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Johnytuono
08-28-2013, 01:07 PM
Hi
Been finding the NPP point and found it at 156mm on the upper rail for my D800 with 14-24mm on. Trouble is when I go to shoot the Zenith shot the clamp knob hits the lower rail thus not letting me shoot straight up. I do have the Nadir adaptor on to raise it up but it's a few mm not raised enough. Is there any other way? Is there a clamp with a smaller (shorter) knob? Is there a longer vertical rail, I already have the longer upper and lower rails.
Thanks
John

hindenhaag
08-28-2013, 02:30 PM
Hi John,

Sorry to say, you have already tried the solution to come out of your problem: the Nadir Adapter. This normally raises the vertical rail to get freedom for the zenith shot. There is no other vertical rail to change it to.

Solution: shooting the Zenith, open up the upper rotator clamp, raise the upper rail, go to +90 pitch, and let the upper rail fall back to the correct URS. Close the upper rotator clamp and take the zenith shot. I hope this will work. I'll test it tomorrow.

Nick has made an extra block to raise the vertical height, but I think you can not adapt it to the nadir adapter because it is not designed to serve as an "in between" block between lower rail fixed to it by screws and the Nadir Adapter. This block is designed to be fixed to the lower rail and the vertical rail is attached by the vertical rail clamp. The block we would need, should have longer screws, going through the block to attach it to the bottom of the nadir adapter by the screws.

http://shop.nodalninja.com/m1l-m2-series-vertical-extender/

As I said, I'll test the situation tomorrow.

Another solution would be to shoot 2x with the pitch blocked by the knob 180 visa versa.

So long,
Heinz

Johnytuono
08-28-2013, 02:54 PM
Hi Heinz
Yes I'd already thought of just raising the rail just for the zenith shot but then didn't want to mess about re-setting to the numbers....are you saying there's a stop screw I can put in place? I've already used the longish screw (the optional M5 screw) for the Nadir adaptor (I used the one from the M1 set as my adaptor didn't come with one). I think just a smaller knob on the clamp would be enough to clear the rail. Would a thin metal plate suffice?
Btw very impressed with the panohead.....even without getting my Npp spot on I was impressed with how easy it was to set up and use and get far better results than I had been getting. Although the bag of screws can be a bit mis-sleading.
Thanks
John

hindenhaag
08-29-2013, 12:41 AM
Hi John,

It's only a little that misses. I'll make a plate for us cause I need one too. There are no screws in the set that you could use.

Heinz

Johnytuono
08-29-2013, 07:26 AM
Hi Heinz
Thanks I will be very interested.
John

nick fan
08-29-2013, 11:43 AM
Hi John,

Sorry to hear the issue. what camera plate are you using?
I thought the vertical rail is pretty tall with the nadir adapter. Also even if you don't take a "zenith shot" at +90 deg, you should still be able to cover the zenith completely.
There are some ready solutions. I made a spacer block for QRC-40A. With this block, you can reverse the QRC with handle pointing to the front. I am not sure this is convenient for your camera though. I can also try to make a shorter knob for you. But I think I can only shorten a few mm. How many mm clearance do you need?
I can make you an integrated stop plate so that you can go to your preset NPP easily after sliding the rail up a bit for +90 deg up shot. I have been developing tools to allow customers to make stop plate themselves.

Nick

Johnytuono
08-29-2013, 03:16 PM
Hi Nick
I have a Kirk 'L' bracket attached for my D800 if that's any help.
Shortening the knob by 3mm, preferrably 4mm would be ideal Nick. I don't fancy the idea of reversing the QRC tbh. I would love an integrated stop plate though for when I take everything apart. Please inform me on the situation with both items ( the knob and plate).
Have just done an internal pano on a VERY tight space and it came out perfect!
Here's some numbers if anyone's interested
Nikon D800, no battery grip, Kirk 'L' bracket
With Nadir adapter (vertical rail to the left) LRS 136mm
With Nadir adapter (vertical rail to the right) LRS 157mm
Nikon 14-24mm @14mm
URS 156mm


Btw Nick, what's the difference between you making me an integrated stop plate and F2106 on the accessories page?

nick fan
08-29-2013, 08:54 PM
Hi Nick
I have a Kirk 'L' bracket attached for my D800 if that's any help.
Shortening the knob by 3mm, preferrably 4mm would be ideal Nick. I don't fancy the idea of reversing the QRC tbh. I would love an integrated stop plate though for when I take everything apart. Please inform me on the situation with both items ( the knob and plate).
Have just done an internal pano on a VERY tight space and it came out perfect!
Here's some numbers if anyone's interested
Nikon D800, no battery grip, Kirk 'L' bracket
With Nadir adapter (vertical rail to the left) LRS 136mm
With Nadir adapter (vertical rail to the right) LRS 157mm
Nikon 14-24mm @14mm
URS 156mm


Btw Nick, what's the difference between you making me an integrated stop plate and F2106 on the accessories page?

I will see if I can make ashorter knob first.
An integrated rail stop is like this.
1031

hindenhaag
08-29-2013, 10:37 PM
Nick,

It's about 3mm that miss in height. URS 156 hit the rail, set to 153 URS it moves inside the lower rial to +90. I maid a plate placed in between Lower Rail and Nadir Adapter. Today I will get longer screws to be fitted in the bottom of Nadir Adapter. I'll send pics when it is ready and it would be nice if you could make plates for us. Is the brass tube glued to the normal screws? They to be longer too.

Heinz

Johnytuono
08-30-2013, 07:48 AM
Thanks for the very helpful replies.
Nick please let me know when/if the clamp is ready and also I would be interested in the integral rail......how do I go about getting the rail.
Thanks
John

nick fan
08-30-2013, 09:07 AM
Nick,

It's about 3mm that miss in height. URS 156 hit the rail, set to 153 URS it moves inside the lower rial to +90. I maid a plate placed in between Lower Rail and Nadir Adapter. Today I will get longer screws to be fitted in the bottom of Nadir Adapter. I'll send pics when it is ready and it would be nice if you could make plates for us. Is the brass tube glued to the normal screws? They to be longer too.

Heinz

Hi Heinz,

Thanks a lot for the data. Yes, making a spacer for nadir adapter is a good solution.
Yes, the brass tube is glued to screw. I can make loner one too.

Nick

nick fan
08-30-2013, 09:10 AM
Thanks for the very helpful replies.
Nick please let me know when/if the clamp is ready and also I would be interested in the integral rail......how do I go about getting the rail.
Thanks
John

Hi John,

I am developing tools to allows customers or resellers to make the integrated stop plates easily. I can make you one with the settings you provide. Each setting must be separated by 5mm.

Nick

Johnytuono
08-30-2013, 11:56 AM
Hi Nick
Thanks.....so I need to find the point at URS for the all lenses I'm going to use?

nick fan
08-30-2013, 08:08 PM
Hi Nick
Thanks.....so I need to find the point at URS for the all lenses I'm going to use?

yes, all points you want to have presets. You can still bypass the presets if it is >0.5mm apart from preset.

Nick

hindenhaag
09-02-2013, 04:36 AM
Spacer for M1-L Nadir Adapter:

1039103710381036103310341035

The spacer is 6mm thick, the original screws are replaced by 2x 25mm and one by 16mm. The thread of the screws is M5. The length of the brass tube is 17mm and it is glued to the threads.

The spacer allows a freedom up to 158mm URS to move into Zenith Position.

John, please send your address via IM.
Heinz

Johnytuono
09-02-2013, 09:08 AM
Hi Heinz
Thanks very much for this.....I have emailed you before I saw this posting.......if that's not ok please let me know. Are the screws and brass tubing readily available or specially made?
Thanks again.
John

hindenhaag
09-02-2013, 12:26 PM
Hi John,

The screws have been readily available in a special store : fabory, where I get my BSW threads as well. The brass tube is a ready made one, 6mm standard but you have to cut it to length with a tube cutting instrument. First you have to fit the tube to let the screw go through. Then you have to make them go through the hole in the lower rail by grinding them down with 260 paper to fit the hole.

I'll send the screws and the plate tomorrow. I think this is the quickest and easiest way to solve the problem. It is specially hard alloy I used. May be Nick can make a copy for everyone in case there is a question for this spacer.

Pleasure to help you, this is a special part of Nodal Ninja Fanotec service.-)

Heinz.

Johnytuono
09-02-2013, 01:45 PM
Thanks again Heinz and Fanotec!
John

nick fan
09-02-2013, 07:05 PM
Hi John,

May be Nick can make a copy for everyone in case there is a question for this spacer.


yes, I will make some and keep them in stock.
I have shortened a knob too. Maybe that will be the standard in the future.

Nick

hindenhaag
09-03-2013, 11:30 AM
Thx to you Nick,
we all are happy with your engagement to the questions of customers.

Heinz

hindenhaag
09-13-2013, 08:38 AM
Hi folks,

The latest version of the Nadir Adapter uses a 1/4" BSW thread screw for the third screw in place of 5mm diameter one. This one has to be adapted to the rail.
Just to let you know. I was surprised, because John asked me about this screw and that it won't fit. The new one is on it's way.

@Nick, there is a question for another spacer. How can it be ordered? Thx.

Heinz

Kidraver
09-13-2013, 09:11 AM
so i guess there is no point iin me ordering a nadir adapter for my 14-24 at this point then, what a kerfuffle.

Johnytuono
09-13-2013, 11:52 AM
Kidraver...even with the camera not fully pointed up, a zenith shot is still possible.....it's just that I'm a perfectionist lol. Also, as mentioned earlier by Heinz, a temporary measure is to increase the distance of the upper rail for the zenith shot. For what it's worth, i took a zenith shot at least 15 degrees out and it still stitched.
John

Kidraver
09-13-2013, 01:24 PM
Nice one, thanks for that, bit of clarity never 'urt anyone, i am actually fascinated to see how a large spherical shot with a bigger lens looks without a nadir and a zenith, probably crap, lol.

nick fan
09-13-2013, 08:09 PM
Kidraver...even with the camera not fully pointed up, a zenith shot is still possible.....it's just that I'm a perfectionist lol. Also, as mentioned earlier by Heinz, a temporary measure is to increase the distance of the upper rail for the zenith shot. For what it's worth, i took a zenith shot at least 15 degrees out and it still stitched.
John

Hi John,

For a high quality lens like the 14-24 mm, I guess whether you take the zenith shot at +90 deg or +75 deg, you won't see any difference. In fact sometimes, it helps to take a "zenth" shot at a lower angle to include more features to link the other images.
Anyhow, we are making the spacer for the nadir adapter and will be offered at a very low price.

Nick