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Nadir, Nadir Adaqptor & the D3

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  • Nadir, Nadir Adaqptor & the D3

    Hi all
    I'm relatively new at 360-180...
    Question - Using my D300 and Nikon's 10.5 Fisheye I have been shooting the Nadir as the first shot, have been shooting at a 30 degree elevation and not shooting a Zenith. Is the technique Good, Bad or immaterial? I'm using PTGui Pro...

    Nadir Adaptor and the D3: Have been shooting with my D300 which looks like it may need repairs. I have the NN5, the R-D16 using Manfroto's 055MF4 tripod with their adjustable head center pole and Nodal Ninja's leveler. Has anyone any experience using the D3 or similar wight with the Nadir Adaptor? Any problems I should be aware of?

    Greatly appreciate your comments and advice - Thanks

    Last edited by BaltimoreBob; 07-18-2011, 02:03 PM.

  • #2
    Hi Bob and welcome to the forum,

    with D300_10.5 you should shoot 6 around at 0 pitch, 1 Zenith at +90 and 2 nadir shots with NN Nadir Adapter at -90. This is the safest way to get a good pano and good Zenith and Nadir.

    Be aware to use the right set up of the tripod as shown in the picture and get free space between the tip of the leg of tripod in Nadir1 and corner of the NN Adapter in Nadir2

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	24773 Relevel with EZ-Leveller II before you shoot Nadir2.

    System is the same for NN3/4/5 M1.

    Last edited by hindenhaag; 07-18-2011, 10:47 PM.


    • #3
      Hello Bob,

      I guess that if it works for you it is OK, but I have found that tilting the camera upwards works well for subjects such as outdoors where the sky has little or no detail for PTGui to create Control Points, but can cause mayhem if there is a lot of detail in the tops of the images, such as in a room with an ornate ceiling.

      I use a Nikon 10.5mm on a D300 and D3100 and actually take 8 horizontal images at 45 intervals with one of two (2nd at 90) to the zenith and PTGui usually gives me a "very good" when I Optimize.

      The 6 horizontal images at 60 intervals that Heinz mentions is the normally recommended number, but I prefer the additional overlap as it it gives me more freedom in using PTGui's Mask tool to sort out any movement between images.

      If you load your images into PTGui and after using "2. Align images..." look at the Panorama Editor (Ctrl+E if it doesn't show) and click on the individual image tabs yo will see the actual coverage of the images.
      With a +30 tilt you will notice that there is massive overlap between the images at the top.

      It would be interesting to hear others comments.

      Best regards, Hugh.


      • #4
        Heinz, Hugh
        Thanks Much for your comments and advice - I will put all to use.

        Any thoughts about using Nikon's D5 with the Nadir Adaptor given its weight?
        Yes, I can certainly try it but thought I woudl ask before doing so.
        Again - thanks


        • #5
          Hello Bob,

          <<Any thoughts about using Nikon's D5 with the Nadir Adaptor given its weight?>>

          I hope that someone with more knowledge on this can answer you as I am afraid that my budget only stretches to APS-C sensor bodies.
          Although I have both a D300 and D3100 I tend to use the D3100 although the D300 is a much higher specification because it is lighter.
          It also has more Mps but I cannot see any visual difference in the final panoramas from either bodies once PTGui and Pano2VR have done their processing, but I am sure you will with a "full frame" body.

          Best regards, Hugh.


          • #6

            NN5 with RD16 is 1075 gr, Nadir Adapter for NN3/4/5 is 152 gr, 1227 gr in total. Same with RD8 is 40 gr less: 1187 gr.

            Some more weights: R1 Nadir/Zenith Adapter 154 gr

            Footplate for pole with Mini Rotator 176gr

            Top R1 with Quick Mount Mini Clamp 241 gr

            M1, Nadir Adapter, RD16 1717 gr
            Last edited by hindenhaag; 07-20-2011, 03:40 AM.


            • #7
              Sorry if my inquirey was unclear - wasn't seeking the weights of the variouse components...
              I'm concerned about the ability of the NN5 with the Nadir Adaptor to accomodate the D3+(whatever lens) if my D300 has to go to the rerpair shop. I bought the NN5 because (as I now recollect) the write-up specified that it could handle the weight of full-frame cameras. Specifically, I'm concerned aboiut the Nadit Adaptor - will it handle that weigth? (I assume I'll need a counter-weight). As I mentioned, I certainly can try it but as I'd rather not create damage while testing I thought it wise to ask about others experiences.


              • #8
                Hi Hugh
                I'm only looking at using the D3 becasue my D300 may need to go into the repair shop - I totally agree about the weight. I agree, it will be interesting to see results, especially with the full-frame fisheye - especially if I can duplicate a D300 panorama.


                • #9
                  Sorry, now I got you.

                  No problem. I use D3 with 145-24 for example on NN5 with Nadir Adapter without any problem. But, as you can see on the pictures, I always add a EZ-Leveller II below the Rotator. Specially with the D3 and heavier lenses the torque will bend the system down a little bit and you can easily re level the bubble of NN5 to the center of the ring. That will be ok for the second Nadir shot. After shooting Nadir2 the first thing I do is to close the Nadir Adapter and bring back the camera to a safer position above the tripod. But you have to use a good tripod.


                  BTW: you will like the D3. Helps a lot in crowded places where you need short shutter speeds. Just raise the ISO without being afraid to get noise, easy bracketing in CL mode, etc. When you shave the 10,5, you get around with 4 shots on FX D3. 16mm works fine with D3. But be aware of Nikon Rumors, end of august two dslr bodies will be announced to be in the shops in autumn. May be D4. Either you will get a new D4, very expensive in the beginning, or a D3s with a nice lowered price.


                  • #10
                    Thanks Heinz, I thought you might come up with the answer.

                    Bob, Yes I understand - a second body means peace of mind, but as Heinz has mentioned, the lens hood on the 10.5mm lens will cut in to the image on a full frame body.
                    I am not sure I would have the courage to shave the lens hood off my 10.5mm!
                    Although the lens hood will be visible in the images I would suggest that 6 shots around (or maybe 8) + Zenith and Nadir shots will still work.
                    A friend shot a full 360 panorama with a full frame Kodak camera and Nikon 10.5mm lens with the lens hood intact and PTGui created a good result even though all the images had the lens hood obscuring the corners.
                    The attached shot was on 35mm film from:
                    I will be interested to hear how you get on.

                    Best regards, Hugh.
                    Attached Files


                    • #11
                      Thanks - I feel better about giving it a go...- I did confirm my D300 has to go for repairs and I'll use my D3 with Nikon's 16mm (full-frame)fisheye.
                      I use two leveling devices - the first is Manfrotto's adjustable center column then I fine tune with the EZ-leveler. So far I not given serious thought to shaving the lens...
                      That ISO trick is neat isn't it. I also shoot dragon flies and I use use Apeture wide open and the ISO at a minimum of 1000 -


                      • #12
                        I will let you know...
                        Bye the way, I'll be using Nikon's 16mm fisheye with my D3. I also am reluctant to shave my lense...
                        Thanks for the link - lot of good information there to supplement you and Heinz. Saved it to my Favorites.
                        And my regards to you


                        • #13
                          Hi Bob,

                          in case you might think about it: