RS-1/D800/16mm/nadir adapter shooting pattern [Archive] - Nodal Ninja Forum

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mosleyh
04-12-2013, 08:43 PM
With an RS-1/D800/16mm/nadir adapter, I've been trying 6 shots around at 90 degrees, 1 nadir and 1 zenith at -90 and +90 respectively but I'm less than satisfied with the results. that pattern requires lots of photoshop on the nadir and it's sometimes a struggle to stitch the zenith because there's not much there besides sky. I've tried 6 shots around at -30 and 6 at +30 with one nadir and it stitches much better, but that many shots seems inefficient to me. It also requires better masking tools than the ones in the current version of autopano.


Can anyone suggest other shooting patterns that might work better?

hindenhaag
04-14-2013, 08:00 AM
Hi,

In place of shooting the zenith at +90 with only blue sky around you could shoot 2x +60 180 visa versa. You could also try to shoot around at +7,5 pitch to close the zenith by the shots around. Then you need to take the Nadir1 and Nadir2 shots by use of the NN3,NN4,NN5 Nadir Adapter. Or do a handheld or any other way to take the Nadir Shots. You have to test it.

There is no sense in taking shots at + - 30 to do your job.

Kind regards,
Heinz

mosleyh
04-14-2013, 03:13 PM
Precisely the kind of advice I was seeking.

I have the nadir adapter. Just to clarify, when you mention Nadir1 and Nadir2, which of the 3 rotation stops (90, 180, 270) on the Nadir adapter do you refer to?

Thanks Heinz.

hindenhaag
04-14-2013, 09:42 PM
Opposite site of closed. -0 > 0-

Can you send me a set of pics?

Heinz

John Houghton
04-15-2013, 12:26 AM
I've tried 6 shots around at -30 and 6 at +30 with one nadir and it stitches much better, but that many shots seems inefficient to me.
That shooting pattern can work well outdoors in windy conditions when there are clouds moving rapidly overhead. By shooting the upper row as quickly as possible, you can capture a reasonably coherent view of the complete sky. Smartblend can usually sort out any minor blending problems. Other shooting patterns can introduce fatal delays in capturing different parts of the sky that may cause severe alignment difficulties when you come to do the stitch. I have one panorama that has so far resisted all my attempts to get an acceptable result due to such problems. Wholesale substitution of the sky can often be the only solution, but is not always practical. Blue skies are considerably less troublesome - at least when stitching with PTGui. With that, you can easily position all the images according to their known nominal shooting angles, and control points are then only needed to fine tune the alignment of the images with each other. The slightly imperfect alignment of blue sky images without features for control points is of no consequence and they should blend in perfectly smoothly.

John

mosleyh
04-15-2013, 06:24 AM
Opposite site of closed. -0 > 0-

Can you send me a set of pics?

Heinz

I will send a set as soon as I have the opportunity to test - thank you.

Still not quite grasping your meaning on Nadir1 and Nadir2, though.

Since the Nadir adapter opens clockwise, I would call the four possible positions 0deg(closed), 90deg (first stop), 180deg(second stop - opposite of closed), 270deg (last stop). So, if I'm shooting 2 Nadir shots, and one of them is 180deg(second stop - opposite of closed), what's the other?

hindenhaag
04-15-2013, 07:18 AM
Hi,

The positions you use to shoot the nadir2 is the 180 Position.

Workflow: you shoot your 6 shots around, now 1 click further to get to the starting point. Now move up to shoot the zenith @+90. Then move down to Nadir1 @-90. Now move your tripod side ways by min DPD = Double pivot distance. Open up the Nadir Adapter to opposite side of third leg and shoot Nadir2. That's it.

849850852853854855

Heinz

mosleyh
04-15-2013, 10:39 AM
AH! Now I understand. Thanks for your patience, Heinz!

mosleyh
04-22-2013, 07:17 AM
I tried one row at +7.5 deg. but that still did not close the zenith. It does use more of the FOV of the Nadir shots, which seems to make the stitching easier.

I added one additional shot at +45, which closes the zenith perfectly and has plenty of image to tie into the main row.

Now I'm on to trying various Nadir techniques. . .

Metroruss
04-26-2013, 12:29 PM
Hi,

Great thread.
I am in a similar boat. We just got the NN4/RD16 with Nadir adapter yesterday and I am just about ready to head out to take my 1st panos with it :)
Thanks for posting this question which helps me out and thanks to the replies which help alot :)
That pictorial really helped me to understand what one should do.

Have a great day everyone!!

mosleyh
05-13-2013, 08:19 AM
For anyone that may be interested, FoCal calibration software says that the sharpest aperture for (at least my copy of) the Nikkor 16mm is f8, not 5.6 as I had read elsewhere. Your mileage may vary of course.

For anyone that isn't aware of FoCal, here's their site: http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/

hindenhaag
05-13-2013, 09:25 AM
Hi Mos,

thx for the info.

BTW: new Video about use of Nadir Adapter.

Heinz

mosleyh
05-28-2013, 04:14 PM
Based on suggestions received from one of the mods of the Autopano forum, I believe I've found my ideal shooting pattern for D800e/16mm.

6 shots around at -10, zenith at +65, Nadir1, Nadir2 gives me an excellent stitch (RMS 3.15 on my first test!), and only very minor touchups after masking in APG

mosleyh
06-01-2013, 04:42 PM
One addition - the touchups I was having to do were to remove the remains of the tripod legs from the shot.I've found that if after shooting Nadir0, I pick the tripod up, rotate the legs 60 degrees and shoot a second nadir 0, I no longer have any retouching to do.

Johnytuono
09-21-2013, 08:52 AM
Hi
Sorry to bring up an old thread but.....if the tripod was set up with the single leg to the left, shoot the nadir, rotate on the adapter, shoot nadir2, then no touch-ups would be needed.....or have I got that wrong?
I've just purchased a 16mm Nikon and thinking of buying this lighter set up and using my M1-L for my 14-24mm (D800)... or is there a lens clampr available to add to this set-up?
Thanks
John

mosleyh
09-21-2013, 10:43 AM
If I understand your description correctly, you'd still have touch ups to do. The points where the tripod legs contact the ground would be covered in every shot (since you never moved the tripod)

Johnytuono
09-21-2013, 10:55 AM
If I understand your description correctly, you'd still have touch ups to do. The points where the tripod legs contact the ground would be covered in every shot (since you never moved the tripod)
Hi
I don't think you should have re-touching to do because you should rotate the head on the nadir adapter (and not the base rotator) and then move the tripod double the pivot distance at least .....that's what you do on the M1 anyway.....maybe it's different with this set-up.
John

mosleyh
09-21-2013, 12:19 PM
You didn't mention moving the tripod in your original description. If you do that you should be fine with no touch ups, providing you don't have any shadows to deal with.

Johnytuono
09-21-2013, 01:10 PM
Hi
Sorry, I wasn't criticizing your technique.....I was just trying to be helpful. I think we got crossed wires somewhere :001_smile:
John