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NN4 + Canon 5Dmk3 + Samyang 8mm

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  • NN4 + Canon 5Dmk3 + Samyang 8mm

    Does anyone here use the combination Canon 5Dmk3, Samyang 8mm and NN4?

    If I were to get the NN4, do I also need a nadir adapter?

    What settings are used for this?

    Thanks

  • #2
    The nadir adapter is not an essential purchase. Some find it invaluable, whereas others manage perfectly well without. There's an extended discussion in this thread: http://tinyurl.com/zubuxr3 . An NN4 will be fine with your equipment but precise settings will depend on whether your lens is shaved (the lens hood removed) or not. (The standard lens is intended for APS-C format cameras and doesn't give a full circle image on a full frame camera like the Sigma 8mm does). Whatever you use, it's not difficult to determine the settings yourself. See http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm .

    John

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    • #3
      I use a Samyang 8mm with a Nikon D800, which is full frame like your Canon 5D and shoot 4 shots round at +7.5 which closes the zenith beautifully.
      I could shoot 3 shots round, but prefer the extra overlap for Control Point generation and using the Mask tool in PTGui if there is any movement between shots.

      As it is the lens that controls the set up it is essentially the same rig as yours.

      To get a feel for where the NPP (No Parallax Point(Nodal Point)) should be see:
      http://hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm
      and
      http://michel.thoby.free.fr/SAMYANG/...%20report.html

      The earlier Samyang 8mm lenses had a fixed lens hood, which you would need to "cut off" to get full frame on your D5, but the next generation Samyang 8mm, which I use, has a detachable lens hood which it is important to remember to remove with the lens cap and there are occasions I have shot 2 or 3 shots then had to start again because I have taken the lens cap off and not the lens hood, but perhaps I shouldn't admit to that!

      To close the nadir I take a "hand held" shot vertically downwards where the camera was (or is going to be) for the shots round then use the Viewpoint Correction in PTGui:
      http://www.ptgui.com/examples/vptutorial.html
      It is usually easier to take the downward shot after the shots round as you can get a mental picture of where the camera was for the shots round, but if the scene could be messed up (e.g. leaves on the ground or snow) then I take this shot first, but there is no reason for not doing both.

      I hope this helps, Hugh.

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