RS-1 upper rotator [Archive] - Nodal Ninja Forum

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stalwart
03-05-2013, 07:11 AM
hi all,

no sepatate forum list for the RS-1 yet, so dumped this in here....

Good bit of kit, as usual, from Fanotec. Only disappointment is positive stops on upper rotator as per NN4. Any way the upper rotator from the NN4 (or even the NN5) with 15 degree stops can be incorporated into the upper rotator of the RS-1...?

cheers

Stu

hindenhaag
03-05-2013, 08:29 AM
Hi Stu,

There is already a R1-S Custom Head in the list.

I re checked the upper rotator for you and it has 5 Step Marks on the detend ring. This also incorporates a 15 step in the upper rotator.

Cheer,
Heinz

stalwart
03-05-2013, 09:20 AM
Hi Stu,

There is already a R1-S Custom Head in the list.

I re checked the upper rotator for you and it has 5 Step Marks on the detend ring. This also incorporates a 15 step in the upper rotator.

Cheer,
Heinz

Hi Heinz,

thanks for the swift reply. Already a Custom Head on what list - a wish / development list....? Is this already available then?

I have received an R1-S from Tony @ Red Door today - so know it has 5 degree steps on the detend ring - but is fluid, not with positive stops like the NN4 / standard NN5. As the R1-S incorporates parts / elements from the NN3 / NN5, can the upper rotator be swapped out?

cheers

Stu

hindenhaag
03-05-2013, 10:48 AM
Hi Stu,

The design is with a "fluid Rotator". The rotator has the advantage to set it manually to any set up you like to. For example 7,5. The whole design is made to present the smallest design as possible. Because it is used with clamp design, this is the smallest design with a rotator as possible. If you look to the an NN4 Rotator, it has to have a minimum size to allow the upper rail to step into the "gaps in the upper rotator". In this case the upper rotator has to have a bigger size. The clamp connection offers the possibility to move the camera with the lens ring in a place where the weight is nearly in balance. So I like this compromise to offer more settings - for example 7,5 - with a small size.

May be Nick will think about adapting parts of NN4 into the rotator. But is is always a question of size.

Heinz

stalwart
03-06-2013, 12:06 AM
Hi Heinz,

thanks for the detailed reply. I understand now...! I don't have a NN4 - I use an M1-L - so am not able to compare parts, but the construction of the RS-1 does look similar in design to the NN3 / NN5. Shame, as positive stops would be useful for a lightweight head with more repeatable / template stitching able to do nadir at NPP. This is the reason I upgraded over the years from NN3 to NN5 to M1-L.......

PS - have found the RS-1 in the list - so can this thread please be moved there out of NN4 list - thanks!

Stu

hindenhaag
03-06-2013, 02:08 AM
Hi Stalwart,

To get a good nadir stitch, you can use the NN3 NN4 NN5 Nadir Adapter as well on the R1-S.

809810811

R1-S is a "derivate from NN3". Smaller and lighter. Everything is a compromise, sorry to say.

Enjoy your equipment.
Heinz

nick fan
03-08-2013, 12:25 AM
Hi Heinz,

thanks for the detailed reply. I understand now...! I don't have a NN4 - I use an M1-L - so am not able to compare parts, but the construction of the RS-1 does look similar in design to the NN3 / NN5. Shame, as positive stops would be useful for a lightweight head with more repeatable / template stitching able to do nadir at NPP. This is the reason I upgraded over the years from NN3 to NN5 to M1-L.......

PS - have found the RS-1 in the list - so can this thread please be moved there out of NN4 list - thanks!

Stu

Hi Stu,

Indeed, we can have an RS-2 that use parts from NN4. It will have 15 deg stops. I will make it available at the end of this month.

Nick

stalwart
03-21-2013, 10:40 AM
Hi Stu,

Indeed, we can have an RS-2 that use parts from NN4. It will have 15 deg stops. I will make it available at the end of this month.

Nick

Hi Nick,

That is great news! I use an M1-L but that is an overkill really for a 5DMkII with 8 / 15mm on. An RS-1 with definite click stops will be a great compromise. Will I be able to adapt my RS-1, or will the RS-2 be totally different. Only ask as I haven't yet used the RS-1, so will probably return to Tony at Red Door VR here in the UK and swap.....

cheers

Stu

stalwart
03-21-2013, 10:41 AM
There is already a R1-S Custom Head in the list.

can this thread please be moved to the R1-S list....?

thanks

Stu

stalwart
03-21-2013, 10:48 AM
It will have 15 deg stops.

