No announcement yet.

Nikon D800 and lans for panoramas.

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Nikon D800 and lans for panoramas.

    I'm planing to buy very soon a Nikon D800. I steel not decided what lens should I use for making a spherical panoramas.

    At the moment reasonable for me seems to be to choose between:

    Nikkor AF 14mm f/2.8D ED
    Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED
    Nikkor AF 16mm f/2.8D Fisheye

    Disadvantage of 14mm and 14-24 is lack of possibility to ad filters. On other way I think I could live without it or choose 14-24mm and one of Lee filter system which is designed for this lens but steel don't allow use polarizer.

    What lens is the best in use with D800 and it's 36mpx sensor? Are there any other options? I was thinking also about Nikkor 8mm as D800 big sensor should provide with even that wide lens great amount of detail. Above all the most important for me is quality and than the lowest amount of shoots needed to stitch panorama.

  • #2
    See for the number of shots needed with various Nikon lenses for a full 360x180 panorama. Of course you are not limited to Nikon lenses. Generally, the quality increases as the number of shots increases, but there's no point in producing higher quality than you require, and thereby taking more shots than are necessary. So it's important to decide what you want to end up with as a final stitched panorama. The Nikkor 16mm fisheye would be a good choice, but the Sigma 15mm fisheye is a good alternative that is worthy of consideration.


    • #3

      in first case I should go for the 16mm lens. The 14mm lens is not used very often. 14-24 will give you a wider choice in place of 14mm. The use of polarizer filter is not recommended for panoramas. You already found Lee filter special system for 14-24. Sigma and Zeiss 15mm lenses could be an alternative.

      I personally am disappointed of my Sigma 8mm compared to my shaved 10.5. In case you can do so test the lenses with F8 and F11, depth of field, sharpness and noise on higher ISO.

      Last edited by hindenhaag; 08-30-2012, 10:56 PM.


      • #4
        Probably I will choose between Fisheye-Nikkor 16mm or Zenitar N 16mm F/2.8 Fisheye which I've heard has the same image quality and manual focus which is not a problem in this case. Both are fine to use with filters so that's a plus for them and require 8 images to take with nadir and zenith for full spherical panorama.

        Other option is Nikkor 14-24 which require also 8 images for full panorama and its plus is that it can be use for other things because of it's zoom. Minus it no option for adding filters without dedicated Lee system (some times would be great to use it for landscape ... ).

        Please correct me if there is a mistake in my thinking. Thnx a lot for help.


        • #5

          14-24 will ask two rows to shoot @ zoom 14. So you have to consider to shoot more rows to get higher resolution. This is worth it in calm sites. This means not too much moving around on a calm day with clouds or waves in windy conditions or on busy cross junctions with a lot of people, cars or trams moving around. Check our friend Vincen at Shot with D3.

          The need to shoot more rows to get a full spherical will ask for a more quiet place. Otherwise you might have to spend "hours" to remove ghosts when you have shot people etc moving along the road in bracketing set ups shooting 3, 5, or more shots per stop.
          Stitching will show up more ghosts you have to correct. This means you see a part of a person or car stitching as ghosts because they moved during the time of bracketing shots.

          Shooting on a windy day the clouds will move quickly. Shooting your second row the clouds will have moved compared to their first row position. This will result in stitching errors and ask a lot of time on your PC to correct this, even without bracketing shots.

          Basic decision: use a fisheye to be able to use 4 or 6 shots around on busy sites. Use a prime F/2.8 lens to get shorter shutter speeds. Check out ISO "noise border" to get to know about the point of your ISO setting to avoid noise giving shorter shutter speeds to avoid ghosts.

          To get higher resolution, you will have to use a longer focal lens which will ask for more pics per row and more rows to set up the pano. Bracketing shots will increase the problems.

          Conclusion: in busy places use shorter lenses in busy places, in calm places you can use something like 14-24 to get higher resolution.

          This business is not like a plug and play situation. So you have to decide, but there are a lot of NN users and friends who will try to give a good advice. Based on a lot of own fault decisions, may be a lot of wasted money for wrong decisions. But the forum tries to avoid these mistakes.



          • #6
            Heinz made a great résumé here about the point between focal length and quality ;) Bigger is your focal length, more time it'll take, more shots you'll need, more time stitching will take, but greater quality and resolution you'll get ! and reverse for shorter focal length ! The fact to publish such panos on Internet is not an issue with tools such as KRPano or Panotour as they use tile system to get fast loading whatever resolution of pano is !
            As Heinz pointed out, there is a second detail to consider, will you shoot panos in public places with lot of people around (public places, manifestation) or not easy places (such as ski cabin lifts) or on pole ? In such cases, you are nearly obliged to use fisheye as you can shoot whole spherical pano with just 3/4 shots and that's it, so fast and easy and accept some little moves during shoot.
            To make it short:
            -> fisheye for fast situation, or crowded places, or no need of high resolution
            -> wide angle lens for everything else
            -> telezoom if you want to go in crazy resolutions (but cylindrical in these cases, not spherical).

            I use myself Nikkor 10.5 shaved on FX Nikon body for fast situations or pano without need of high resolution (I have some posted on my blog done during christmas meal ), and in other situations where I have time, 14-24 at 14 or 24mm to get high resolutions and quality ( or !

            Last edited by Vincèn; 09-01-2012, 03:25 AM.
            Retired Nodal Ninja Distributor


            • #7
              hindenhaag I did not now that Nikkor 14-24 require shoots in two rows. I will go for Sigma 15mm f/2.8 EX DG Fisheye which has auto focus. It should produce anyway good quality pano with big D800 sensor. I'm also using Nikkor 24-70mm but with this lens I need to shoot three rows so practically it's pointless to use it in busy places ... Later on I will think about 14-24 as this lens has great image quality.

              Thnx for your help.

              Vincèn could you tell me how many shoots do you need to take with 14-24 @ 14 and @ 24, are you doing this in two or three rows for full pano? hindenhaag mentioned about two but in other place on the web I'm reading about three ... With 24-70 @ 24 I'm doing three rows.

              BTW nice panos :)
              Last edited by LeoNeon; 09-01-2012, 04:57 AM.