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Nikon D5100 settings

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  • Nikon D5100 settings


    I'm replacing my D200/10.5mm with the D5100/10.5mm on a NN5/RD16. Having had to find the NPP myself as I could not find any start point I have settled on A-44 B-78. I've created a template in PTGUi Pro but the zenith still needs a lot a manual control points for a seamless stitch.

    Does anyone have this equipment, if so what are your recommended settings?



  • #2
    Hello Gary,

    If the base plate of the D5100 is the sameas the D5000 then according to

    the top rail setting should remain the sameas for the D200.

    [Perhaps you can confirm this Heinz as Iknow you will be reading this.]

    However the lower rail setting will change.

    Rather than use numbers you can set up yourcamera/lens empirically.

    Align the gold ring of the Nikon 10.5mmwith the vertical access of rotation of your Nodal Ninja looking from the side.
    Viewing the lens from the front, align the center of the lens with the verticalaxis of rotation of your Nodal Ninja.

    If you set up the camera on a tripod,making sure it is level so the vertical axis of rotation is truly vertical,with the light behind the viewfinder, you will see the center of the lens as abright spot and be able to use a vertical line (e.g. a door jamb or plumb line)to align the lens center with the mark on the NN.
    This should give you the required location.
    You can see the NNP positions of the Nikon 10.5mm @:

    Best regards, Hugh.


    • #3
      Hi Gary,

      LRS = Lower Rail setting ( A ) is 47mm, URS = Upper Rail Setting ( B ) is 78mm. This is what I found out.

      LRS is tested with Smooth's method.



      • #4
        Thanks both, I wasn't too far out then! Will try the above settings to see if improves what I'm getting now.




        • #5
          Hi again! I am returning to using the NN5 again after spending some time using the D800 with the R1. I have settled on using it with the D5300 as it has built-in GPS and is better for carrying when hiking, etc . I am getting close to finding the NPP LRS = Lower Rail setting ( A ) is 44mm, URS = Upper Rail Setting ( B ) is 79mm. Still getting some stitching errors but put it down to lack of control points on areas that have large areas of no detail (white ceiling). Any other users out there with suggested settings?




          • #6

            This method will give you very accurate NPP.
            We listen. We try harder.


            • #7
              Hello Garry,

              Are you still using your Nikon 10.5mm with your D5300?
              If so, the NPP for the lens relative to the tilting axis will be the same as it is for the D800 as it is the light entering the lens that determines the NPP as I describe on:
              I switch my 10.5mm beween my D800 and D3200 with an NN3 and line up the gold ring with the tilting axis as a starting point to get the set up for the upper arm.
              I will sometime fine tune the location by shooting panoramas at this set up then moving 1mm at a a time say 3mm in-front then behind this setting then seeing which gives me the best results in PTGui when I run the Optimizer.
              This should be possible with whichever software you use to create your Equirectangular images.
              The number of shots round will affect the best position for the NPP setting.
              The aim is to select the NPP where the incoming rays hit the principal axis of the lens when the ray is at the "join angle" between the shots round so using the diagram at 10.5mm six shots round should give a good result at the gold ring while four shots round should give a good result about 1mm or so in-front of the gold ring.

              To set the lower arm I used to use a plumb line or line or door jamb to line up the centre of the lens over the horizontal rotation point, but the technique I use now is to get the top arm vertical so the camera is looking straight down at the horizontal rotation point and take a shot then use the + key to enlarge the image and repeat this until I am satisfied that the Nodal Ninja logo (horizontal rotation point on my NN3) is exactly in the centre of the image.

              I hope this is of some help.


              • #8
                Thanks for the answers. I've tried a few techniques for finding the entrance pupil and as some of them produce the same result I'm sure I've sussed it. Oddly enough it was exactly the same settings, LR - 47 UR - 78, as the D5100 which I had successfully used a few years back! You can never be sure they haven't moved the tripod screw without trying.

                Hugh, I have only used the D800 with the R1. My 10.5mm is shaved so I use it at +5 when speed is of the essence and a nadir shot is not required. Is that you in the Kent Gillingham?


                • #9
                  Hello Garry,

                  I am in Gillingham in Dorset, not the Gillingham in Kent although I have visited there a few times.

                  Yes, I now use my D800 with a shaved 10.5mm on an R1, but I have used it with the NN3.

                  Which software do you use for creating the Equirectangulars?
                  I use PTGui and find the use of the "template" option useful if I have a subject with bland detail such as blank walls.
                  I guess the other main packages have a similar option.
                  Some time ago I was asked to see if a panorama could be made with a thermal imaging camera and the only way to get a result was to use a template because of the lack of resolution in the thermal images.


                  • #10
                    Thanks Hugh! Have sent you a PM.