PS - any chance of shallower stops say @ 7.5 degrees....? Just useful for 550d / Sigma 8mm combo as per my R10 for closing the zenith......

Also, once available, how soon would you be shipping to your resellers (i.e. Tony @ Red Door in UK?)

Stu

nick fan
03-21-2013, 08:27 PM
PS - any chance of shallower stops say @ 7.5 degrees....? Just useful for 550d / Sigma 8mm combo as per my R10 for closing the zenith......

Also, once available, how soon would you be shipping to your resellers (i.e. Tony @ Red Door in UK?)

Stu


The NN4 and hence RS2 has options to offset the rotator angle by 5/7.5/10 deg. So you can have +/-5/7.5/10 deg for single row spherical using (cropped) circular fisheye.

Nick

msimons
04-01-2013, 06:44 AM
I hope the RS2-clamp will be a little longer than the one on RS1 to adjust the NPP. The images above look like the NPP should be near the golden ring...

nick fan
04-03-2013, 07:52 AM
The clamp is the same. Clamping is very secured even with 20mm contact. So It should not be issue. We can also offer longer lens ring plate if larger adjstment distance is needed. Let me know if you find any problem. I have sent one RS2 No Lower Rotator to Red Door. You can use RD16II or RD5 with it. RS2 with default rotator (same as NN4/5) will be available next 2 weeks.

Nick

sdphoto
04-04-2013, 12:51 PM
The NPP for the Nikon 10.5mm fisheye lens is just behind the gold ring. Some people use the gold ring, and it works for them. Once you have found the proper NPP, there is just enough space on the lens ring plate to attach a Stop Plate (NN F2106) so you attach the lens accurately every time. If the upper clamp were any longer, you wouldn't be able to use the Stop Plate, and you would have to use the lines on the clamp and the scale on the ring plate to set your NPP each time.

838839840

Steve Daniels
St. Petersburg, FL

nick fan
04-04-2013, 07:45 PM
Hi Steve,

Thanks for sharing. In fact, I can make integrated stop plates that snaps to the lens ring plate if customers provide me the setting.


Nick

mosleyh
04-05-2013, 07:13 AM
Hi Steve,

Thanks for sharing. In fact, I can make integrated stop plates that snaps to the lens ring plate if customers provide me the setting.


Nick

That sounds very interesting to me - what would such a service cost?

msimons
04-05-2013, 01:09 PM
I dont think 20mm is enough. Why just made the clamp 10 or 20mm longer to one side?

Tobias Vollmer modified my ring to use AF/M and Distance-Scale even if the ring is mounted: https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/581198_467711813256469_1177974103_n.jpg

I planned to extend the cutouts 90 rotated so the ring will fit my pole (lens ring plate below) and also the RS-2 (lens ring plate on the right side). If i use a longer lens ring plate it will be visible all the time i shoot panoramas with my pole.

When do you ship the RS-2 to other resellers (thaler-design in austria or pano-store in germany? Red Door's shipping to germany costs 122 US$ (:confused1:), thats 10 times more than insured shipping from germany to uk would cost :001_smile:

nick fan
04-05-2013, 06:17 PM
That sounds very interesting to me - what would such a service cost?

$9.95. But it can take a while (2 weeks).

Nick

nick fan
04-05-2013, 06:21 PM
I dont think 20mm is enough. Why just made the clamp 10 or 20mm longer to one side?
When do you ship the RS-2 to other resellers (thaler-design in austria or pano-store in germany? Red Door's shipping to germany costs 122 US$ (:confused1:), thats 10 times more than insured shipping from germany to uk would cost :001_smile:

We are using mostly existing parts to build RS1 and RS2. If longer adjustment is needed, changing rail from existing models will be easier.
You can ask thaler-design to pre-order one for you. Price is slightly cheaper than NN4 equivalent.


