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  • Would it be a problem to place the upper rail (the shorter rail) at 15.5 cm center onto the clamp? Is there enough rail left on the clamp to hold?

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    • Originally posted by bbc597 View Post
      Would it be a problem to place the upper rail (the shorter rail) at 15.5 cm center onto the clamp? Is there enough rail left on the clamp to hold?
      Is the rail MFR-170 (170mm)? it is ok for it. MFR-160 may be a bit insecure.

      Nick
      Fanotec
      We listen. We try harder.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by kabkos View Post
        Hi Heinz,
        you are correct, the RD16 can operate down to 3.75degree increments (96 shots). When I was building the chart I was looking at the rotator head and not the instructions for the rotator, I misread the Degree/2 settings. So, I pulled out the trusty manual and rechecked the lens chart (and boy did I misinterpret the RD16 markings). I have now corrected the lens chart. Glad you caught the error.

        Attached is another attempt at getting the data out correctly. My apologies for misinterpreting the RD16 markings.

        karl

        PS: please feel free to edit and upload the chart, to upload go to the advanced reply section, click on the paperclip, find the file on your computer and upload it to the Nodal Ninja server
        Karl,

        Thx for sharing. That is a great list of data.

        Nick
        Fanotec
        We listen. We try harder.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by nick fan View Post
          Is the rail MFR-170 (170mm)? it is ok for it. MFR-160 may be a bit insecure.

          Nick
          Yes my upper rail is the MFR-170, thanks.

          My Canon DSLR with a 10-22mm at 22mm will not go further than 45 degrees up before hitting the lower clamp, and my 24-70mm at 24mm will hit the lower clamp the 37.5 degree detent stop. (Also my 70-200mm at 70mm will hit the clamp at 37.5, but I'm NOT concern about that)

          Is there a solution I can get to perhaps raise the vertical rail? (MFVR-170C)

          Comment


          • Originally posted by bbc597 View Post
            Yes my upper rail is the MFR-170, thanks.

            My Canon DSLR with a 10-22mm at 22mm will not go further than 45 degrees up before hitting the lower clamp, and my 24-70mm at 24mm will hit the lower clamp the 37.5 degree detent stop. (Also my 70-200mm at 70mm will hit the clamp at 37.5, but I'm NOT concern about that)

            Is there a solution I can get to perhaps raise the vertical rail? (MFVR-170C)
            This can be achieved by using our nadir adapter which has proven to be a very popular and helpful accessory for NN3/4/5. It makes nadir patching much easier. So you kill two birds with one stone.
            The version for Ultimate M series will be out soon.
            Click image for larger version

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            BTW, you can extend the upper rail by installing the QRC-40A via 2 holes at the end of MFR-170.

            Nick
            Last edited by nick fan; 05-15-2011, 06:21 PM.
            Fanotec
            We listen. We try harder.

            Comment


            • Attached is a "wordsmithed" version of the lens chart that I posted earlier. I clarified the "2 pins needed" by stating where the pins need to be placed on the RD16. I know from experience how easy it is to get rattled when you are trying to remember all of the details to capture a panorama.

              regards,
              karl
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • Hello.
                I'm beggining in process of creation a panoramas.
                I'm very like the NodalNinja Head and want to create panoramas using this heads.
                But have a question about choice of needing heads for me, what heads is more suitable for me?

                My technics now: Nikon D90, Nikkor 18-200mm, Nikkor 10.5mm.
                In future I want add to my equipment: Nikkor 14-24mm, Nikkor 70-200mm.
                The purpose: priority - spherical panoramas at home, in cars, rooms etc, less - gigapano...
                Reading information from http://www.nodalninja.com/ web-site I understand that:
                - NN4 is good universal head, but not modular. It is suite for all my current and future lens and body.
                - R1 and R10 is only for fisheye lens
                - M1-L and M1-S - last, modern, perfect quality, comfortable heads.
                - M1-L is not suitable for current 10.5mm lens, I need to byu additional shorter Upper Rail.
                - M1-S is not suitable for future 70-200mm lens, I need to add longer Upper Rail.
                - For M1-series soon will appear special clamp to attach 10.5mm to M1 (M1 + lens ring 10.5+ clamp+ 10.5mm lens). But for what series M1-S or M1-L will be availible this clamp?

                I think that M1 series is best choice for me but what packing list to use?
                Please help.
                May be advice for my conditions already is there in this forum, but reading all forum post is difficult for me (my native language is not English).

                Best regards

                Comment


                • Originally posted by alexovi4 View Post
                  Hello.
                  I'm beggining in process of creation a panoramas.
                  I'm very like the NodalNinja Head and want to create panoramas using this heads.
                  But have a question about choice of needing heads for me, what heads is more suitable for me?

                  My technics now: Nikon D90, Nikkor 18-200mm, Nikkor 10.5mm.
                  In future I want add to my equipment: Nikkor 14-24mm, Nikkor 70-200mm.
                  The purpose: priority - spherical panoramas at home, in cars, rooms etc, less - gigapano...
                  Reading information from http://www.nodalninja.com/ web-site I understand that:
                  - NN4 is good universal head, but not modular. It is suite for all my current and future lens and body.
                  - R1 and R10 is only for fisheye lens
                  - M1-L and M1-S - last, modern, perfect quality, comfortable heads.
                  - M1-L is not suitable for current 10.5mm lens, I need to byu additional shorter Upper Rail.
                  - M1-S is not suitable for future 70-200mm lens, I need to add longer Upper Rail.
                  - For M1-series soon will appear special clamp to attach 10.5mm to M1 (M1 + lens ring 10.5+ clamp+ 10.5mm lens). But for what series M1-S or M1-L will be availible this clamp?

                  I think that M1 series is best choice for me but what packing list to use?
                  Please help.
                  May be advice for my conditions already is there in this forum, but reading all forum post is difficult for me (my native language is not English).

                  Best regards
                  If budget allows, the best candidate is M1L. We now have pre-production offer at 25% discount. It works fine with your Nikon 10.5mm on your D90 or any cameras with 1.5x crop. Only a shaved Nikon 10.5mm on full frame DSLR need optional (inexpensive) accessory.

                  Nick
                  Fanotec
                  We listen. We try harder.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by nick fan View Post
                    if budget allows, the best candidate is m1l. We now have pre-production offer at 25% discount. It works fine with your nikon 10.5mm on your d90 or any cameras with 1.5x crop. Only a shaved nikon 10.5mm on full frame dslr need optional (inexpensive) accessory.

                    Hello nick i just got the m1 l today. What is the inexpensive accessory that i need to buy to use the wide angels or fish eyes? You talk about is in the next text you did.
                    (if budget allows, the best candidate is m1l. We now have pre-production offer at 25% discount. It works fine with your nikon 10.5mm on your d90 or any cameras with 1.5x crop. Only a shaved nikon 10.5mm on full frame dslr need optional (inexpensive) accessory.)
                    nick
                    thank you
                    regards
                    erwin

                    Comment


                    • Hello Any One
                      I am knew to the spheric panoramas, i just want to be sure i get all what i need to be ready when the M1L production is release.
                      Does any one know if i need some thing else beside the M1L and the R16? I am planing to shoot with the 5d & canon 15 mm in portrait mode
                      May be i could get a extra upper reel and cut it if if gets one the way will that help.

                      Comment


                      • An easy leveller (http://store.nodalninja.com/products...with-Case.html) might be a good plus :) You just screw it between top of your tripod and M1L, and it'll allow you to get your M1L levelled in a snap ;)

                        Vincèn
                        French Nodal Ninja Distributor
                        Blog: http://www.skivr.com
                        Online shop: http://magasin.skivr.com
                        Photo gallery: http://flickr.com/skivr
                        Support website: http://support.skivr.com

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by ElPadrino View Post
                          Hello nick i just got the m1 l today. What is the inexpensive accessory that i need to buy to use the wide angels or fish eyes? You talk about is in the next text you did.
                          (if budget allows, the best candidate is m1l. We now have pre-production offer at 25% discount. It works fine with your nikon 10.5mm on your d90 or any cameras with 1.5x crop. Only a shaved nikon 10.5mm on full frame dslr need optional (inexpensive) accessory.)
                          cameras with ultra wide compact fisheye will see a significant portion of the upper rail. You can take more shots to compensate the view blocked by the upper rail. Or you can use a shorter rail or lens ring. But if you want to use a long lens and this ultra wide compact fisheye alternately, you need one more QR clamp (QRC-40B) which slides the QRC-40A on the upper rail. This clamp will be available soon at an introductory price of $49.95.

                          Nick
                          Fanotec
                          We listen. We try harder.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by ElPadrino View Post
                            Hello nick i just got the m1 l today. What is the inexpensive accessory that i need to buy to use the wide angels or fish eyes? You talk about is in the next text you did.
                            (if budget allows, the best candidate is m1l. We now have pre-production offer at 25% discount. It works fine with your nikon 10.5mm on your d90 or any cameras with 1.5x crop. Only a shaved nikon 10.5mm on full frame dslr need optional (inexpensive) accessory.)
                            cameras with ultra wide compact fisheye will see a significant portion of the upper rail. You can take more shots to compensate the view blocked by the upper rail. Or you can use a shorter rail or lens ring. But if you want to use a long lens and this ultra wide compact fisheye alternately, you need one more QR clamp (QRC-40B) which slides the QRC-40A on the upper rail. This clamp will be available soon at an introductory price of $49.95.

                            Nick
                            Fanotec
                            We listen. We try harder.

                            Comment


                            • Thank you Nick I will keep checking the store to ad it to my order when is available.

                              Comment


                              • Hello again,

                                I recieved the pre M1-L the last days and already started testing for LRS and URS. I just began with D3. I will test D90 and D7000 D300s when I finished the big boys 14-24, 24-70, 70-200. Nikkor 10.5, Sigma8mm/f3.5, Samyang 8mm 3.5, Nikkor 16mmm.

                                Is the 18-200 VRII? Please add the model, important cause different model may change in settings. Any preferences?

                                For those who are waiting for the definite models, there should be some Nikon data available and "certified" to let you know what you should order in definite production line.

                                Heinz
                                Last edited by hindenhaag; 05-26-2011, 08:35 AM.

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