotator is 6 cm. But the corners of the clamp hang over. Using a cardboard - the word I was missing - below the rotator, it should be wider to be seen from above. May be 3-5".

              Heinz

              BTW: It is a good time to follow up the manuals. from time to time we get some new ones: http://www.nodalninja.com/Manuals/M1...lation_QRG.pdf Thx Bill.
              Last edited by hindenhaag; 04-14-2011, 10:10 AM.

              Comment


              • Thanks to both of you, I'll try the cut out...

                DennisS, that is a cool setup!

                Comment


                • For this center aliment I'm just using the allen head screw that you can see through the lower rail slot.
                  http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/head1.jpg

                  Here's a picture of my setup with a 15mm lens, I still need to set up the other aliment and slide my camera back a little.
                  http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/head2.jpg

                  I have the extra rotator on lower rail for a little more height and it makes for a nice nadir adapter.
                  http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/head3.jpg

                  I love all of the things that you can do with this new pano head!!!

                  Roger Berry

                  Comment


                  • Has anyone notice that once the M1 is level using the lower rail bubble, and then rotated, that the level via the bubble on the lower rail drifts?

                    I'm using the RD16 Rotator with the M1...
                    Last edited by bbc597; 04-14-2011, 11:12 AM. Reason: Added Rotator type

                    Comment


                    • Roger,

                      thx for sharing. I myself found out using the hacksaw method after I have centered by using the screw of the "old NN5 version" with -90 plus laser assistance , I had to correct my lower rail setting. With different Nikon Bodies. To add on Smooth's hacksaw method, I need to use a circle.

                      "Can serve as a nadir adapter" was my first idea seeing your pics with the extra rotator. For those who own one already, we don't have to wait for the one Nick will produce for a much better price.

                      And thx for sharing Roger. This is a proof that because of the "special Nodal Ninja Service" you are fully equipped for the following trip to "Saudi Arabia". I am eager to see the results.

                      You seem to be always good for a "joker" to solve special questions on how to develop or add on to normal equipment.

                      Cheers and success,
                      Heinz


                      come home safe

                      Comment


                      • Roger,

                        thx for sharing. I myself found out using the hacksaw method after I have centered by using the screw of the "old NN5 version" with -90 plus laser assistance , I had to correct my lower rail setting. With different Nikon Bodies. To add on Smooth's hacksaw method, I need to use a circle.

                        "Can serve as a nadir adapter" was my first idea seeing your pics with the extra rotator. For those who own one already, we don't have to wait for the one Nick will produce for a much better price.

                        And thx for sharing Roger. This is a proof that because of the "special Nodal Ninja Service" you are fully equipped for the following trip to "Saudi Arabia". I am eager to see the results.

                        You seem to be always good for a "joker" to solve special questions on how to develop or add on to normal equipment.

                        Cheers and success,
                        Heinz

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by bbc597 View Post
                          Has anyone notice that once the M1 is level using the lower rail bubble, and then rotated, that the level via the bubble on the lower rail drifts?
                          Keep cool man,

                          This is one of the oldest secrets since this bubble leveller exists on Nodal Ninja Products: I will try to solve it. "Does not matter!" . The bubble is very precise, as long as it does not leave the center totally, it is ok. If there might be a problem with a sort of "curved pano", the software will deal with it. But I like the way you try to use the new equipment. Being very precise in the beginning. Using this workflow you will get experience when you have to be very precise, and what may heal your "faults with additional workflow". Leveling in PTGui for example.

                          Just level the first picture and then you leave it alone.

                          But I never had to use it with a little movement of the bubble.

                          We like to get to know about further success with the new Modular Line because you are one of the first guys to be able to use it. Congrats.

                          Cheers,
                          Heinz

                          Comment


                          • Hi bbc597

                            I just checked the bubble level on my setup and the bubble never went outside the black circle.
                            Here are 4 shots showing the bubble level at north, south, east and west.
                            http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/head4.jpg

                            btw, to change my rig from the 2 camera setup back to a 1 camera setup took about 2 minutes.

                            Roger Berry

                            Comment


                            • Nick,

                              I am sure it would be a great "Add On" to M1-x orders in the future to include a plastic "X inch circle plate" with a dove tailed bottom with a center cross on top and a mark at the side to fix it to the center mark of the lower rail clamp to slide along the lower rail. Or one with a 3/8 1/4" plate to place below the rotator as DennisS mentioned?

                              I know you are working hard,
                              but this would be the point on the "i" for NN/Fanotec products. And a great answer to "sharks in the basin".

                              Cheers,
                              Heinz

                              Comment


                              • Again, thanks to the both of you...

                                Roger, when can we see some pic's taken with your setup? The wife says it's for 3D images, is this true?

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