Nick

mosleyh
04-11-2013, 05:12 PM
I just received a set of stop plates from Bill Bailey, and I seem to have a clearance issue. There's only enough clearance on the lens ring plate for half of the stop plate. As you can see, this causes it to go out of alignment when tightened down.

Nick - if your integrated stop plate would solve this, please let me know how to get that process started. I'm using a Nikkor 16mm, and the setting that I need is 2.4.

msimons
04-20-2013, 02:36 AM
When will the RS2 be in stock at my local retailer. I dont want to preorder a prototype.

nick fan
04-20-2013, 07:37 AM
I just received a set of stop plates from Bill Bailey, and I seem to have a clearance issue. There's only enough clearance on the lens ring plate for half of the stop plate. As you can see, this causes it to go out of alignment when tightened down.

Nick - if your integrated stop plate would solve this, please let me know how to get that process started. I'm using a Nikkor 16mm, and the setting that I need is 2.4.

We have semi universal integrated stop plate. It should work. I will check it out and let you know. I can offer you a free unit.

Nick

nick fan
04-20-2013, 07:39 AM
When will the RS2 be in stock at my local retailer. I dont want to preorder a prototype.

if you want RS2 with RD16II, you can get one now. For RS2 with default basic rotator, you need to wait for end of this month.


Nick

c0g null
05-07-2013, 10:18 PM
The clamp is the same. Clamping is very secured even with 20mm contact. So It should not be issue. We can also offer longer lens ring plate if larger adjustment distance is needed.

Nick

For me, on the Canon 8/15, LPP puts the clamp at closer to 15mm than 20mm of contact (for 6 clicks), I would very much like to acquire a longer plate for the lens ring. I've been thinking about extending my pole with a lower unit, but the the thin connection with the RS-1 has made me hesitant.

nick fan
05-09-2013, 02:13 AM
For me, on the Canon 8/15, LPP puts the clamp at closer to 15mm than 20mm of contact (for 6 clicks), I would very much like to acquire a longer plate for the lens ring. I've been thinking about extending my pole with a lower unit, but the the thin connection with the RS-1 has made me hesitant.

The plate used for Canon 8-15mm is LRP45X that extends 35mm to the front and 10mm to the back. You can change to LRP45 or LRP50 to get extra length of 10-15mm to the front. Not sure if they will interfere with the lens hood or cap. I don't have the lens with me. In which direction do you need more space?

Nick

nick fan
05-09-2013, 03:20 AM
We have semi universal integrated stop plate. It should work. I will check it out and let you know. I can offer you a free unit.

Nick

Hi Mosley,

Found a ready solution for you. Using our semi-universal LRP stop plate with plastic blocks with a total length of 20mm will give you fixed LRP reading of 2.4.
https://fanotec-public.s3.amazonaws.com/LRP35-RS1-NPP2.4.jpg

Nick

c0g null
05-13-2013, 08:21 PM
The plate used for Canon 8-15mm is LRP45X that extends 35mm to the front and 10mm to the back. You can change to LRP45 or LRP50 to get extra length of 10-15mm to the front. Not sure if they will interfere with the lens hood or cap. I don't have the lens with me. In which direction do you need more space?

Nick

Based on Thoby's calculations and my own experimentation, the LPP for six shots seems to be about on the lens hood stop ridge that is far forward of the red ring. On the U-R1, this gives me a solid connection with between 20mm and 25mm of contact depending on tilt. However on the RS-1 this places the plate so far back in the clamp that only a little over 15mm is in contact. This puts the vertical arm and clamp in the shot, but just outside the crop(and well outside most stitches on 6 shots), so it works fine other than me being nervous about dropping my cam over a waterfall or stairwell if the connection slips. I don't want the plate to be so large that it ends up in the field of view as I sometimes need to shoot full circles stills with the ring still on. Another 10mm forward of the ring mount would be about the max that would not protrude into the FOV at 180

On a side note, I've found a workaround for the lack of access to the AF on/off and range markings created by the ring mount. I keep the lens in autofocus, and just use back focus only when shooting pano. (and regular autofocus when using the lens for anything else) I tap the back focus once at a 1.8m away target for hyperfocal, or any closer target if I'm shooting in tight quarters. This works a treat as long as I don't accidentally bump the back focus button without noticing when rotating for zenith.

*** edited to add link***

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml